plans of turning the tack area into a 4' short wall LQ 2 horse.  I am getting pretty excited to move away from the truck bed camper.

Looks like steel   But aluminum is so expensive...

Yea it weights in between 5-6k .. I think the 1993 model 4 horse is #6280 or something same axles same steel, just 1 horse more. 

 

 

Edited July 13, 20177 yr by Me78569

So is currently three horse with mid tack?  and plans to turn it into a 2 horse with mid tack delete kit?

3 horse no mid tack. 

 

Gonna turn it into a 2 horse no mid tack

 

It looks like there was a removable tack in the back.

What's all this tack, mid tack you speak of?!

@notlimah horsey stuff lol.

Nick, looks like you have plenty of room as it is, but then again my gf's trailer has a small "living quarters" and it looks the same lol

Edited July 13, 20177 yr by trreed

Well we settled on $3800.  Needs a bit of work to get her road ready, but the bones of the trailer are good.  I can handle the wiring etc.  

 

Picking her up tomorrow.  

Good score!  Better than Tiffany's almost most recent purchase..... an 04 Featherlite that had bent doors, a divider ripped out of the wall, and a floor that separated from the walls..... "but it's only 9300!  Fix it up and it's a 16k trailer!" Horse women, I tell ya

Edited July 14, 20177 yr by trreed

they are nutso....

Well, we are *almost* the same way about our trucks, so....

 

well I have a full weekend ahead of me.

 

- Full trailer rewire, was gonna do this regardless. 

- replace lights

- repack bearings

- go over brakes / test / fix

- start cleaning roof to reseal

- figure out mounting for battery and propane

- figure out how to put battery in line for charging while on road allowing for disconnect while camping

- start the process of cutting out divider wall

- wirewheel rust / pour 15 

- in depth floor review

- drink beer

Propane is easy to mount.  Personally I'd build walls to actually hold the tanks in place and prevent rocks/road crap from getting in there.

Easiest way I've seen to wire the battery in line is to run the hot pin from the truck directly to the battery, then just unplug the trailer when camping. Is that the safest way to do it? Debatable.

Mounting the battery is another question, in the picture above you can see a shelf above the spare tire that looks like it has a battery in it..  The rest is easy, especially the last (should be first or middle) task!

Edited July 14, 20177 yr by trreed

Yea I need a welder,  I have rivets at this point to use.  

 

we will see what I get done.

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

figure out how to put battery in line for charging while on road allowing for disconnect while camping

You should have a hot wire coming back to your trailer hitch wiring. That should go straight to the battery on the trailer.  That's how factory camp trailers are.

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

Yea I need a welder,  I have rivets at this point to use.  

 

we will see what I get done.

I've got a cheap welder for sale.

 

Yep

 

How much?

Ugh!!! slant load horse trailers, never figured out that system as have a lot of other old time horse folks. Very unsafe for two and four legged critters.

One of my first attemps at making something from a sheet of steel.    I am happy with it considering I only had a angle grinder and a hammer.

 

I am going to weld it in place tomorrow.  

 

Pretty good Nick!!  Now let's see what you do with that divider wall ?

the divider wall is kicking my butt, gonna need to find someone with a plasma cutter I think.  Angle grinder is not going great haha.  

 

 

The good news is,

- got the battery  box "welded" on ( use that term loosely as I welded it on there)

- got the wiring into the tack area done, fuse block comes today

- got the trailer wiring tackled and redone.  It is always easier to cut everything out and start from scratch.  Thankfully the 7 pin wiring was good and untouched all the way to the rear of the trailer, so I just cut out all the  wiring from that point and put new stuff in.  That did require me to cut the rear 4" of floor out, but the floor needs to be replaced anyways.  

- got %90 of the surface rust ground off and repainted.

- got the trailer brakes sorted out,  still have one wire to crimp but it looks good. 

 

Started in on packing the bearing, but I am not able to find the seals locally so I had to order them....at $20 a pop...ouch.

 

Roof sealant tape comes in today so I might be tackling that.  

 

 

And I have to get it registered which requires a vin inspection so I can't do that until I get the bearings done.