Let me start off by saying that I am in no way affiliated with Quadzilla or Diesel Auto Power. I was simply asked to test the new updates because I have big injectors, I'm familiar with the Quad, and I know the person doing all of the tuning. This person wishes to remain anonymous, so it will stay that way.

On to the good stuff!!!

So what is V2? Basically it's a way to gain more control over the tuning parameters, with an emphasis on CLEAN POWER. I've got big injectors, and I've driven my own truck enough that I can drive it virtually smoke free, but I have to be very careful with the right petal (even when set to stock)

Here are the custom tuning parameters:

Alright, let's start with the power levels: 
0=stock
1=Power Percent (Explained later)
2=Fuel mileage (Same as the old number 1)
3=can-bus only (Same as old number 2)
4=can-bus + wiretap (same as old number 3)
and so on to the maximum level set is reached.

So, as you can see the first 8 parameters (through "TPS CAN Minimum") are the same as they've always been. They will function just like they used to.

The next two have to do with wiretap fueling. The "Boost Pump Scaling" gives the %specified of called for wiretap fueling if the boost is below the "boost pump low limit"
As an example:(Let's say it's set on level 10) In the pictures you can see I have the scaling set to 0% until 15psi. This means I'll get zero wiretap fueling until I hit 15psi of boost. If it was set at 50% I would get 600us of wiretap before 15psi. 
This greatly reduces the amount of smoke output without reducing your peak power.

Next we have Power Percent. This is the "new" level one! Here we have the percentage of stock power called for at all times. This is perfect to use for emissions testing, letting the wife/kids drive etc. This is also another way to reduce smoke if you're wanting to be really clean. 

Next is boost scaling. This is the same as it used to be. Just a smoothing feature.

Next we have PSI% listed 0-17 in increments of 1. This feature allows you to set the amount of stock power based on boost. It allows you to ramp up the power from 0-17psi, effectively reducing smoke and making the truck more driveable.

 

Now for my experience with testing.

 

Level 1: With my truck stock, I can floor it at any time and create quite a cloud of smoke. You'd swear I have a tuner cranked, but it's not. With my truck set to 70%, I can floor it while doing 55mph in 6th and get as big of a puff as a stock 24V. Meanwhile it'll pull about 34psi @ 2000rpm and 40psi by 2500rpm.  It does make the truck a little doggy, but I could adjust the percentage up as I saw fit and still keep smoke to a minimum. This would be perfect if someone were to borrow my truck (never going to happen but you get the point) They could try to hotrod it as much as they want but won't be able to. I do think this would make emissions a breeze to pass, and it could be used as a safety device to keep the truck from being stolen. Essentially you can set it to 1% and the truck would only idle.

 

Now for the PSI%: With the power level turned up around 1500rpm I can stab the throttle (0psi of boost) and get nothing more than a slight haze until the boost picks up and the quad starts fueling hard. Spool is still excellent under these conditions, I just need to work on my top-end fuel command to reduce the smoke up there. This has made the biggest difference in CLEAN power. The quad is essentially rolling into the throttle for you as the boost comes up so you don't cloud the highway when you get on it. 

Now the "Boost pump scaling" and "boost pump low limit": The wiretap fueling is essentially it's "own" programmer. It doesn't follow the rules of the can-bus fueling. This was taking effect in my description above because it doesn't wiretap fuel for me until 15psi of boost. Thus why it's only a haze until 15psi.

 

Now, what I'm not quite happy with yet. Off idle, if I stab the throttle on level 1 I get a puff of smoke. I am told this is because of where the quad takes over and starts controlling things. It's being worked on and should be fixed soon. Other than that I'm very happy! I do have only 20 miles or so of testing, but this does look very promising. I'll be putting 50 miles on in the morning and 50 miles in the afternoon, so I'll have more info then.

Any questions post em up and I'll do my best to answer them. The future of clean power for 24V's looks promising  

Edited February 13, 20178 yr by Me78569
Changed the title for SEO reasons

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

I need a data log to confirm, but I think I might see whats happening...why is a completely different question, but at least I have a line in the code to look at.

