I have an 08 2500 4X4 standard shift with 455000 miles on it. This is a work truck so no mods other than the deletes with the smarty sr. The front control arm bushings are shot. I am wondering if I should stick with oem or go to some kind of after market control arms? If I go after market what brand and where to purchase them? I just started to remove the drivers side lower and found the cam bolt froze up. I am fixing to invest in an air hammer to see if that will push it on out. When that back one just slid right out I thought this is going to be a piece of cake. Lol! Anyway if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate them.

If OEM lasted 450k then I would go OEM again.   Hard to beat those numbers.

I known NAPA sell control arms fairly cheap. I'm installing a fresh set on a truck hoping to straighten out a front axle issue.

I was thinking of doing this soon as well. I've noticed that occasionally when coming to a stop I'll get a secondary stopping motion like somethings loose in the trans or front axle somewhere. I assumed it's probably just some bushing going back and adding some slop.

Just pick up a set of poly bushings for the OEM arms and a new set of cams as you will be doing good if you can get them out without cutting them then assemble with a heavy dose of anti seize and max out the cams to get max positive caster and you will be happy and save a few bucks too.

http://www.genosgarage.com/product/es-53142g/control-arm-bushings

Edited April 4, 20169 yr by Wild and Free

http://www.topguncustomz.com/c-101-short-control-arms.aspx?section=-19-44-

 

Price and time? Pushing out the old bushings would be a pain, but cost effective. You'll pay an arm and a leg for oem Mopar, but if they lasted that long...Tubular arms are supposed to be stronger but do you actually need added strength? I went with new moog control arms, haven't had them on long enough to say anything to longevity. 

 

Here is my current project. (Not my truck) NAPA OE Control arms and a nice set of Bilstein Shocks. So I would say go back to stock control arms easy to get and they lasted a good long time. This happens to be 2001 Dodge not a 3rd Gen but... Same job...

Edited April 5, 20169 yr by Mopar1973Man

41 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

http://www.topguncustomz.com/c-101-short-control-arms.aspx?section=-19-44-

 

Price and time? Pushing out the old bushings would be a pain, but cost effective. 

 

I have a ball joint press kit so popping those bushing out is a snap for me but one can use a ball joint press kit from o-rieleys or napa if they have a tool loan program.

 

Mike don't forget to max out the caster cams to the positive before buttoning it up.

1 hour ago, Wild and Free said:

Mike don't forget to max out the caster cams to the positive before buttoning it up.

 

Already done...

Thanks for all the advice. Now a silly question. How do you get the cam bolt out? Seems to be seized in there good. I would guess a sawsall with a metal blade?

Do you have any type of torch at all if even a hand held propane? I have had luck heating as much as I could that way if I didn't have access to an oxy actlelene torch, heat and beat and then let cool with penetrating solution several times and try working it back and forth with a long breaker bar ratchet. it takes time but I have always won without needing to cut them out.

Patience and persistence is key unless one just wants to cut them and get it over with. I like challenges personally.

put a nut on the end of the threaded section of the cam bolt, and hit it hard with a big hammer.  Make sure you unload the suspension before doing that.

Edited April 5, 20169 yr by Me78569

LOL. I get a chuckle out of this. Funny thing is I working on a 2nd Gen I was assuming had something bent in the control arms. Axle placement is odd. Well I stop by a local wrecking yard and the guys had the same issue could pull the control arms off an axle. Never the less the one side the torched it and still didn't move. Owner said screw it and bought brand new arms. I got luck on this truck all the bolts where lubed with axle grease so they came out easy. I will note that to watch the adjustment cam and make sure they are located properly (left to right side). This truck some had them out of sync left to right. Also during assembly all bolts got a shot of anti-seize.

I think I used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder and was able to cut most of the way through the bolt then twist the head off. Much faster than a sawsall. 

Also I had to go to the dealer and pay big money for those two cam bolts. I tried 5 different parts stores and the only bolts available were some generic 1989-2015 dodge cam bolts that wouldn't work. Maybe you'll have better luck though. 

Just pay the price for them from dodge,  they are pricey regardless.

looking at allmoparparts.com looks like OEM prices are $69.21 for the uppers and $107.46 for the lowers and they have a discount code for 5% discount right now, I just got an e-mail from them today just enter discount code APRIL5.

I would still personally just go with the poly bushings from genos for just a wee over 100 bucks and a bit of elbow grease to save 250+- bucks.

Napa had the control arms in stock so I just got them to save time. Still trying to get the camber bolt out. Tried one of those cheap harbour freight ball joint presses. All I was able to do with it was bend it. Lol! Sawsall I just ruined a few blades. Fixing to try the cut off wheel then the cutting torch as a last resort. Right now gonna take a break and drink a beer. 

Well I broke out the cutting torch and cut the bolts off. Orelliey,s had a set of camber bolts. Got everything done except the top one next to the exhaust pipe. That one looks like it's gonna be a challenge. I guess I'll have to drop the cross members. To drop the exhaust low enough to get that last bolt out. Bigger project than expected. 

Was just reading that. Tip other person gave was to reinstall the bolt facing the other way to prevent having to drop the down pipe again.