As my signature says I have a 1998.5 24v Cummins. I want to list the build sheet and mark what I already have done. I would like you thoughts on hp/tq numbers I could possibly see and Different brands or routes to go with different parts of the truck. Also would like opinions on my taste for the appearance of the truck.

 

 = Purchased/On Truck

 = Tab is Open On Computer But Haven't Pressed Checkout. Mainly a Funds Problem haha

 

Build Sheet:

   1998.5 Cummins 5-Speed

13" Valair Single Disc 500/100 Clutch Kit w/ 1 3/8" Upgrade Input Shaft

ATS 3-Piece Manifold

BorgWarner SXE 62/68/70 Turbo

HX40 Downpipe

5" Straight pipe Exhaust to 8" Tip

Crazy Carls Intake Elbow

Crazy Carls Tunnel Ram Intake

 7x.011 Sac Injectors - DFI

 104# Valve Springs

 Heavy Duty Pushrods - DFI

       ARP 425 Headstuds

S&B Intake

Fluidampr

Quadzilla Adrenaline w/ Iquad(Possible V2 Upgrade?)

Smarty S03

       Traction Bars

 Track Bar - DOR

 Steering Brace - DOR

       All new HD Steering Components - Moog

 2.5" Leveling Kit

       18x10(12) or 20x12 Chrome/Forged Wheels with 33 or 35" Tires

       Bedliner

       Front Shocks

       Rear Shocks

       Stabilizer Shock

       Windshield

       Tint All Around as I have some kinda eye condition where I go blind when I see lights at night. I forgot what its called. Supposed to get a prescription fro doctor.

       Redo Entire Interior from Carpet to headliner

       Tow Mirrors(Folded In Until Needed)

       Clear Projector Headlights, LED Tailights, Led Third Brake Light

       Remove Tailgate Plastic

       New Paint

       Chrome Door Handles

       Colormatch Bumper Plastics

What are your goals?  

 

I would recommend going with VCO nozzle injectors over SAC unless you are looking for every ounce of power possible.  I would also recommend a little bigger injector then using hte V2 tuning to control it.  You are going to run out of clutch in short order though.  

 

Brings us back to the goals of the truck and the needs of the truck?

 

 

If oyu already have the Iquad I would upgrade to v2 now.  

Goals for the truck are to be able to turn it up and show a few mustangs it isn't just another diesel while still being able to drive it around everyday and get decent mileage for what ive got done to the truck. Needs, well I pull a menagerie of trailers. Anything from 10ft bumper pull to 32ft gooseneck with hay or a 28ft stock trailer loaded down with cattle. I have the quadzilla and the tech at quadzilla said to ship it to him and he would update it to v2 tuning fro free for me. Im currently putting a new ecm on the truck from a 2002 so the smarty will be used to flash it to work with my truck. Technical difficulties happened and now i have to ship the unit to mads to have it fixed. I want a truck that I can drive everyday and be proud of and maybe catch a few people taking a second look from time to time haha. Chris at DFI recommended the 7x.011 sac after I told him what I wanted. Concerning the clutch. I am honestly dissapointed in the clutch as its a 500hp 1000ft-lb club and with the quadzilla by itself set on level 8 in 3rd 4th and 5th with the turbo set to 40psi and the programmer on 70% backdown it will spin the clutch for a solid second if not a few seconds.

You might check my thread in the Quadzilla section about the 7 x .012's I am running.     It is my belief that VCO's are better in a day to day enviroment.   With V2 you really want to go bigger than you think you want in terms of injectors.  The control of V2 will allow you to limit total fueling duration and keep stess off the pump .  I have outlined the evidence in the thread below.
 

 

 

 

You can flash the box yourself as well.  The video of how to is in the Quadzilla section as well.  

I would fkash it myself but I just tried flashing my smarty and it fried the smarty. I don't want the same thing to happen to the quadzilla, aswell as the tech said they will honor my warranty if they do the upgrade

  On 10/5/2017 at 2:54 PM, Me78569 said:

You might check my thread in the Quadzilla section about the 7 x .012's I am running.     It is my belief that VCO's are better in a day to day enviroment.   With V2 you really want to go bigger than you think you want in terms of injectors.  The control of V2 will allow you to limit total fueling duration and keep stess off the pump .  I have outlined the evidence in the thread below.
 

 

 

 

You can flash the box yourself as well.  The video of how to is in the Quadzilla section as well.  

^^

How do I edit the original post? I didn't put my emoji by head studs. I already have them just haven't installed yet.

  On 10/5/2017 at 2:57 AM, Waydin_Stewart said:

2.5" Leveling Kit

 

Be really careful here. Once you start down this road it get rather hairy quick. Don't think you can just put a leveling kit on and everything just works. Sorry you have to realize the changes in the axle geometry and how it impacts steering and performance. Then you going to add the oversized tires on top it's also going to impact the steering and longevity of the steering parts as well. Might consider looking into the correct control arm lengths for your lift / leveling kit. This will help a bunch in correcting the geometry of the axle again. 

