@Dynamic John, I have the BD flexplate, do I need to reuse the factory steel washer? The directions I got say discard, but BDs new instructions on their website say reuse? Is that washer just used for load distribution?

Anyone have any input of that steel washer?

 

I am interested in this as well.  

I always reuse it.

 

Like I mentioned in the other thread, check the weld that hold the ring gear on. I won't use BD flexplates anymore because of cracked welds and BD's not-so-helpful attitude about the whole thing.

On 11/11/2016 at 1:31 PM, CTcummins24V said:

@Dynamic John, I have the BD flexplate, do I need to reuse the factory steel washer? The directions I got say discard, but BDs new instructions on their website say reuse? Is that washer just used for load distribution?

Anyone have any input of that steel washer?

 

Did you torch the TC bolts?

10 hours ago, Royal Squire said:

Did you torch the TC bolts?

 

No, that's just thread locker from 3 different torque converters.

From an engineering aspect, if there is not a clearance problem with using the washer, I would absolutely re-use it.  

Make sure it is flat and that you torque properly. 

Remember the flex plate is NOT supposed to transfer the torque through putting those bolts under a shear stress.  The complete torque transfer is from the Compressing/clamping strength of the mating surfaces.  make sure the surfaces are clean and burr free, and that the bolts can easily achieve the torque.  (hand test the bolts into the end of the crank.... if you cannot screw them in with two fingers easily, correct the stretched bolts, or damaged/dirty internal threads.)   Make sure that the bolts do not bottom out or the shoulders interfere with proper clamping.  

 

HTH  Good Luck!

 

Hag

Thanks HTH.

@Dynamic Ever use PRW platinum series flexplate? BD flexplate had plenty of clearance with my DPC converter, I'm reading other forums that some people need an 1/8th bellhousing spacer for the correct torque converter to flexplate clearance.  https://www.prw-usa.com/product/1835910-platinum-series-sfi-291-rated-steel-flexplate

 

And yes, after inspecting my BD flexplate, there are some cracks on the welds. Not all the way through, but at least 2 welds have surface cracks...

I've never used the PRW flexplate, so I can't comment on that.

 

There are two flexplates that I use on a regular basis. One is a "stock-style" replacement stamped steel flexplate. It is a pretty nice piece, over twice the thickness of the stock one, and less than half the price of a full billet. The other one I use quite often is the Goerend full billet plate. It is a real work of art, and does a perfect job of centering the converter hub to the crankshaft.

 

Remember, the front of the torque converter (which also supports and locates the front of the input shaft) locates off of the center bore of the flexplate, not off of the crankshaft as is the case in many other applications. The more precise you can be in locating the flexplate to the crank hub, the more precise the location of the front of the converter (and, thus, the input shaft) will be. Goerend is as good as they get.

Shoot, I watched that video...see below. I already have the PRW flexplate and it is loose around the hub/pilot, the BD is tight. 

 

 

The BD should be tight on the crank since it's a machined billet piece. But, if the ring gear welds are cracking (cracked), it should not be used.

Can a person add some good welds?

34 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Can a person add some good welds?

If I already owned it, and it has already been in service, that's what I would do. But, if I had just spent $400 on it, and pulled it out of the box only to see cracked welds, I would send it back. The problem is that the new one you would receive would likely be the same thing (after having to either wait until they received the defective one to "inspect" it and send you a new one, or buy a second one and have them refund your money for the first one when they received it...eventually). Been there, done that with them...

 

Or, you can just buy a Goerend for less money and have it be good right out of the box.

That's a very sad excuse for a weld!

On 11/14/2016 at 11:45 AM, Haggar said:

From an engineering aspect, if there is not a clearance problem with using the washer, I would absolutely re-use it.  

Make sure it is flat and that you torque properly. 

Remember the flex plate is NOT supposed to transfer the torque through putting those bolts under a shear stress.  The complete torque transfer is from the Compressing/clamping strength of the mating surfaces.  make sure the surfaces are clean and burr free, and that the bolts can easily achieve the torque.  (hand test the bolts into the end of the crank.... if you cannot screw them in with two fingers easily, correct the stretched bolts, or damaged/dirty internal threads.)   Make sure that the bolts do not bottom out or the shoulders interfere with proper clamping.  

 

HTH  Good Luck!

 

Hag

I don't think there's enough friction between the flex plate and the crankshaft to make the force rely solely on friction. If you have 1200 ft-lbs of torque I really don't see friction being able to hold that. Maybe I'll dust off some old books and run some calculations for the fun of it  

10 hours ago, Dynamic said:

If I already owned it, and it has already been in service, that's what I would do. But, if I had just spent $400 on it, and pulled it out of the box only to see cracked welds, I would send it back. The problem is that the new one you would receive would likely be the same thing (after having to either wait until they received the defective one to "inspect" it and send you a new one, or buy a second one and have them refund your money for the first one when they received it...eventually). Been there, done that with them...

 

Or, you can just buy a Goerend for less money and have it be good right out of the box.

 

Goerends are on backorder, but that's what I'll be getting. Here's another $350 for a flexplate... I don't want to risk welding or using the PRW because of the pilot bushing slop. What would be the downside of welding? Possible warping if done poorly? Balance? Wish I had a 5 speed

 

5 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

 

Goerends are on backorder, but that's what I'll be getting. Here's another $350 for a flexplate... I don't want to risk welding or using the PRW because of the pilot bushing slop. What would be the downside of welding? Possible warping if done poorly? Balance? Wish I had a 5 speed

 

Small fast welds of approximate equal size "should" be okay. The damper has to be good for something right

Man, I would just add a good weld of equivalent size in between the ones that are already there and call it good if I already owned the flexplate. As much as I like and use the Goerend flexplate, I would not throw away that BD just because of the weld issue. But, like I said, that is assuming that the BD plate has already been used. If it were a brand new one, fresh out of the box, I would demand a properly welded piece or, more practically, send it back and buy the Goerend.

 

I didn't know that Dave was backordered on his flexplates. I just bought one to use on Russ Roth's build last week. I must have gotten one of his last ones...

I'll try to get my money back or sell it. If anyone wants to weld it up, let me know. $250 shipped.

Edited November 22, 20168 yr by CTcummins24V

@CSM  might want it.

 

 

On 11/18/2016 at 1:24 PM, TFaoro said:

That's a very sad excuse for a weld!

I don't think there's enough friction between the flex plate and the crankshaft to make the force rely solely on friction. If you have 1200 ft-lbs of torque I really don't see friction being able to hold that. Maybe I'll dust off some old books and run some calculations for the fun of it  

 

I like Shigley, I do have a few others around if you need some more reference. He did a lot of the best modern research on bolted connections.  You are looking for "Slip critical" calculations.  It will get you in the ball park.

 

 

HTH

 

Hag