I'm currently in the project of replacing u-joints and bearings on the front axles. How do I get the bearing housing off? (Of course I have already taken the four bolts out.. And the axle nut.) I have taken a solid hammer to it, including a chisel and 5 pound hammer. Any tips or tricks that you guys would recommend? 

 

Thanks in advance! 

If you are replacing the unit bearings/hubs, you can use a hub puller and a hammer. The puller may actually break the unit bearing in half.

 

The best way, back the 4 bearing bolts out about 1/4", use a socket and extension on the bolts and beat with hammer, or if it's rusted, use a socket and extension, have someone turn the steering wheel and the socket extension will hit the axle and pushing the bearing out.

The power steering mentioned above works great. I just replaced all this on my truck a few days ago. The first time about 7 years ago was the worse. I beat them silly and put puller on it and ripped it in half enough to get the knuckle off and press it out. Not the best way to do it. If they are the oe they will be stuck fast. 

 

X 2 on the Spicer joints. My originals lasted almost 375k miles. One failed and one was still good.

Where do you guys get your Spicer joints?  Rockauto wants something like $44.99ea + 5.99 shipping.  And yes, I already have some on the way. haha

 

Also, thanks for the confirmation that I got the right ones!  Only way I was able to find them on rockauto was to do a part number search.

 

Also, Also...  Does anyone have a good write up for this?  Reason I ask is I don't want to waste a bunch of time with pictures if there is already one available.

Edited June 29, 20169 yr by Cowboy

my old hubs were bonded to the carriages and the steering trick didnt work for me so i spent 5 hours with a 5lb hammer and heat to get the hub out. in the end i ruined the hub.. but when i put new ones in i did the antisieze grease to them so i wont have that issue again...

I dont have a write but just got thru doing it. It is pretty straight forward once you get the front end apart. You really need a good press to get them out. I used a ball joint press and it was just big enough to get around the joint. Be glad to share my experience but did not take any pictures. Depending on your vise an extra pair of hands helps greatly.

Spicer grease able joints or grease free? 

I think the majority vote here is for non greaseable joints. 

I just pulled off 2 front ujoints 14.5 years old with 377k miles on them. One had 2 cups dry with bearings broken into crumbs and two with grease in them. The other still had grease in all four and were tight. Both non grease able factory joints.

Mine were tight when I pulled them with 225k on the clock, I assume they were originals. I am still hunting a driveline vibration...

Alright guys. Just tried everything and still won't come off. I tried using the power steering method. And I even put the rotor on backwards and hit it with sledge hammer... Any other thoughts? 

 

11 minutes ago, Hockeyfm13 said:

Alright guys. Just tried everything and still won't come off. I tried using the power steering method. And I even put the rotor on backwards and hit it with sledge hammer... Any other thoughts? 

 

When i did my bearings i tried the piwer steering method and not a chance! 

So i put the bolts in with as much thread as i could. Put an old socket and extension and a big heavy sledge type hammer and gave a bunch of good whacks! Then i used map gas in a little propane torch set up and heat the whole bearing wear it meets the hub or knuckle. 

Then hammer some more. I eventually had to us a fat chisel to get it to budge!! Once it broke free a bit i worked it out evenly with yhe hammer. When it was a 1/4" out i sprayed the heck out of it with Mopar penetrating fluid and the pounded back on. Just kept working it and eventually it came off! 

When i put the new bearing back on i put never sieze on the face of it as well as the bolts as well as the rotor where it meets the bearing. Next time u go to pull it apart it will be easy. 

I screwed up my backing plate slightly but was able to reuse. If they would have had some in stock at the local dealer i would have put new ones on. I was able to bend it back and make it work. 

4 hours ago, Hockeyfm13 said:

Alright guys. Just tried everything and still won't come off. I tried using the power steering method. And I even put the rotor on backwards and hit it with sledge hammer... Any other thoughts? 

 

keep beating on it like it owes you money. and dont be gentle.

When my second went I had to pay somebody to do it. He came out to the job. I did not know you could beat something that hard without breaking something. He did get it off but he was not gentle at all and I paid him quickly.

Did you disconnect your tie rod so you can swivel the knuckle back and forth for the best angle to hit? The first time I removed mine I had a puller and used a hammer, joint effort.

As far as where to buy the non greaseable spicer u joints I picked them up at a local six states shop best deal I could find and they had plenty of them. If you do end up having to change the bearing I would recommend using Timken. Btw for what it is wort the power steering method popped mine out very easily sorry to hear it did not work for many of you.

Oh and another thing i didn't mension is i disconnected the TRE and i beat the living hell out off that bearing!!! Lol 

after it came off i though there's no way that bearing will still be good but it was tight!  

I ended up puttingbit back on and got another 20,000 out of it before i had to change it. 

BBD,

 

mine was more like yours....  I beat, banged torched etc...  bought the special ATC adapters for the air chisel... I eventually cut the ball joints, so I could get the knuckle off.  I used the 100 ton press at work....   It took nearly 30 tons to push it out....   Just helped a buddy of mine with his.  I brought all kinds of tools of destruction...  just a few taps and his fell out.  lol.  (his truck is SIGNIFICANTLY rustier than mine.)  I think its the luck of the draw. 

 

Hag

I did a little price shopping and the cheapest place I seen the Spicer SPL55-3X U-joints was amazon for $43 shipped.

 

I went into doing mine with a camera ready, but realized the hardest part about it was getting the bearing out...  And mine basically fell off haha.

 

I didn't worry about the spindle nut and left the whole rotor setup on.  It all worked pretty slick.  I need to do a buddies in the next couple days, so hopefully I can take some more pictures for the how-to.