Are all the changes ur doing have to do with the app or the quad program it self curious

I should have a log here within the hour... Whether or not I see it right away is the question

8 hours ago, Silverdodge said:

Are all the changes ur doing have to do with the app or the quad program it self curious

in the box itself.  

 

 

so 3 cyl temp issue,  I am all but sure that the reason why temps drop is simply that the quad is applying a slight delay to the tuning message and this ends up moving 3 cyl from the back 3 to the front 3.  All the data is EXACTLY the same in the log, but when I hit warmup off temps drop.   

real issue here is why is the quad doing anything at idle?   Seems like there was an existing bug from old quad days that we were unaware of.  

 

New beta tunes

 

Changes,

 

warmup temp is compared to save timing temp and they define a single variable for the wamrup enable.

 

HF

ADRV23HF.exe

SF

ADRV23SF.exe

3 cyl mode is still not generating heat, but I need to see if cylinders shifted or if the engine simply struggles to build heat if oil is warm? 

Cylinders shifted. I sed to see 800 to 1000 on 4, 5, 6. Now it like 150 to 200 because it's firing one 1, 2, 3.

I think what is happening is when Warmup "trigger it causes a ever so slight delay and causes the ecm to fire a double 0 command, thus shifting the 3 cyl to the front 3 cyls.  not sure how to handle this, or if I should I dunno.  

 

 

 

 

I went out and drove it hard.  Pulled really great to 3500, then power started to fall off, but it is butter smooth even to 3700 rpm. I am sure peak power was still at 2800 ish, maybe 3000 but it pulled nice.

 

 

10 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Cylinders shifted. I sed to see 800 to 1000 on 4, 5, 6. Now it like 150 to 200 because it's firing one 1, 2, 3.

Would that hurt anything

8 hours ago, Me78569 said:

I think what is happening is when Warmup "trigger it causes a ever so slight delay and causes the ecm to fire a double 0 command, thus shifting the 3 cyl to the front 3 cyls.  not sure how to handle this, or if I should I dunno.  

 

 

 

 

I went out and drove it hard.  Pulled really great to 3500, then power started to fall off, but it is butter smooth even to 3700 rpm. I am sure peak power was still at 2800 ish, maybe 3000 but it pulled nice.

 

 

 

11 minutes ago, Silverdodge said:

Would that hurt anything

 

If it's running on 3 it's running on 3. Shouldn't matter which ones!

 

For a remedy you could put a stipulation in that the vehicle must be doing >1 or >2mph for warmup mode to be engaged. 

No issue with it shifting cylinders, it's just firing every other cylinder, doesn't matter which ones.

heres a data log.....I don't know  if its worth a crud....

iQuad-2017-03-11-08.30.24-641325188.csv

Nice log.  

just a reminder to everyone, that the latest tunes are hosted here

 

https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/14-2nd-generation-24-valve-tunes/

 

the last tune resolves a warmup bug that might cause a knock due to too little timing after 120* ect at idle.  

Edited March 13, 20178 yr by Me78569

On 3/11/2017 at 3:03 PM, Me78569 said:

I went out and drove it hard.  Pulled really great to 3500, then power started to fall off, but it is butter smooth even to 3700 rpm. I am sure peak power was still at 2800 ish, maybe 3000 but it pulled nice.

 

 

 

Put a real set of injectors and a turbo in it. 

Edited March 13, 20178 yr by jlbayes

nah she runs too good now.  I don't need more power.  

I will corrupt you like @TFaoro is heading. rofl

10 minutes ago, jlbayes said:

I will corrupt you like @TFaoro is heading. rofl

 

 I can see it coming...  

nah p7100's are boring.  If anything h pump...but those are stupid pricey.  


besides if I was to try and put 700 hp to the ground my truck would fold in half....

I didn't say you needed a p7100 now did I...... 

so should I setup a go fund me account?  I am pretty sure the wife would kill me if I got a new injection pump before she got a 6.7

Better to ask for forgiveness than permission.

You can't corrupt me too bad! I've still got a weak transmission