Time for a drive pressure gauge! I ordered a matching gauge [boost, 60psi] to the ones i have & bought some 1/4'' copper tubing & fittings to port into the manifold. the other end of the copper will attach to the poly boost tube that comes with the gauge.

Two things i'm not sure of,..... do i need a soot filter?? [ah62id], your turbo article in tdr dosnt show a filter,.. does that work ok? i'll prob. end up with a simular setup.........

The other thing, where is the ideal place to tap the manifold?

 

THANKS!! 

 

I originally had a filter but took it out for a couple of reasons. Soot is too small to filter, and it was always holding moisture and freezing on me.

I put my copper pipe in the manifold where my pyro had been on my stock manifold and on my ATS it is in a similar spot between 2-3.

For me a 60 psi gauge wasn't enough for the exhaust brake and would peg with the stock turbo on a hard WOT run so now I have a 100 psi gauge. I never saw much more than 65 with the stock cam but can see over 75 with the current cam and exhaust brake. My drive pressure while not exhaust braking is almost always a little less than boost.

This reminds me I need to hook mine back up. I took it out last September to get my touch mounted and haven't reinstalled it.

This reminds me I need to hook mine back up. I took it out last September to get my touch mounted and haven't reinstalled it.

 

 

Slacker!!!  

I originally had a filter but took it out for a couple of reasons. Soot is too small to filter, and it was always holding moisture and freezing on me.

I put my copper pipe in the manifold where my pyro had been on my stock manifold and on my ATS it is in a similar spot between 2-3.

For me a 60 psi gauge wasn't enough for the exhaust brake and would peg with the stock turbo on a hard WOT run so now I have a 100 psi gauge. I never saw much more than 65 with the stock cam but can see over 75 with the current cam and exhaust brake. My drive pressure while not exhaust braking is almost always a little less than boost.

This reminds me I need to hook mine back up. I took it out last September to get my touch mounted and haven't reinstalled it.

So,...filter is out. .....i guess you can always blow the line out if it plugs, OR!, just leave it disconnected! it'al neva plug than!

Thanks for your input [i knew i could count on you! ]     when my gauge comes [60psi] i will send it back & order a 100psi. that way i'll be good.

my gauge is mechanical, i'm not sure on yours, soot could be a prob. for me,   we will see!!

well,well,well i got it connected.   now the hard part! to not run in a tree when im trying to peg my gauges! 

 

i tryed a reg. air psi gauge, but at low psi it sounded like a woodpecker tapping on the 0psi peg!    ......now i have a 'bought' boost gauge on, havnt tryed this yet, but should be good. 

Here is the set up I would run on my truck if and when I do it. Cooling coil and the pyrometer all in one piece.

Mike you would need a longer thermo couple probe than the normal short ones supplied with the gauges to run that system, just an observation. There are several different lenth probes made but the trick is to find one that works with the gauge installed to make sure they are compatible.

Organic farmer, dafaq...................................................You trying to distill fine spirits or just cool a little hot air?  Could of just ran the copper all the way into the cab the way it looks.

Mike you would need a longer thermo couple probe than the normal short ones supplied with the gauges to run that system, just an observation. There are several different lenth probes made but the trick is to find one that works with the gauge installed to make sure they are compatible.

 

Agree and most long probes aren't long enough for that setup either. 

 

Just cheaper to drill and tap a second hole than it is to buy a new longer thermocouple. 

If they make the setup I'm pretty sure you can get a probe for it. Why make a part and not have a proper size probe?

What is drive pressure?  and What does knowing your drive pressure do for you?

If they make the setup I'm pretty sure you can get a probe for it. Why make a part and not have a proper size probe?

 

 

Looks like a hokey home built setup to me????

 

Why spend more money on a extra long probe when you can drill tap for free (assuming you have the drill/tap from the original pyro install). 

 

What is drive pressure?  and What does knowing your drive pressure do for you?

 

Drive pressure is the pressure in the exhaust manifold before the turbo. On bigger setups it can tell you the efficiency of the turbine (or piss you off on the inefficiency of the OEM turbine).It is also nice for telling you the retarding pressure of the exhaust brake. 

 

Most setups have no need for a drive pressure gauge. 

What is drive pressure?  and What does knowing your drive pressure do for you?

 

Drive pressure is the air pressure in the exhaust manifold pre turbo which is basically letting you know how much of a restriction the turbo has versus boost pressure which is post turbo on intake side. Ideally it would be 1 :1 ratio or a bit less drive pressure than boost, but once fuel and other mods are added which push turbos harder than normal drive pressure becomes higher and this in return causes higher egts due to restrictions in turbo exhaust housing designs.

Organic farmer, dafaq...................................................You trying to distill fine spirits or just cool a little hot air?  Could of just ran the copper all the way into the cab the way it looks.

 

yea, man, fine spirits,...thats like, when im smilin? ......             copper?, oh yea!, i just wanted to 'cool' my drive pressure, man .... just like my 'cool hose' intake is like, cool & stuff,..way cooler then your intake, man......

 

 

 

JOHN, is exhaust brake drive psi as 'bad' for the eng. as 'under power' drive psi?

No it is not since you are wanting to slow the airflow... unless your drive pressure/brake pressure exceeds the rating of the valve springs... it's hard to do on most setups. Really the only way is with a big cam and a non-regulated exhaust brake like the Jacobs or Banks. With my cam and Jacobs brake I can hit ~75 psi or retarding pressure but since I have 103# valve springs I don't sweat it. 

 

Under boost drive pressure reduces the airflow out of the cylinder which reduces the airflow into the cylinder. 

what are the stock valve spring's #?       I have the BD exh brake on my wish list!  possibly remote mount....

I have heard 60# and I have heard 75#. I know my Jacobs, OEM, exhaust brake would hit 65# without issue. 

 

I would look into the PXRB by PacBrake over the BD brake any day. I also wouldn't go remote mount unless you have to for turbo reasons. The closer the brake is to the engine the better. 

pxrb would be safe to use?

pxrb would be safe to use?

 

Yes. Just like the BD is it regulated to 60 psi max... but I think it has a better design. 

Looks like a hokey home built setup to me????

 

 

 

It's actually sold by a vendor I just can't find who again.

I have something similar.  It uses a longer K type probe.  I have it hooked up to the Edge and it works fine.  No unusual readings.  The temps read the same as the previous probe.  Sure it cost a little more, but I don't mind.  It looks good when I have hood open and I have not had one issue to date.  The gauge is a Isspro 100 psi Exhaust backpressure unit.  If you go with a PRXB your only regret is why did you not buy it sooner.  I love mine.

Edited July 29, 201510 yr by ABennin