Ok so I put a new vp44 injection pump on the truck thinking that was the problem. But it wasn't I turned the truck over and over and wouldnt crank. I unplugged the rear plug on the pump and straight wired the pump and cranked right up. Then I checked the plug pin # 6 and 7 gets 12 volts on the on position and 10 on the starting position. Pin # 5 doesn't have any voltage so it's not that. Anyone know what or why the electronics won't work and allow the truck to crank? Thanks.

So the engine won't turn over when engaging the starter?

Crank typically means when you turn the key the engine is rotated by the starter.

I am assuming you mean it won't start and run but the engine does turn over when you engage the starter?

Any codes? Did you mess with the cam sensor?

Yes the starter is rotating the engine. When the pump was straight wired the truck ran and idled but then the original plug is in the engine won't start up. I know the engine will run. But electronically I don't know what's not letting it start up.

Do you get a wait-to-start light when you kick the key on?

Any codes?

 

checked all fuses?  

Yes the wait to start comes on and goes off like normal. I checked the codes am I got a p1693 and p0230. But also the lift pump is straight wired. But last night we could get diesel through the lines at low pressure but not enough to start up. Then with it straight wired the pressure went back to normal an started up. Almost like there's something cutting power not allowing it to start.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/172-p0230-transfer-pump-circuit-out-of-range

Sounds normal since you have the lift pump hard wired. Hopefully Mopar1973man will jump in here, as he is our wiring guru

I had similar thing happen to my truck when I was messing with wiring for my lift pump, and What I figured out is sometimes if I played with key to much trying to prime the pump and didn't wait for things and shut the key off and did it few times in a row my fuel pump won't run after that, like the signal wire wasn't getting juice. I just ended up unplugging batteries for a good half an hour and then resetting apps just in case, everything came back to normal. 

I'm confused which is nothing new, but which pump is hot wired? LP, VP or both. I would not run with a hot wired LP. Use a relay and trigger it off the OEM wiring. Otherwise if you were in a wreck with fire and a cut fuel line you would be pumping fuel on the fire until you shut off the key. As long as you are not knocked out and remember to turn it off no big deal. But why take the chance? As far as priming the system after VP44 install there are many methods. The last time I did it the method on Blue Chips site worked best for me.

The LP is straight wired so I know it will work. But with the injection pump plugged up normally the pump won't work right. Not enough psi to push the fuel out. But when the injection pump is straight wired it works fine. I would like to know is there a way to test the wiring to check to see what he problem is? Thanks

Try reading this http://bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html it sounds like something in the wiring but I would have to let the article speak for itself. Hot wiring the pump like you did  is about halfway down under header #3 in red. 

Thanks I've tried that and the plugs still gets voltage but only like 10 volts instead of 12 when turning the motor over and pin 5 doesn't have the voltage.