Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

9 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

This is VERY strange, 2nd person to have this issue.   

 

Uninstall the app fully and load it from dropbox again. I will try myself.

Ok Just uninstalled and installed and it showed up, but like you said an issue, I don't even see option for betta now.

My head hearts, going to mix a drink while you figure this out and sit here and wait 

Edited February 4, 20178 yr by Dieselfuture

@Dieselfuture

 

Edit: alright I reposted the APK and it is working now, no idea what corrupted it orginally.  

 

 

Try to download it again from the windows 10 thread and load it you will see the right stuff again. 

Edited February 4, 20178 yr by Me78569

Maybe me trying to download it , I'll try right now. Thanks.

@Me78569

Ok I think it's working, I selected V2 Dodge 2001-2002 Version 2.2 is that correct? My truck is 02. I think I will be running ADR 2.2 Standard Fuel I don't see a reason for me to go above 3000 rpm. Is it what most of you run?

What is V2 Quadzilla only? and no more Betta option?

Sorry trying to catch up. 

Edited February 4, 20178 yr by Dieselfuture

I've got a odd bug that shown up twice now with this update. The iQuad app will crash and not connect again. So to recover you have to select another vehicle and then return back to the Quadzilla V2 selection again. Re-enter all your settings again and it will work for awhile till it crashes again I've seen this 3 times now. I'm not sure if its the APK or what.

Edited February 4, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

@Mopar1973Man The apk that was posted had issue, no idea what yet.  

 

@Dieselfuture the v2 quad only is my test truck for if I want to try something.  but if you load the current flash you should run the v2 quad only as it has the boost limit variable.  I run the hard fuel tune just because I need to test it.  If you have a stock valve train keep the standard fuel tune.  

 

 

Also as of the posted flashes yesterday all flashes will have a new sensor called " build date" which tells you when the flash was created.  we can use this to make sure we are all on the same page. 

 

Also the RPM limit now applies to canbus fueling too, keep in mind if you set RPM limit to 3200 fueling won't go to 0 just ramp down.  Don't think of it as a hardlimit. 

Oh man I'm bad luck, not as bad as Tyler , just trying to catch up on this and sure enough,.... 

haha No worries.  

 

@Dieselfuture let us know if you have any questions on the timing stuff, but I would just copy mikes tune for the timing. 

12 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

haha No worries.  

 

@Dieselfuture let us know if you have any questions on the timing stuff, but I would just copy mikes tune for the timing. 

 

 

My current is here...

 

Ha Ha, now I'm getting that good ole message where my stupid computer can't seem to find the module just says searching and then, yeap nothing there. I might have to go through the processes of installing and uninstalling driver for Quadzilla again. Does this happen still? I remember Tyler mentioning it before, on how he had to do it. 

Shouldn't need to.  Plug in the quad then click the flash and get info from module

Tried it few different ways, still no luck. I'm falling asleep, going to attempt it in morning. Thank you. 

So general consensus is to pull Canbus up to a reasonable level with regards to smoke? Does anyone think that this could hurt gas mileage one way or another?  I have the smoke tuned completely out at this point.

 

I had a thought this evening and wanted to see if anyone had anything to add.  It's to my rough understanding that the HO pump has a bit more timing advance than the SO meaning that fuel is actually going in sooner in most cases on an HO pump when compared to an SO, theoretically. It's also fact that the HO piston bowls are a bit narrower than the SO bowls.  If I remember right we are talking MM, but regardless when you combine that with the aftermarket injectors which undoubtedly have a spray angle similar to that of an SO injector, you can imply that the fuel needs to be injected a little bit later in order to get the same results that you would normally see in an SO truck.

 

Same result being, fuel being injected in the bowl while leaving enough room for the piston to compress and ignite in a similar fashion.  Now there is another layer of complexity here though and that is that the HO trucks have higher compression which would in a sense work the other way because with a higher compression the ignition will start much earlier in the piston travel.  Now when I say much earlier we are probably talking about micrometers or maybe even less but regardless it's something we have to compensate for.

