So a few of you know I've been dealing with smoke at idle on my truck.

Long story short every theory has been touched on.

 

Last action was redoing the exhaust valve seals for no change.

However I still have  a oil looking ride Comming outing #1 exhaust . It looks like oil .... but obviously could be fuel with soot.

 

99% this is cause of my smoke at idle.

I'm waiting to have a phone conversation with bill W&F.... but entertaining ideas of what I'm I'm for if I remove head.

 

Considering parting out otherwise.

 

Parting the whole truck?  Im interested in what bill says. 

13 minutes ago, CSM said:

Parting the whole truck?  Im interested in what bill says. 

Me too if I can get him to call slacker.

 

Yeah...  i can get near $20k parting out.

Else got to drop more $$$ on a $16k truck........

 

Decisions 

I assume you changed injectors already to see if that's not it. 

3 sets 

Sorry guys, spring time is crazy in the north land trying to get things cleaned up from winter and ready for summer plus work has been hectic as well as a 11 day vacation a month ago. have been in 5 countries and 5 different states in the last 5 weeks of traveling personally and professionally. I was the on call supervisor all weekend and had to work all day both days due to lack of planning from the planning dept.

Have looked in on occasion but have not followed anything in details.

 

Just from what I saw posted in the last few posts not seeing or following any of the threads or post previous leads me to say its a piston ring issue. Not a serious issue per say. pop head off inspect cylinders and pop #1 piston out and re-ring piston if bore and cross hatch looks good. Doesn't sound like a big issue to me.

Edited May 16, 20168 yr by Wild and Free

What are you running for engine oil?

I have seen oil usage from a cylinder clear up with a different brand of oil a few times, might be worth a try.

 

9 hours ago, Wild and Free said:

 leads me to say its a piston ring issue. Not a serious issue per say. pop head off inspect cylinders and pop #1 piston out and re-ring piston if bore and cross hatch looks good. Doesn't sound like a big issue to me.

 

So pop head.

Drop pan for access to rod mains.

Replace piston rings.

 

I would have thought that would show up more as loss of compression and blowby......rather than contributing oil out exhaust.

 

Got a few more questions when you have time ..... basically scenarios if I decide to pull head.

 

13 minutes ago, Wild and Free said:

What are you running for engine oil?

I have seen oil usage from a cylinder clear up with a different brand of oil a few times, might be worth a try.

 

Valvoline 15w 40 

If the oil wiper ring is stuck damaged carboned up ect it has nothing to do with compression, there are compression rings and oil rings.

I would actually try a different oil for a few thousand miles and see if it cleans up the rings before diving into the engine.

Bill when you get time give me a call  PM box.

Lots of questions/scenarios etc .......

 

I know your busy so no rush.

Video

 

http://vid1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20160514_100912.mp4

 

Whilst we wait on mr Bill

 

Anyone got ideas on how to determine if its fuel or oil leaking ? 

 

Fuel mixed with black soot ........

Or oil.

 

They kinda look the same

 

What's the fuel level in the oil analysis? Leakdown test?

Edited May 16, 20168 yr by banzaitoyota

Haven't done an oil analysis although I have ordered a kit from Blackstone Labs.

Havent done a leakdown but compression was done and they were ok.

 

Oil burn smells bad.  Fuel smells like fuel.  

There is a whole list of possible causes for this actually.

Bad valve guides "I know you did seals already" but if the guides are bad and or the stem of the valve is worn a bit it can still leak oil past things.

Bad valve seats

stuck, worn or damaged oil rings as I posted earlier which will not affect compression

Leak down tests are hard to do and do not really tell one much, one should have access to a nitrogen compressor to be able to do it correctly and even then they are not very reliable tests as the engine is not designed to hold pressure. This is where the compression test is the best option.

Head and or gasket issues could even be a block deck issue

If you were in the northland it is common as all get out to see this on rigs that sit and idle excessively in cold temps and they slobber just like your pic shows.

 

 

 

Another question? How much oil are you losing if any? Are you consuming oil and having to add?

 

I tend to agree with Bill it could be valve guides or the piston oil rings which could be weeping oil past. Like my own truck I get a nice blue cloud on startup now from the oil leaking past the valve seals. Not in a panic mode at all just live with it. As for showing up at the manifold mine doesn't slobber like that though...

 

Is it possible the valve guide are worn and with the extra drive pressure from Twin Turbos that it wore out the valve seals early from pressure stress?

From talking back and forth sounds like his oil usage of about a quart a month is from a pretty substantial front gear case to block leak.

He may ditch the stack for a normal exhaust to eliminate the coating of his rig with soot all the time and maybe dig into the leak a bit more and then just run it until other issues arise and go from there.

???

I wonder if it is a compression / blowby issue? If there is enough pressure in the crankcase then it would force the oil out through weak gaskets and seals. Thinking out loud...

11 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Another question? How much oil are you losing if any? Are you consuming oil and having to add?

 

I tend to agree with Bill it could be valve guides or the piston oil rings which could be weeping oil past. Like my own truck I get a nice blue cloud on startup now from the oil leaking past the valve seals. Not in a panic mode at all just live with it. As for showing up at the manifold mine doesn't slobber like that though...

 

Is it possible the valve guide are worn and with the extra drive pressure from Twin Turbos that it wore out the valve seals early from pressure stress?

Smoke is white/grey. No blue.

 

Actually the issue was always there just I figured it was a p7100 tuning issue when i got the truck

 

I like the idea of the valves/oil rings ......... but I'm becoming more and more convinced its fuel Im seeing and something wrong with the head/compression. Still not 100% sure how to tell though.

 

Compression is definately lower ...... like ~350 .... but its pretty consistent across board and truck starts fine and runs fine with no symptoms and normal blowby.

 

There was definately some head work and the block is oringed. But without pulling the head hard to know ....... and even if I pull the head ...... still going to be hard to know if anything done to block (decked etc) without having engine pulled and taken to shop. Could xplain the lower compression.

 

Open to ideas ........ but not sure pulling the engine (or head) is worth it at this stage until there are bigger symptoms. Might just remove the stack and go back to normal exhaust. Then the smoke at idle will bother me less.

 

http://vid1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20160517_090028.mp4

 

^^ worse in real life I feel

 

 

 

Who's got a good cheap regular exhaust recommendation.

 

Cheapest I could find was.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Turbo-Back-Downpipe-Exhaust-System-Kit-For-98-02-Dodge-Ram-Cummins-5-9L-Diesel-/191871317902?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ARam+2500&hash=item2cac6bf78e:g:SGYAAOSwHJhXNUgM&vxp=mtr

 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, JOHNFAK said:

Who's got a good cheap regular exhaust recommendation.

 

Cheapest I could find was.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Turbo-Back-Downpipe-Exhaust-System-Kit-For-98-02-Dodge-Ram-Cummins-5-9L-Diesel-/191871317902?fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ARam+2500&hash=item2cac6bf78e:g:SGYAAOSwHJhXNUgM&vxp=mtr

 

 

 

 

 

 I take it you're getting out of the truck?