Ok, so I bought this truck a few months ago. It was about 4 hours away so I had it shipped home after I went and looked at it. I got a great deal on it. The transmission was completely gone so I ordered a Firepunk Street/Strip trans. It also ended up having a burnt valve which was unexpected. After comparing pricing with machine work and/or just purchasing a new a head I went with a new loaded head from Promaxx. I swapped out the stock valve springs for Hamilton 103lb vavle springs and used ARP Head studs in place of the factory head bolts. Everything is good there.

So now after the transmission, head, starter and wheel bearing were all replaced I'm having an issue with engine error codes. I've got them listed below. I doubt all of these are actually bad but I definetly have an issue to address and probably a sensor or two to replace. Any ideas guys?

 

Codes

P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor signal

P0237 - MAP Sensor voltage too low

P0122 - APPS Sensor Signal voltage too low

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor voltage too high

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor voltage too high

P0382 - Intake Air Heater Relay #2 control circuit

Here's the codes and how to test each one to see if the sensor is actually bad. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins

 

Honestly though I doubt all of those went bad at once. Mopar1973man should join in soon and he's great at helping diagnose.

I would start be visiting each error code and do the diagnostics. Also you might try clear the codes with a code reader (not disconnecting the battery this does nothing!). If the code returns than you need to do each diagnostics for each code. This will isolate wiring issues as well.

  On 7/8/2015 at 1:55 PM, TFaoro said:

Here's the codes and how to test each one to see if the sensor is actually bad. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins

 

Honestly though I doubt all of those went bad at once. Mopar1973man should join in soon and he's great at helping diagnose.

I tried to get the guy who pulled the codes to clear them for me to see what happens but he said he wasn't allowed. I'll find someone today to clear them and then I'll recheck in a day or two. I'll keep the topic updated. I appreciate the quick response guys.

IS it possible that any of the sensors were unplugged while the ignition key was turned on in the run position..???

Codes will self erase in 40 warm up cycles but that is a long time to wait.

 

I highly suggest you just buy a bluetooth dongle and use you phone. Really cheap (less $100) and works very well.

http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/

 

ScanGauge II is good but not good enough for $160... The only thing I like about ScanGauge II is the trip computer.

http://www.scangauge.com/

  On 7/8/2015 at 2:30 PM, rburks said:

IS it possible that any of the sensors were unplugged while the ignition key was turned on in the run position..???

 

Also my thought too. Hence why you clear the codes and see what comes back. The reason why shop are not allowed to clear codes is because some areas have emissions testing and people would just clear the codes go test and pass with minor problems. So to keep the EPA off there tail they are not permitted to clear code. As a truck owner you can buy a tool and do it your self.

  On 7/8/2015 at 2:30 PM, rburks said:

IS it possible that any of the sensors were unplugged while the ignition key was turned on in the run position..???

It is very possible that happened.

 

  On 7/8/2015 at 2:32 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Codes will self erase in 40 warm up cycles but that is a long time to wait.

 

I highly suggest you just buy a bluetooth dongle and use you phone. Really cheap (less $100) and works very well.

http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/

 

ScanGauge II is good but not good enough for $160... The only thing I like about ScanGauge II is the trip computer.

http://www.scangauge.com/

 

You're probably right. I definetly could use one of these. The IT manager where I work has one of these. He's showed me the live data part where it shows rpm, temps, engine load and things like that but he didn't tell me you could erase codes and things like that. That's good stuff. Good to know.

 

Yes. It does read and clear codes too...

Yep I have a cheapo $15 old from china that I use.  I am have been wanting a better one though.  

 

 

I would say something was unplugged while the head was off or tranny out etc etc. 

 

Drive to autozone/oreilly and borrow their scanner.  Clear codes and see what comes up.  

 

 

 

 

My only concern is the voltage too high codes, shouldn't an unplugged sensor read too low?  No signal return should have the ecm reading 0V

I have a obdII blue tooth reader for Android under $25

  On 7/8/2015 at 2:51 PM, me78569 said:

My only concern is the voltage too high codes, shouldn't an unplugged sensor read too low?  No signal return should have the ecm reading 0V

 

No..

 

Its high volt code for disconnect. The signal line goes high to +5V when open because there is no signal ground.

 

Low volt is when the signal line is pinch to ground and there is 0 volts because of the short.

The OBD link is worthless. Who doesn't provide use on an iPhone these days?

Non-commies 

  On 7/8/2015 at 3:32 PM, joecool911 said:

The OBD link is worthless. Who doesn't provide use on an iPhone these days?

 

Yes they do... Get the MX series it supports iPhone.

https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-mxwf.html

Ok. So I have a little bit of an update. I had the codes cleared at lunch yesterday. The light wouldn't go off but the truck ran a lot smoother until I left for the day. It actually feels low on power like my edge isn't working. I'll fill out you signature in a minute by the way. Back to runnin like crap. I didn't realize it was this bad until I had the codes cleared.

I also swapped out the abs speed sensor in the rear end because my speedometer doesn't work. I've replaced it on two other trucks I've had with the same issue and it fixed it. Any ideas there?

Thanks for all the help

Check the junction above the drivers front tire.  All the wires to the rear of the truck connect there. I have seen that junction get corroded and cause issues like the speedo.

I really appreciate everyone's help. I took the day off yesterday and picked up some new wheels. It was a 2.5 hour drive each way. I still had the engine light and no speedo but the truck ran ok. I have to fix rails on my moms deck this weekend but I'm hoping to have some time to dedicate to digging in on these issues. I'm going to rebuild my vaccum pump because I have a small power steering leak. So I have to go through all that. Like I say, I just got her all together and unfortunately I don't have another vehicle to drive while I'm straightening all this out. I really want to try to either get my APPS straightened out and/or replaced this weekend. I think that will help with the driving manor of the truck. I'm going to have the codes pulled again hopefully tonight or tomorrow. That way I will know what came back and what didn't.

  On 7/9/2015 at 5:47 PM, me78569 said:

Check the junction above the drivers front tire.  All the wires to the rear of the truck connect there. I have seen that junction get corroded and cause issues like the speedo.

 

I will take a look at this for sure this weekend. I want to get that thing working haha. Thanks for the tip!

I had a break in the wires to the rear speed sensor just behind the fuel tank on my 98. Took me a while to figure that out.

  On 7/10/2015 at 2:56 PM, Royal Squire said:

I had a break in the wires to the rear speed sensor just behind the fuel tank on my 98. Took me a while to figure that out.

 

There is a connector on mine that looks kind of crappy. I rebuilt half of my moms deck this weekend. I'll be taking a look this week. If the rain holds out I will take a look tonight. Thanks for the insight.