I know this has been beat to death over the years but I have a question. I never considered XRF because I thought they were high priced but checking I see they are cheaper than NAPA and OEM Spicer. Are they any good?

I think all models have dana 60 fronts and automatic 2500s have dana 70 rears. Manuals and 3500s have dana 80 rears.

That is pretty much what i was seeing when I looked.

Dave, how is it on your lower BJ's? Did say you have a permanant zirk doesn't need to be removed?

That is correct. I have seen some other brands that way and a lot of others with the zerk pointing up. I did not know anything about the set up you had until it was discussed here. I also have a 90* fitting for my grease gun. 

 

I did a poor job of aligning the fitting how ever.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by dripley

Wow cool Dave.   Thanks very much. Saves me a lot of time/ frustration since age isn't kind dealing with with such tiny parts and little room.
 

Wow cool Dave.   Thanks very much. Saves me a lot of time/ frustration since age isn't kind dealing with with such tiny parts and little room.

 

you are most welcome, my friend, and I can identify with the age very well!!!

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by dripley

Well, I've finally made up my mind. Checked E-Bay and I can get OEM Spicer un-greaseables for $85 shipped, Thats cheaper than NAPA and the last ones went 125k. And the Spicer axle joint for about $45. This is for my early axle. I did not see a listing for the 2000 and up Dana 60.

 

Dave, be sure and let us know what you think them. This thread sure went beyond XRF in hurry. Still not sure what  am going to do, but I still have some time to think.

Some excellent information on here. I think it's helped everyone.

Older Moog good stuff. Newer Moog not so great. Spicer is good stuff. Just remember to grease them at least twice a year or more depending on mileage and conditions. Also don't push crap into your ball joints. Wipe the grease zerk off before pumping the ball joints full. If you do push stuff in it will act like lapping compound.

good to know about the 2 different kinds of Spicer joints. How do you tell if they are USA or not? I'm gonna ask the E-Bay seller for sure. I'm not putting china junk in for as much time as this job will take. What a shame for Spicer to sub out to china for a cheap version and do it on the sly.  Makes me want to just go with Napa now again. I always assumed Dana Spicer was Dana Spicer .

good to know about the 2 different kinds of Spicer joints. How do you tell if they are USA or not? I'm gonna ask the E-Bay seller for sure. I'm not putting china junk in for as much time as this job will take. What a shame for Spicer to sub out to china for a cheap version and do it on the sly.  Makes me want to just go with Napa now again. I always assumed Dana Spicer was Dana Spicer .

I feel your pain. I am counting ball joints to fall asleep by instead of sheep now.

I feel your pain. I am counting ball joints to fall asleep by instead of sheep now.

Ha Ha! Imagine how I felt when my 53 block cracked  . I do love this truck though and I'll let you know how I made out with the Spicers.

Ha Ha! Imagine how I felt when my 53 block cracked  . I do love this truck though and I'll let you know how I made out with the Spicers.

That sir is almost too much pain to bare. 53 is an evil number.

Pulled the trigger today! I contacted the E-Bay seller and told him I hear Spicer make joints in chia and state side. He immediately replied back and was emphatic that these are not made in china but in Canada as it says on the box. He then went on to take a closer up picture and altered the listing to say that these are the OEM joints just like the ones put in the truck when it was built. Got the axle joints too. They list for the newer trucks but the bottom appears grease-able? Ventures Truck Parts from Ogden Utah in case any one's interested. So we shall see. Now my next dilemma..... what brand of beer and band aides do I get for this job  

Beer I will leave up to you. Band aids=electrical tape and a shop rag, clean preferably but a little diesel is good for you.

 

Get us a picture of them when you get them.

Edited September 17, 20159 yr by dripley

Will do. I may even document the procedure if I can figure it out, as I wasn't able to find much in the way of a write-up.

Will do. I may even document the procedure if I can figure it out, as I wasn't able to find much in the way of a write-up.

Make sure you have a good tuna fork. Also pneumatic hammers help alot. Your on your own with the beer and band-aids though.

Heck you can always come up here I'll do them. For beer... Sure why not! I'll even supply the camping area. Ask JAG1 about that...

Replacing_Ball_Joints.pdf

Will do. I may even document the procedure if I can figure it out, as I wasn't able to find much in the way of a write-up.

Here is a right up I stumbled across a little while back. i did not have the benefit of any pneumatic tools when I did mine. Still managed to do it however. 

It is basically bolt off bolt on except that everything is pretty well stuck. So be prepared for some frustration.

Edited September 17, 20159 yr by dripley

Heck you can always come up here I'll do them. For beer... Sure why not! I'll even supply the camping area. Ask JAG1 about that...

 

Dave 110, this is a great offer, Just beware if Mike gets the torch. He as been known to strike a man in the cahones with a super heat ball stud in the past.

Dave 110, this is a great offer, Just beware if Mike gets the torch. He as been known to strike a man in the cahones with a super heat ball stud in the past.

 

(Shh!) Don't tell all my secrets!