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Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I get the head off without removing studs looks pretty close. I will take the head to machine shop to surface and maybe even check for cracks, since I heard 24 valve heads like to crack sometimes. Will probably do a valve job and new seals at the same time. Not sure about ringing the head. The T at the back of the head, what's the best way going about it. Thanks for any advice. I will probably be lining up parts for a while and keep driving the truck,  unless it gets real bad or just blows out. I'm guessing there is an oil passage somewhere up front, just not sure how it's getting pushed out, oil pump pressure? Does it have something to do with coolant, I don't think I'm using any, maybe a little I had to put about a quart in the other day, will keep an eye on it. 

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Edited by Dieselfuture

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  • The people that tell you to sell old and buy new know nothing about fixing vehicles nor do they work on them. I work on hybrids and electrics. There is a huge disconnect between the end user and the v

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Alright guys and gals, got my turbo today. I'm giving it 9 out of 10 and this is before driving the truck. Came with cnc machined beer opener. On first glance it looks good, on closer observation I've

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Trying to get valves out so I can take this thing in to shop. What's the best way to release keepers, I usually slightly tap on them and they  come apart, but these are stubborn. @TFaoro @jlbayes @trr

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  • Owner
1 minute ago, trreed said:

What I would do is go find a used Borg Warner S362 for around the same price and not look back.  But, you wouldn't be able to use your exhaust brake with a 4" outlet

 

That's why I compromised and did the HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12). I was able to get really close to the 62/68/12 specs and still keep my exhaust brake also still keep my 3" exhaust yet.

  • Author
4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 Being I'm running stock injectors against a 60/60/12 HX35/40 hybrid I can say it very laggy.

Are you going to put your 75hp back in? Would that fix the lag. I got a set of 75 I'm planning on putting in, had them for a while now, been gone through by dap when they couldn't take em as a core when I got my 60s I had 75s rebuild. But they are 8 hole not sure vco or sac.

 

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That's why I compromised and did the HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12). I was able to get really close to the 62/68/12 specs and still keep my exhaust brake also still keep my 3" exhaust yet.

Ideally that's probably what I need, I was just thinking if I'm buying new parts, should I go to 62 inducer or is too much. I suppose I can get 100hp injectors, but also want a good spool and mpg and lower egts, man am I asking a lot. 

4 hours ago, TFaoro said:

The spray pattern looks concerning, unless you wiped some pistons and didn't wipe some.

Seemed like front and back cylinders were not as dirty and had fuel on all of them guessing from pulling injectors, so yes I wiped them all down but front and back were much cleaner after wiping. 

 

4 hours ago, TFaoro said:

I would stay away from ebay for turbo parts unless it's a reputable company selling on ebay. Are you going with more power? Bigger injectors? Currently having excessive heat issues?

Mine were much worse, but they're still working for now.

I'll stay away unless it's genuine parts. I'd like a bit more power nothing like you but want a decent set up, at least a good hybrid that I can manage egts when towing and still have decent mpg. Just didn't know if 62 inducer is too much. I don't think I have excessive heat but it can get pretty warm.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Stock turbo is fine for +60 HP injectors. 62/68/12 wouldn't be bad upgrade if he's running a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner with his +60 HP injectors.

So with  75hp and quad I should be ok with 62 I'm guessing

@trreed thanks for pointing out the housing, but originally I thought about getting a non gated housing and drive by guage and quad set limits. You guys talked me in to staying with 12cm as I don't need a race truck but something dependable, lol, as I'm always fixing something on it. Yes I wouldn't mind a working wastegate set at 35psi or so but last time I freed mine up in few months it quit working. So if 10 blade needs machining then a 35/40 hybrid like @Mopar1973Man has, is exhaust housing and turbine same as mine now? And only the front housing and turbine is different?  I understand I need to machine bearing housing for bigger turbine but not sure what about exhaust housing. 

Not sure about my spray pattern, what's it mean to you guys,  too much timing not enough? 

 

75 HP injectors would be a good match for a 35/40 hybrid, then use the quad to fine tune it.  

The exhaust housing and turbine remain the same size as yours (60mm turbine, 12cm housing) in a hybrid setup like @Mopar1973Man's.  The reason I would recommend a wastegate with a 35/40 hybrid is to prevent overspeeding the shaft, as the bigger compressor wheel extends the compressor map and the turbine wheel becomes the limiting factor.