 

  On 10/5/2017 at 2:57 AM, Waydin_Stewart said:

18x10(12) or 20x12 Chrome/Forged Wheels with 33 or 35" Tires

 

Be aware this will impact final gearing of the truck so if your doing the 35" I highly suggest you re do the gearing on the axle(s) to 4.10. I've got a local gent that's running 37" tires and was having to build way more power just to twist the tires with 3.55 gears. Now after swapping to 4.10 the truck way more powerful and fuel mileage is way up. 

 

every inch increase of tire height difference is ~0.12 removed from the effective gearing.  

 

IE: going to 35's is like going from 3.55 rear end to 3.05 

Not to mention with a wheel tire combo like that it'll tow like poo

Then the other factor that will kick in is braking performance becomes poor. You'll need to upgrade to 3rd Gen brakes to overcome the leverage that the large tires will place on the brakes. Rotational mass and leverage will impact the braking performance negatively and increase brake wear.

So basically i need to scrap my enitre plan to kinda spoof up the truck a little bit or have to buy new gear for the differentials. Ill have to put an entire new braking setup. Ill have t put a long arm suspension setup as the short arm setups ride like crap. Ill have to make even more hp which will in turn make me ave to get an even bigger clutch. OOOO boy haha this sounds like thousands more than my initial estimate.

I'd say if you have any plans on towing regularly then those 18-20 wheels on 35's are going to make thing horrendous when towing. If you don't tow and you just want the look, then you can get away with it IMO. But if your towing then yes, the things you mentioned are kinda neccesary to maintain a good towing platform while still having everything the way you want.

 

For example, I went from 315's on 16's down to 285's on 17's and it made a huge difference. 

To make it simple every truck I've seen jacked up had front end issues and wore parts out like no tomorrow. I've done it myself and in the end it was 2.5 ton axles with a drop tcase, then it seemed to last, but I still manged to snap axles so had to upgrade to chrome moly, not cheap. Fun though. That's how I ended up getting my 2nd gen is I got tired of big heavy parts and no place to play, so now I still have something to tinker with and more reliable and useful. 

So I can get a leveling kit but will need the longer control arms to relocate the axle forward. Or just take out the over load springs to reverse level it and then get the control arms to push the axle forward to clear 33s on stock ride height

From what I understand, 33's will fit on 17's or smaller with no lift up front. I had a 2in level with 35's and they fit and would only rub the outside of the tire on the plastic wheel well cover at full lock. I have "33's" (285's) now and plan on going down to a 1in level up front so I'll find out if my understanding is correct or not. I don't think control arms are necessary for a 2in level or smaller, unless you were going bigger then 315/75/16, but it would be doing it the right way.

i have 285/75/16 hankook dynapro at/m right now. they dont rub at all. so 18 or smaller with 9 or skinnier tires and smallee than a 35 is what i should get

  On 10/10/2017 at 6:43 PM, notlimah said:

From what I understand, 33's will fit on 17's or smaller with no lift up front. I had a 2in level with 35's and they fit and would only rub the outside of the tire on the plastic wheel well cover at full lock. I have "33's" (285's) now and plan on going down to a 1in level up front so I'll find out if my understanding is correct or not. I don't think control arms are necessary for a 2in level or smaller, unless you were going bigger then 315/75/16, but it would be doing it the right way.

I was planning on doing a 2.5 leveling kit. So will the .5 inch of lift be too much for stock axle location and therefore cause me to have to get the longer control arms to relocate my axle forward a .5 inch or however far they push it forward to center it?

I'm not entirely sure if that .5in difference would matter, but I have no personal experience with it and my guess would be that no it will not. Again, I think you mentioned this before, if you tow, a 2.5in level is going to make the truck sag big time, even when empty it'll more then likely look like it has a nose high rake so just be aware of that.

I just measured it out of curiosity. And from my very rough measurements on my concrete pad which isn't level after years of use the back is 2 and 3/4 inch higher than the front.

Yea that's sounds about right. Your still stock aren't you? 

 

From what ive noticed on my truck when it's parked in my driveway slightly up hill from fender to top of the wheel the front is maybe an inch lower, but looking at it it seems dead even. Sometimes at the right angle it'll look like it has a rake but other times (read majority) it's perfectly even. I thinknwith long beds this is exaggerated even more so good for thought.

  On 10/11/2017 at 2:39 AM, notlimah said:

Yea that's sounds about right. Your still stock aren't you? 

 

From what ive noticed on my truck when it's parked in my driveway slightly up hill from fender to top of the wheel the front is maybe an inch lower, but looking at it it seems dead even. Sometimes at the right angle it'll look like it has a rake but other times (read majority) it's perfectly even. I thinknwith long beds this is exaggerated even more so good for thought.

i can get a 2 and 3/4 leveling kit instead of 2 and 1/2 for a couple bucks more to get it completely even. Im gunna go to walmart or somewhere similar to make sure my measurements were swayed cause of 35 year old concrete. i want a level look while unloaded. If squatting while towing is a bother to me I will purchase leveling air bags and a compressor to throw under where the spare tire vanished from while on the interstate to little rock.

That last part is somewhat true. The location where the spare exited the vehicle is unknown and has been since November of 1999.