Hello Fellow Mopar Folks!!

Man am I Glad I found this forum!!

I hope I am not duplicating a previous post/topic, but I am one puzzled Guy!

2001(Early Build -Actual Build Date on door sticker=03/2000) 2500 4wd with Vin 6 CTD,  Quad cab, 155 inch w/b, 47RE, 161k. Only Mods= Banks Big Hoss Tuner( #62782) that does NOT tap the pump wire, K&N air cleaner, and 4 inch stainless Turbo-back ehaust.

Oem lift pump and VP44 replaced in 2012 with 114k on the odometer

03/16  Thermostat (Stant 14289 190 degrees)

03/16  2nd lift pump ( SPECTRA PREMIUM SP1128 ) @ approx 155k, replaced fuel lines to and from tank with stainless steel

04/16 MAP Sensor    (Turbo Boost sensor is what the Mechanic called it)

05/16 Coolant Sensor @ 159k

07/15 THR123+Wire  (Throttle Position Sensor)

08/16  Blue Chip Diesel Low Pressure Fuel Warning Kit (shows fuel pressure from lift pump at Banjo Bolt on side of VP44)

08/16 3rd lift pump  ( Airtex E7153)

08/16 IAT Sensor     (ATS 23)

08/16 Fuel Return Valve (Mopar Brand Banjo Bolt on VP44 - Mopar part # 0501 1824 AA)

09/16  Fuel Pump Relay (Wells 19283)

09/16  DB Electrical  New, not Reman  Alternator (Part #'s: AND 0272, 56027221AD, 334-1409 56027221AD 13874, 121000-4481) which hopefully will be

installed this coming Sunday.

Regular fuel filter changes ( Hastings FF1260 filter,  5 micron as per Hasting Engineer stated during phone call to Hastings)

I have been running Wal-Mart 2-stroke oil for the last 20k or so

The truck starts and idles fine when cold, but I can put the pedal to the floor, and after about a 3-4 second delay, it will start to Slowly rev up...almost to redline if I let it.

But as soon as I let off of the pedal , even a little bit, it drops back to idle.

Here is a list of the codes I am finding:

3X Ignition Key codes: P0123, P1693

Low-Cost OBD II Scanner: P0237, P0123, P1689, P0216

The Banks tuner is showing  a diagnosis code that a Banks Tech Support Engineer called a CAN Bus Communication problem, but it has been that way for awhile, and the truck never seemed to notice it, other than the power was back to what felt like "stock", and the mileage was down from what it used to get when the Banks Big Hoss was working.

I have done the "Dielectric grease" procedure on the electrical connectors I can reach, but still need to clean all of the ground connections.  Plenty of diesel in the tank, and I have been in the habit of popping the hood open when I shut down....hoping to minimize the "heat soak" on the various computerized components. In fact My Brother kids Me that I am going to wear out the hood latch!

I am hoping that the new alternator may solve issues, but am hoping Someone has ideas on what is going on!

The Mechanic that replaced the Oem VP44 assured Me that it was a Good Quality Reman VP44, and I have had no reason to not trust Him for the last 13 years, but He passed away and I have no way of knowing who actually re-manufactured  the pump.

Doug at Bluechip said it was not one of Theirs...

Attached pics are of the Re-Man VP 44...maybe Somebody will recognize the manufacturer!

Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Ed

PS: I hope it is OK to mention Brand Names...Please let Me know if I oops in one of My posts!!

 

 

 

4 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

They are my buddies from afar.

 

Not to far if you show up in my yard with a failing VP44 to be changed...

26 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Not to far if you show up in my yard with a failing VP44 to be changed...

Pretty far after you chasing me with a big wrench for dropping bolts down the intake

I just told you that cost you another cold beer from your fridge...

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I just told you that cost you another cold beer from your fridge...

If you get sloshed and can't find a certain bolt don't come lookin for me

Hi Guys,

I must say that The Members here are Great!

"Just listening to them you know they care" is VERY evident!

Thanks Much everybody, and I really respect the wisdom I see here.

BTW, MM1973, I used to live in Kamiah, Id. which was not that far from Stites , Id. 

I promise not to show up in Your yard with an ailing VP44!

Sunday the 18 I plan to have the radiator, water pump, serpentine belt, alternator and Timbo put in.

What about an aux pump in-line before the Airtex lift pump?

Thanks,

Ed

 

4 hours ago, JAG1 said:

If you want to move out West I welcome that thought with Gods Blessing as it's better out here for mountains and wide open spaces.

 

But if you do not do everything  to your truck that has been discussed , it will eventually cost you much, like a big pile of doe, more getting stuck somewhere that all a mechanic knows is to throw parts at it. The fuel pressure thing is number one golden advice as everything else discussed. If you want a lifetime truck you want to listen to these guys. They are my buddies from afar. Just listening to them you know they care.

Thanks much for the fast reply!

As Big Blue (The Kids got a kick out of that name for the truck, so it kind of stuck!) is Our daily driver, being down has really put a crimp in life.....(Thank Goodness for the Enterprise Weekend special rate)

Really hoping to get the rig solid for a trip to Klickitat County, WA. in Nov.