 

All that to say that theoretically 19-20 degrees for an HO truck (HO pump and pistons) might be too much and it might be resulting in a less than optimal ignition and burn.  So now back to the drawing board.  Fuel mileage seems to be steady around 16mpg at 20 degrees which I think can be much better so I'm going to back it down to 17 degrees (0 on cruise) and see if anything changes.

 

TLDR: HO trucks = higher compression, more timing, smaller bowls.  Timing might need to be pulled in order to obtain better mileage out of an HO truck. Will let you know what 17 degrees does in a couple of days.

 

 

Going to 0 for cruise time will disable it.  Go to .1 or similar

I wasn't looking at some of my data logging when I was driving 75mph and my timing was at 25 degrees. You think I need to bring it down?

Yes that's too much for cruise.  Right at 21* would be better.

11 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Going to 0 for cruise time will disable it.  Go to .1 or similar

Will do.

15 hours ago, Carbur8tr said:

So general consensus is to pull Canbus up to a reasonable level with regards to smoke? Does anyone think that this could hurt gas mileage one way or another?  I have the smoke tuned completely out at this point.

 

I had a thought this evening and wanted to see if anyone had anything to add.  It's to my rough understanding that the HO pump has a bit more timing advance than the SO meaning that fuel is actually going in sooner in most cases on an HO pump when compared to an SO, theoretically. It's also fact that the HO piston bowls are a bit narrower than the SO bowls.  If I remember right we are talking MM, but regardless when you combine that with the aftermarket injectors which undoubtedly have a spray angle similar to that of an SO injector, you can imply that the fuel needs to be injected a little bit later in order to get the same results that you would normally see in an SO truck.

 

Same result being, fuel being injected in the bowl while leaving enough room for the piston to compress and ignite in a similar fashion.  Now there is another layer of complexity here though and that is that the HO trucks have higher compression which would in a sense work the other way because with a higher compression the ignition will start much earlier in the piston travel.  Now when I say much earlier we are probably talking about micrometers or maybe even less but regardless it's something we have to compensate for.

 

All that to say that theoretically 19-20 degrees for an HO truck (HO pump and pistons) might be too much and it might be resulting in a less than optimal ignition and burn.  So now back to the drawing board.  Fuel mileage seems to be steady around 16mpg at 20 degrees which I think can be much better so I'm going to back it down to 17 degrees (0 on cruise) and see if anything changes.

 

TLDR: HO trucks = higher compression, more timing, smaller bowls.  Timing might need to be pulled in order to obtain better mileage out of an HO truck. Will let you know what 17 degrees does in a couple of days.

 

 

From observation, I think the HO pump is approximately 2* more advanced than the SO pump. Nick and I deduced that from idle state. We "think" idle state timing should be the same for both the HO and SO models. Since the ECM is kicking out about 2* less at idle we think the pump is advanced by 2*. 

 

Compression wise, I haven't noticed a difference. I've got marine 17.2:1 compression which I am pretty sure is the same as the HO model. If I were you I would still aim for the 19-20* range but take into account the 2* offset. I think you're right in line going for the 17. 

While most of this is above my head I am glad to see a little discussion of the HO engine. seems the differences are minimal but so exist. I will be looking forward to more.

Having to "figure out" the differences is hard.

 

@Carbur8tr From what I have seen my MPG seems to be best when my canbus tuning is aggressive enough to to get me off the line without going too deep into the throttle, but avoid smoke.  I have a very light haze under heavy accel now.    However you should only need as much fuel as you need to keep speed, canbus % shouldn't matter in the end.

 

Now that Cruise timing is %100 on it's own I can also say that canbus % shouldn't matter, it would have before, but the change this week removes oem timing out of the mix.  

 

I would be very curious to hear your findings from this week forward.  I think that your Timing is going to need to be less aggressive across the board by 1*-2*.  

 

I would spend some time at 65 mph moving timing up and down at a given speed and see what causes EGT's to come down.  Using The cruise timing setting should allow you to do this pretty easy.

I had some time to drive about 40miles today on the highway. 

 

With stock my timing runs right at 17 running 70mph.

 

For some reason I get a random blip of 25 degrees of timing and my canbus drops to 0. 

Edited February 5, 20178 yr by 903Dodge