Good evening everyone! My name is Conner. I currently live in Rigby ID with my wife, newborn son (1st) our dog Renegade, and 3 ducks (wife will always be a farm girl). I just bought my first truck this last weekend and I decided I would do it right the first time so I bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Long bed extended cab with the 5.9 cummins 6spd Manual with 208k on it. The list of things done to it are as follows. 

Leveling kit

285/75R17 Toyo Open Country M/T on raceline raptor rims

gooseneck hitch

bumper hitch

towing package (helper springs)

trailer brakes

S&B cold air intake

80hp injectors

Quadzilla Adrenaline with the Pulse V2 Monitor

FASS Titanium 95gph fuel system

unfortunately it has a homemade stack on it (will be the first thing to go) so it's stock 3inch exhaust into 4 inch exhaust into 8inch stack

i love the truck so far. It has a few things it needs right now like fuel filters (it stutters on acceleration mostly when it's cold so I'm hoping that takes care of it) and it needs a motor mount bolt on the passenger side and possibly a pitman arm. Other than that it runs and drives great and I love having a great pickup to drive. I'm a mechanic at a small shop here in rigby so I've been turning wrenches for about a year now. We charge $85 an hour and with the amount of information i have intensely scoured over on this site over the last few days I feel like I owe you guys thousands of dollars for this invaluable information. From what I can tell with all of the custom tunes though it seems like I'm at a loss being stuck with the old pulse control module. I returned the Quad to its defaults so I can start from square one. My personal goal is to find a tune similar to what @Mopar1973Man figured up where he was at a little over 300 miles on half a tank. That sounds like a dream to me. This also coming from having just sold my beloved jeep where I could only dream of getting 250 miles on a full tank. So hopefully I can get a few questions answered and I look forward to getting to know you guys. A few of you I feel like I already know because I've spent quite a few hours going through threads and threads on the Quad. And so the fun begins! Thanks! 

 

Welcome to the farm. Good looking truck. I would have to leave the quad to thems that knows it.

When you can ditch the pv screen and get the iquad dongle.  It is %100 compatible with the box under the hood and you will open up a world of tuning.

@Me78569 so it is true that I don't really have the ability to build a custom tune with the old controller? Darn  @dripley thanks! First thing I did was the bedliner on the rocker panels to arrest the rust. Next will be a turbo back exhaust to get rid of the stack. Probably 5 inch. She's in great shape for the year! 

Pulse screen custom tuning variables are as follows

Quote

Power Level:
Max Pump Stretch: How much wiretap
TPS Pump Min: min TPS for wiretap
TPS Pump Max : max point in the wiretap map
TPS Can Min: min point for canbus fueling
TPS Can Max: max point for the canbus map
Timing: timing over stock 
Timing Scale:  Doesn;t really work lol

Boost Scale:   how fast the maps ramp up

 

 

 

Custom Tuning variables for the Iquad with V2 tuning

 

Quote

 

Power Levels:

 

Timing

Fuel Load Timing:

Low PSI Timing Reduct:

Timing Reduct Scaling:

Cruise Timing Adv:

Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit:
 

Timing vs rpm

1500:

2000:

2500:

3000:

Timing Max:
 

Wiretap

Pump Stretch:

TPS Pump max:

TPS Pump Min

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 

 

Boost Scaling:

 

RPM Limit:

 

Power Reduction:

 

0 PSI %:

1 PSI %:

2 PSI %:

3 PSI %:

4 PSI %:

5 PSI %:

6 PSI %:

7 PSI %:

8 PSI %:

9 PSI %:

10 PSI %:

11 PSI %:

12 PSI %:

13 PSI %:

14 PSI %:

15 PSI %:

16 PSI %:

18 PSI %:

20 PSI %:

22 PSI %:

24 PSI %:

26 PSI %:

28 PSI %:

30 PSI %:

 

 

 

the big perk of the V2 tuning is being able to tune fueling commands lower than OEM to make your truck run %100 clean.

So it looks like I'll just go ahead and leave it alone for now, maybe run it in level one which is supposed to be mileage and save up for the new controller. I'll keep reading through the tuning articles so that way, when the time comes, I won't have to bug you guys with too many questions and hopefully be able to contribute. Excited to be a cummins owner! 