Grew up out West and its looking like We maybe moving there!

 

I will be so Happy to be rid of the salt used on the roads here in Up State NY.

After 15 years here, the rig, to Me , looks like it is ready for the scrapyard!  But The Young Man who is an absolute Genius when it comes to practically anything with wheels and a motor, keeps reassuring Me that Big Blue has many more miles to run!

 

Speaking of the damage that salt does, has anybody used a product called Chassis Saver?

Not to wander of-course on the thread here, but has anybody used it, and if so, how did it work out?

 

Thanks again All,

Ed

 

Edited September 12, 20168 yr by DocH
I cant type

33 minutes ago, DocH said:

ut The Young Man who is an absolute Genius when it comes to practically anything with wheels and a motor, keeps reassuring Me that Big Blue has many more miles to run!

 

 

Absolutely... Few trucks have crossed the million mile mark... Then several have crossed the 500k mile mark as well...

 

It is so strange...Big Blue starts up fine, responds to the go pedal fine, but when You put it in D and start to move, sometimes it responds fine, then other times You can out the pedal to the floor and it Slowly revs, when You goose the pedal up and down, it wakes up!!

It will be interesting to see what happens when the Timbo is in...

Ed

As soon as mine started doing that, only two short instances did that happen, I changed over to the Timbo APPs. No problem ever since.

On 9/13/2016 at 0:17 AM, JAG1 said:

As soon as mine started doing that, only two short instances did that happen, I changed over to the Timbo APPs. No problem ever since.

Thanks Jag1 for the reply.

The Timbo just arrived today by 2day Priority mail.

Will check-in  back here with results!

Now, off to the Cooling Section of the forum to get Folk's recommendations!

Thanks!

Found this on Amazon...Williams Unit?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Thottle-Position-Accelerator-1998-5-2004/dp/B00B3KXF44/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

 

Kind of interesting reading the customer reviews and such...

 

Hope to put The Timbo in tomorrow along with the radiator etc

Edited September 23, 20168 yr by DocH
Added content

Looks like a lot more folks are making APPS sensors there also. I bought a cheap one on ebay to try it and it works but throws a constant 222 code. The instructions were mainly in Chinese I think.

This is a follow-on to what I posted in the "Thanks" topic!

 

The only code I am seeing via the 3-turns of the key is: P1693.

Using the OBD reader I get: 1689 and 234

My Mechanic Friend can't find power to the wire that supplies the Raptor....

Wondering if something in the main engine computer went by-by....

Thanks,

Ed

On 9/22/2016 at 9:10 PM, DocH said:

Found this on Amazon...Williams Unit?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Thottle-Position-Accelerator-1998-5-2004/dp/B00B3KXF44/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

 

Kind of interesting reading the customer reviews and such...

 

Hope to put The Timbo in tomorrow along with the radiator etc

 

Why all that...??? 

We've got Timbo's APPS in the store...

I will let My Mechanic Friend know about the Timbo Unit being in Your store.

I put a Timbo in My truck and am very pleased with it.

Ed

Seems like I remember a post about putting in a Relay Kit to power the lift pump...I can't find it....The post that is!

Thanks,

Ed

Here is whats going on now...has My Mechanic and I puzzled...

Any light would be appreciated!!

Now to try and find the Topic of how to set up a relay to power the Raptor as I think the stock ECM is not getting juice to the Raptor.

I can hear the relay click when I turn on the key, and bumping the starter still won't run the Raptor.

Running a wire from the positive terminal to the red wire of the Raptor runs it, but I seem to remember a way to install a relay kit to be safe.

Otherwise , She runs and shifts fine.

I just must be a slow learner on this Forum biz!!

Basically use the wire that comes from ecm to power the lift pump and use that wire to power a relay, and then the relay would power the lift pump. Make sure to get a relay that has a resistor or diode on it so when it shuts off it won't send any spikes in voltage to ecm. 

Unless your ecm power wire to lift pump doesn't have 12v now that means something is getting weak in ecm on that circuit from running aftermarket pump that draws too much so you can just wire a relay on toggle switch straight from battery to lift pump (won't need that resistor/diode ether ) but if you get in an accident lift pump will keep running untill you shut it off, and you'll have to remember to turn it on every time you start the truck too. But it beats buying a new ECM. Another thing I'm not sure about is I believe when engine is cranked to start ecm cuts power to lift pump for a brief moment so something inside vp doesn't get damaged from high pressure, but I'm not sure how valid that is. 

See if this helps.

 

If you are hearing a relay click when you turn the keyyou already have a relay installed similar to the one in @IBMobile,s post. There is no oe relay on the truck. The lift pump, stock, was powered straight off of the ECM, no fuse no relay. Also if you are hearing click it has power to the relay. If you can locate the relay the oe harness from the ECM should be plugged into it. Thats where you should be checking for power from the ECM. If you have power there your problem will be after the oe harness.