I'm curious if this radiator support cross brace has to be removed to remove the engine? If so how do you remove this cross brace?  I've got the 8 bolts already lose in the picture. When I remove then the brace will slide a bit both ways but not enough to remove it.

 

I dunno Mike.  But I would think the hood would need to be removed to get the engine hoist in there, and to buy you more room to work also.

 

Check these out     http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/294640-06-engine-removal.html

 

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/4tstg-dodge-ram-2500-4x4-replace-lower-crossmember-radiator.html

Well I was on the right path then wanting to pull the front two frame mounts and prying the fender apart. Apparently there is enough room to lift the engine up and clear the oil pan to the cowl of the cab. I've only got a few more things to do and the hoist comes in. 

The hood does have to come off, but I don't believe the cross brace does. 

 

The cross brace does have to come out for a cam swap thou. Separating the fenders is how you pull it without cutting it. 

Got the cross brace out. It is a PITA to do by yourself. As for this engine I'm going to pull the head to get it out. Either the pan or the head. Head is easier for me right now and less messy. Re-installing I might have the shop eave the pan loose for the reinstall. 2WD 1 Ton truck.

 

The pan is a major PITA to install with the motor in the truck as it has to come out pretty far to get it on. 

 

Who is doing the rebuild? 

Ron over at Northwest Machine.

http://www.northwestmotormachine.com/about.html

As for removal I don't see how you can pull a full engine with the cab on there isn't enough room to clear the pan before hitting cowl.

Good choise. 

 

There is enough room to R&R it with the cab installed. IIRC it takes a bit of an angle during entry. 

Edited June 20, 20168 yr by AH64ID

2nd head is closer to the cab, and I managed to do mine. I had to pull the valve cover and run a chain across the head very tight.

Not much help but during a rad swap on mine I noticed the frame side of the cross was cut to allow that cross member to come out. They basically cut the front wall of the frame. Makes me wonder what had to be done to the truck. I also found the driver side engine through bolt loose. as in just the nut was hand threaded on the engine would lift the bolt out of the cradle.

How do you spread the fenders apart? Hi-lift jack between the rails?

On ‎6‎/‎20‎/‎2016 at 0:44 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

Ron over at Northwest Machine.

http://www.northwestmotormachine.com/about.html

As for removal I don't see how you can pull a full engine with the cab on there isn't enough room to clear the pan before hitting cowl.

Post some more pics if you can I`ve often contemplated WTF it takes if I ever had to R&R??

Sorry I don't have any pictures on the way out. I was told it will come out if you can get the chain set up just right. It will bare squeeze through the frame and cowling. I still don't see how being I took the valve cover off, #5 and #6 rockers and injectors out and still snagged #5 intake push rod and bent it getting the engine out as it slid the oil pan across the cross member. 

 

As for right now the truck is sitting in the yard rather gutless right now. The bed of the truck is filled with all the miscellaneous parts and pieces that you got to remove to get it out.

Just some idle thoughts on your project... Is there a significant difference in pulling a 3rd gen engine vs a 2nd gen?

 

I seem to remember following a thread from a 2nd gen owner who chronicled his whole project and IIRC his removal was pretty strait forward?.. He may have already had the head removed though.  its been awhile back. 

The engine is already out and being rebuilt at this time. Just waiting for the phone call to go get it down in Caldwell, ID.