 I would not, however, recommend something like a 62/60/12.  The bigger compressor wheel could cause pretty bad barking, and with a 7mm shaft, could lead to a bad time.  If you're set on a 62mm inducer, then I'd look into exhaust housing machining to fit a 65 or 68mm turbine. 

1 hour ago, trreed said:

75 HP injectors would be a good match for a 35/40 hybrid, then use the quad to fine tune it.  

The exhaust housing and turbine remain the same size as yours (60mm turbine, 12cm housing) in a hybrid setup like @Mopar1973Man's.  The reason I would recommend a wastegate with a 35/40 hybrid is to prevent overspeeding the shaft, as the bigger compressor wheel extends the compressor map and the turbine wheel becomes the limiting factor.

 I would not, however, recommend something like a 62/60/12.  The bigger compressor wheel could cause pretty bad barking, and with a 7mm shaft, could lead to a bad time.  If you're set on a 62mm inducer, then I'd look into exhaust housing machining to fit a 65 or 68mm turbine. 

Settle down Tater.....

 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Are you going to put your 75hp back in? Would that fix the lag. I got a set of 75 I'm planning on putting in, had them for a while now, been gone through by dap when they couldn't take em as a core when I got my 60s I had 75s rebuild. But they are 8 hole not sure vco or sac.

 

Ideally that's probably what I need, I was just thinking if I'm buying new parts, should I go to 62 inducer or is too much. I suppose I can get 100hp injectors, but also want a good spool and mpg and lower egts, man am I asking a lot. 

Seemed like front and back cylinders were not as dirty and had fuel on all of them guessing from pulling injectors, so yes I wiped them all down but front and back were much cleaner after wiping. 

 

I'll stay away unless it's genuine parts. I'd like a bit more power nothing like you but want a decent set up, at least a good hybrid that I can manage egts when towing and still have decent mpg. Just didn't know if 62 inducer is too much. I don't think I have excessive heat but it can get pretty warm.

So with  75hp and quad I should be ok with 62 I'm guessing

@trreed thanks for pointing out the housing, but originally I thought about getting a non gated housing and drive by guage and quad set limits. You guys talked me in to staying with 12cm as I don't need a race truck but something dependable, lol, as I'm always fixing something on it. Yes I wouldn't mind a working wastegate set at 35psi or so but last time I freed mine up in few months it quit working. So if 10 blade needs machining then a 35/40 hybrid like @Mopar1973Man has, is exhaust housing and turbine same as mine now? And only the front housing and turbine is different?  I understand I need to machine bearing housing for bigger turbine but not sure what about exhaust housing. 

Not sure about my spray pattern, what's it mean to you guys,  too much timing not enough? 

 

@jlbayes can probably talk more to the injector / piston dirtiness.

 

14 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Settle down Tater.....

At least I didn't say 67/67..  Gotta give me a little credit for that!

  • Author
2 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Settle down Tater.....

 

@jlbayes can probably talk more to the injector / piston dirtiness.

 

So that's who Tater is.... I was kinda wondering who to ask about milling my housing 

His name is Austin Tate, out of Ohio. I am not him lol.

  • Author

Trying to get valves out so I can take this thing in to shop. What's the best way to release keepers, I usually slightly tap on them and they  come apart, but these are stubborn. @TFaoro @jlbayes @trreed59641eec821c9_2017-07-1019_39_24.jpg.bce6e5e3cff248e5ebf55007d34fda5a.jpg

Nevermind guys I ended up setting it's on the concrete floor on a towel and stood on top of it they all came out that way. Thanks either way.

Edited by Dieselfuture

Why are you pulling the valves?????

Edited by jlbayes

  • Author
4 hours ago, jlbayes said:

Why are you pulling the valves?????

To change seals, check guides  and magnaflex, to save money at shop for disassemble 

Edited by Dieselfuture

41 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

To change seals, check guides  and magnaflex, to save money at shop for disassemble 

Did they say they would charge you less? The shop I had mine done at specifically wanted them in to ensure they didn't get mixed up.