7 hours ago, Rigby5.9 said:

Next will be a turbo back exhaust to get rid of the stack. Probably 5 inch.

 

4" is plenty... 5" is overkill. I'm still running 3" without a single issue.

 

7 hours ago, Rigby5.9 said:

So it looks like I'll just go ahead and leave it alone for now, maybe run it in level one which is supposed to be mileage and save up for the new controller.

 

Mileage tuner... LOL I'm still fighting to figure out the best mileage tune. I do know that IAT temperature is very important to that MPG number. Always doing better on hot days than cold days. Timing plays a roll too but how much and when is the questions I'm still trying to math out. 

 

For MPG reasons you want an IAT temperature between 100 and 140*F for optimal running. Cold Air when it falls below 80*F IAT it takes a rather good hit to the numbers. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

4" is plenty... 5" is overkill. I'm still running 3" without a single issue.

 

 

Mileage tuner... LOL I'm still fighting to figure out the best mileage tune. I do know that IAT temperature is very important to that MPG number. Always doing better on hot days than cold days. Timing plays a roll too but how much and when is the questions I'm still trying to math out. 

 

For MPG reasons you want an IAT temperature between 100 and 140*F for optimal running. Cold Air when it falls below 80*F IAT it takes a rather good hit to the numbers. 

For me right now the mileage I'm getting is night and day difference from the jeep I had. Normal when I went to school and back in rexburg I would expect to use at least an 1/8th of a tank of gas in the 30 mile round trip. Yesterday was my first time going in the truck and when I got on the highway my miles to empty said 360. When I hit the exit in rexburg it said 369 and it was only at 363 by the time I ran around town and even got back to rigby. I love not having to watch the fuel gauge move every time I drive it 

Glad to have you on board!

SO with regards to adding two cycle oil to the diesel. I filled the tank on Saturday afternoon and it's still showing basically a full tank. Should I wait until I fill up again to add 2 cycle or should I add some now to work it through the system? 

meh doesn't matter either way.

I'm sorta anal when it comes to my 2stroke. I'd wait until I topped off then add the 34-35oz (however many gallon tank you have) to make sure I got as much i there as possible. Otherwise you'll always be slightly under the ratio overall.

Ok. I'm going to have to figure out what my ratio needs to be. According to the previous owner, when he had the FASS titanium installed he didn't want them to drop the tank so the draw tube doesn't reach the bottom of the tank. He said if I let it get to "45 miles to empty" the truck will shut off and it will be horrible to get to start again. Figures. When I order the iquad will I need to re flash the chip itself as well? 

 

Yea you need to flash the box. the Iquad is only the window into the box.

Edited June 1, 20177 yr by Me78569

I thought so. I'll order the iquad soon and wait to flash until it's close to being here. Anyone know why it stutters when in warm up mode? I have it set to warm up to 125 but even then I still leave it set on zero. I have new fuel filters to try but don't know if there's another direction I should be looking. It feels like gaps in acceleration and you can hear the motor drop in addition to feeling it. 

Might check the AC noise from the alternator. I just did a service call to a local Dodge owner with the same problem and it was a dying Bank's tuner that was killed off by excessive AC noise. This case closely fits what you're saying but I'm not 100% sure your gaps are the same. Try unhooking the Quadzilla and testing again. Then also unplug the field lead and test drive again.

Edited June 2, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

I will try unhooking it before I head to work this morning. I don't quite know what the field lead is. I know unhooking the quad is just the big connector on the side. Thanks @Mopar1973Man I will let you know what happens! Hopefully changing the filters tonight as well. 

2 minutes ago, Rigby5.9 said:

I will try unhooking it before I head to work this morning. I don't quite know what the field lead is. I know unhooking the quad is just the big connector on the side. Thanks @Mopar1973Man I will let you know what happens! Hopefully changing the filters tonight as well. 

 

Field lead is the green and blue wires on the back of the alternator.

 

As for the Quadzilla your wrong... You need to unplug the CANBus, Unplug the wire tap, then unplug and reconnect the MAP sensor back to stock. If you just unplug the big connector you end up with error codes and limp mode.

Ok I will try that

Edited June 2, 20177 yr by Rigby5.9