Today i went out and popped my hood to check the oil and noticed my drivers side negative battery cable was unhooked like it came loose. I thought i fixed my apps when i reset it but i must have just forgot to put the negative cable back on the battery. So is my rapid studdering a bad APPS? or is it a bad alternator? I do have the p0122 code and it cleared while the cable was unhooked.  I dont wanna replace one and have it be the other. But while the negative cable was unhooked i didnt have any issue with my shuddering. Im kinda stuck until i figure this out.cause i cant drive over 50mph without it shuddering like crazy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, kimber

Well unhooked the alternator today and inhate to admit it but its ran fine without it hooked up.  I guess im gonna be headed to that alternator shop.  

At least you know the issue %100.  

 

sucks to deal with the parts stores on this.  They just don't understand the issue fully, 

When i hooked up my alternator back up it ran fine and then my check gauges light came on and my voltage gauge was on 8 like the truck is off.  

I assume thats because the alternator is failing and when i turn on the key without starting the gauge reads normal but when i start the truck it drops because then its not reading off the batteries its reading the alternator volts correct?

Ok update: i went and took the old alternator back to autozone told them whats up and they tested said its fine which its not.  Then proceeded to tell me its not charging cause my external regulator is bad which is my pcm right?

Got the new alternator in and it ran then when i.get driving for a few minutes its almost like the alternator shuts down and stops charging.  If i shut down the truck and start it it works again for a minute or 2 then the volt gauge drops off and my check gauge light comes on i have a video of it.  And if i let it just idle, it doesnt do it.  Only when i drive it ill put the.link on here when its uploaded.

https://youtu.be/FLzKYNi1FqA

I am frustrated to the max with this.  I havent had the truck for even 2 weeks. 

Checked codes got a 1682 now.

I really could use some help on this,  could one of my batteries be bad?

You are right, the voltage regulator is in the pcm. I noticed in the video that when you drove off the problem is already there. The volt gauge is only sitting a 8 volts and should be near the center of the gauge if all is right and the grid heaters are not cycling. Auto zone can check the batteries to see whether one or both are bad. If one is bad you should replace both. Have you tried any of the diagnostics for the 1682 code?http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low If your are electrically challenged as I am you could throw a battery temp sensor at it and see if that helps, they are not expensive, but you run the chance of buying parts you dont need. If one or both of your batteries are bad the parts wont help.

Hopefully we can get some advice from the more electrically proficient.

Yea my electrical knowledge is pretty dull.  How do i check to see if my grid heater is staying on?

Should my alternator have a regulator in it?  

What if i accidentally hit the alternator power cable on a ground?  Would that have burned up something or popped the alternator fuse?

1 hour ago, ruedger455 said:

Yea my electrical knowledge is pretty dull.  How do i check to see if my grid heater is staying on?

Should my alternator have a regulator in it?  

On a cold start, 40 or below I think they will cycle and pull your bolt meter down then turn off and the gauge will go back up. Then it repeats until the engine warms up. It is more involved than that but if they were cycling you would know it. From the way your gauge was looking you were not charging at all. There is no regulator on the alternator that I know of. It is in the PCM and it uses info from the battery temp sensor to regulate the output.

 

30 minutes ago, ruedger455 said:

What if i accidentally hit the alternator power cable on a ground?  Would that have burned up something or popped the alternator fuse?

That could blow the fuse. If you look in the PDC, on the fender well next to the battery, there should be a 40a fuse for the alternator. Pretty sure it is 40a. The underside of the lid will have a directory of the fuse and relay layout.

Just now, dripley said:

On a cold start, 40 or below I think they will cycle and pull your bolt meter down then turn off and the gauge will go back up. Then it repeats until the engine warms up. It is more involved than that but if they were cycling you would know it. From the way your gauge was looking you were not charging at all. There is no regulator on the alternator that I know of. It is in the PCM and it uses info from the battery temp sensor to regulate the output.

 

That could blow the fuse. If you look in the PDC, on the fender well next to the battery, there should be a 40a fuse for the alternator. Pretty sure it is 40a. The underside of the lid will have a directory of the fuse and relay layout.

 

The fuse was blown so i got a new one and am gonna try it.  Its a 140 amp fuse just for future reference lol

This could be a case of the electrically challenged leading the more so electrically challenged. 

Lol yea definitely lol

Its was the fuse lol 

Where can i get a good non reman alternator?  Im done with these autozone scrap pile alternators.  Its happening all over again.

I've had good luck sofar with Mechman, but they are spendy.  You can check out the article on them.  I would call them and request the 170A alternator I have and would also check, clean, and dielectric grease the wires I replaced with the big line kit if you don't replace them.  

If you have a reputable auto electric joint in your neck of the woods...personal conversation with the rebuilder can go a long way. We've got Automotive Battery and Electric in the Portland area. Maybe you should consider mail order with them?

Maybe We should start making them available here at moparman. All new rectifiers. 

Edited January 2, 20169 yr by joecool911

I agree lol 

I'll see what they'd cost. 

Another way is go to LarryB and buy the parts you need and rebuild the alternator yourself. There is just a few bearings, brushes, and diode pack. Most of this you can yourself.

http://www.fostertruck.com/brushes-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html

http://www.fostertruck.com/diode-pack-rectifier-bridge-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html

http://www.fostertruck.com/alternator-bearing-for-dodge-cummins-denso-alternators-large.html

http://www.fostertruck.com/alternator-bearing-for-dodge-cummins-denso-alternators-small.html