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UPDATE: Ok, when the head went on my truck for some reason the key was turned on a few times with a bunch of the sensors unplugged. When I had them cleared the check engine light wouldn't go out. Most of the codes went away but I still had one or two. I've had to fix so much on this truck I've been a little overwhelmed on what to do first. Everything seemed fine with that stuff so I've tackled a bunch of other things. But now I have a P0113 and P0382. The truck stalled at a stop light the other night and wouldn't start. I don't have any codes for the VP. So I don't think its that but I know its always hard to tell. This is one of those weird problems. But I don't actually have the Camshaft sensor code anymore like I did. 

Edited by Botlebruiser
wrong issue.

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If you've had the code you can bet money the CPS is dead. If you've got one that's where I'd start. 

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Yea, I need to replace it. I'm just curious if that could cause this issue. 

Bad crank sesor would absolutely cause this issue.

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Ok. I need to get it straigtened out asap then. See if that fixes my issue before I buy a new VP for no reason

 

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Yeah I'm glad that it is the cam sensor cause if it's the VP, that stands for Very Pissed :doh:

 

BTW, your fuel pressure should be above 14 all the time for max cooling to the VP.

yea, when my crank sensor went the truck wouldn't run so I am assuming that the truck needs both for some reason?

Edited by Me78569

Either one or both can cause the issue. The cam sensor is buried behind the vp and the crank sensor can be a pain even though it is more accessible. Seen alot of posts where you pretty much have to destroy the crank sensor to get it out and few where it just comes out easily. Seems I have read where some of the later models like mine have even generated a CKP code even though they dont have one.

I had to bend my dipstick to get the crank sensor out.  Once i did that it came out pretty easy.

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On 12/13/2015 at 3:26 PM, TFaoro said:

If you've had the code you can bet money the CPS is dead. If you've got one that's where I'd start. 

 

On 12/13/2015 at 5:10 PM, Me78569 said:

Bad crank sesor would absolutely cause this issue.

 

On 12/14/2015 at 8:16 AM, JAG1 said:

Yeah I'm glad that it is the cam sensor cause if it's the VP, that stands for Very Pissed :doh:

 

BTW, your fuel pressure should be above 14 all the time for max cooling to the VP.

 

On 12/14/2015 at 11:17 AM, Me78569 said:

yea, when my crank sensor went the truck wouldn't run so I am assuming that the truck needs both for some reason?

Ok. So I'm going to go through everything I can today. I'm going to double check and make sure I have fuel and change filters and bleed the fuel system. I'm going to replace the cam sensor and the MAF and IAT sensor if I need to. Can anyone think of an issue that would cause me to have an engine light for those two sensors? Like something else being unplugged or a relay being bad? My buddy owns a shop up the street and I let him go through my vacuum lines and put a new 4wd actuator in. I'm curious if he didn't "unplug something" or loosen something up while he was digging around in there. Let me know if anything comes to mind. I'll always post what the issue is when I figure it out. I appreciate everyone's help. 

Okay, given those codes (IAT sensor voltage high) and (intake air heater relay) you could have a couple issues. I'd start with applying dielectric grease to the IAT sensor plug in, and unplugging and plugging it in a couple times. Also check the wires to make sure nothing looks cut or smashed. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/147-p0113-intake-air-temperature-sensor-voltage-too-high

 

As for the grid heater relay, check the wires on the relays themselves. Sometimes the little guys will pop off if bumped wrong. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit

Go through both links and do as much testing as you can!