On 7/10/2017 at 7:57 AM, Dieselfuture said:

Needing some advice on my turbo, I want to get compressor housing with wheel but few options here. This one is 62x86, supposed to be largest available for hx35. Listed as cH11 . http://www.gillettdiesel.com/HXUpgradeCompressorHousingandWheel60mm6blade-1-1.aspx

There are other ones but thinking to go with ch11. Then machine my bearing housing for larger wheel. And hopefully be able to reuse my exhaust housing with turbine wheel. If not i can get this 12cm long, should bolt up to my exhaust brake. They have 14cm too. 

http://www.gillettdiesel.com/12cmnon-wastegatedturbinehousing-3.aspx

And there is this wheel on ebay it's 10 blade vs 12 what are the thoughts on it.  http://m.ebay.com/itm/111577452460

I'm guessing I need to stay with 12cm exhaust housing. 

Another thing is this bearing section also from eBay  http://m.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HX40-HX35-Bearing-Housing-/111587767332?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

My guess is from China maybe,  but it says he can machine it for whatever and put a oring grove if needed, do I need an oring grove. For $55 new bearing carier machined to larger wheel seems like a good deal.     @Mopar1973Man

@jlbayes @TFaoro @trreed

Thanks guys. 

 

 

Call DAP and ask about the BW K27. It reuses the holset downpipe connector I believe, so you can use your exhaust brake. Brand new. I've said this before, when I put the 60mm wheel and cover on my WH1C, it surged like crazy, exhaust couldn't keep. Then I upgraded to a 14cm exhaust housing, still surged. Then I ran  a 58mm wheel and cover with 14cm housing, no surging, it ran fine. 14cm keeps cruising temps down, with some lag down low. Now, I have a super b, little laggy off the line, but good when cruising.

 

I called thoroughbred diesel about the K27, they said the super b would be better, but that doesn't help you. 

  • Author
2 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Did they say they would charge you less? The shop I had mine done at specifically wanted them in to ensure they didn't get mixed up.

I keep it all separate in case something changes. I'm taking 2 valves in with the head just to get an opinion from them. Guides did seem a bit lose and had oil on valves when I pulled them out. I just can't afford 1500 it ran fine before. I'll put new seals on and put it all back together unless they say guides are horrible.

9 minutes ago, CTcummins24V said:

Call DAP and ask about the BW K27

Good call!  I forgot all about that option. 

Ok....I typically let the machine shop do that as they SHOULD be pulling it all to surface the head. As well as can pressure test the head. I would bet money the head is cracked....pressure test is the ONLY way to know if the head is junk or not. Unless something obvious is wrong lol

  • Author

At the shop now, some valve guides are very lose like oval shape. So I'm having them do everything, new guides, valve job, etc. So far I got on their good side and suppose to be at $850 out the door. Including pressure testing 

They're going to call me later today and let me know on maging test. Now that he's going to regrinde all valves he said just toss all the valves and springs in a box and bring them over. Are springs all same pressure 60# I assume. @jlbayes @TFaoro

Turbo will probably have to wait I'm going to try to rebuild what I got, unless someone got a hybrid they want to send me:whistle2:

There she lies, cause it's a bitc..

59652354c75ad_2017-07-1114_13_35.jpg.7b0179d4f016a7539afc5f3d9edad04d.jpg

Edited by Dieselfuture

The maging is going to show cracks. It is not going to show IF the cracks are leaking.

  • Author

Yes understood, that's why they going to mag it before they go any further

1 hour ago, CTcummins24V said:

 

Call DAP and ask about the BW K27. It reuses the holset downpipe connector I believe, so you can use your exhaust brake. Brand new. I've said this before, when I put the 60mm wheel and cover on my WH1C, it surged like crazy, exhaust couldn't keep. Then I upgraded to a 14cm exhaust housing, still surged. Then I ran  a 58mm wheel and cover with 14cm housing, no surging, it ran fine. 14cm keeps cruising temps down, with some lag down low. Now, I have a super b, little laggy off the line, but good when cruising.

 

I called thoroughbred diesel about the K27, they said the super b would be better, but that doesn't help you. 

Thank you for going in detail on what you did. Sure sounds like something I would of been doing. 

Is K27 or similar be ok with 75hp injectors and how is it for Towing and mpgs. If it's all that much better I might consider selling my exhaust brake and maybe later get an inline one. Unless K27 be perfect. What are the dimensions on it, anyone know. 

from my understanding of DAP's writeup on it, it's a 60/58/not specified.  Which I'm not sure how they get away with that, as I would think it has pretty bad surging issues.  But it has the same v-band as your current HX has, so you could use your exhaust brake with it

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.