ok unlike most My converter does not unlock most of the time. I have replaced and checked new  alt. with new method, replace control solenoids,  when I come to a stop it stays locked ,shifting to neutral does not unlock it. when I put back in gear will kill engine. when I restart it is unlocked. all though when I started it today after sitting all nite it was locked, shout it off when restarted it was unlocked.it seems to work fine when cold after warm up it fails to unlock. most of the time.also it was rebuilt about 10000 miles ago with new half billet converter.truck has 220000 miles

If your valve body is stock and you have any sort of aftermarket TC that could be your problem right there. Aftermarket TC's need the additional line pressure from a properly tuned valve body. 

just stock heavy duty converter,  took pan off today clean nothing at all in it.  if the converter was bad would I find something in the pan ?

Hmm, you have a build sheet or anything that labels exactly what was done to your trans? Might help us make more sense of what's going on based on exactly what you have.

 

I don't think you'd see anything in the pan if the converter was bad just because it's sealed for the most part, but I guess crazier things have happened.

all  i got was a bill no specifics was supposed to be stock no up grades except the converter  and not sure about that does not say on bill. I'am about ready to take to a shop and have them put scanner on it. dont think it will be the same shop

What concerns me is if they did install something other then a stock converter with a stock valve body. Typically you want to upgrade both of those at the same time so they can support each other. One without the other could cause problems, I'm just not sure if that could cause the problems you're having.

Edited October 17, 20177 yr by notlimah

It worked fine for 10000 miles then started the in & out lockup , then it went to just not unlocking at all unless i shut it off usually that unlocks it but not all the time. i remember when it was in and out I replaced the plastic accumulator piston with a billet one. dont know if that has any thing to do with current problem. 

question on a 2000 47re is it possible to hook a test light to the orange /black wire on no2 plug to see when the converter lock up signal is active or off? should it show power when not engaged and off when in lockup ?  I have read that the clutch is under fluid pressure when unlocked and no fluid when in lockup, is this correct? also when the light is on will this cause it to lock because of the ground threw test light? I'am just trying to determine if pcm might be bad.

The lockup wire is a ground switch.  So if you ground the orange and black you will get lockup.  

 

You can just omh for resistence to ground, you should see 0ish when locked.  

OK I hooked my meter to the orange / black wire and drove the pickup several miles my meter is showing 14 volts in unlock and .18 in lockup, power go to 14 as soon as I let off throttle the converter stayed locked until I stopped and shut key off, startup it was released. putting in neutral and back in gear just killed engine, but only done this a couple of times out of about 10 lockup and stops. also check my ac voltage at alt. showed 28-30 volts

so one lead of the multimeter was to ground and one was to blank and orange?  And you got a voltage reading while checking resistance?  That doesn't sound right.  

 

 

Edited October 17, 20177 yr by Me78569

Was checking for voltage and not resistance. Just the way I read it. Measured the voltage drop is all they did.

resistance read 0 all the time so I checked voltage drop, I did the alt fuse removal test  with field wire pulled as will no change in lockup. 

resitence should only read closed or 0.00 when commanding lockup.  You might have a short in your wire to ground someplace causing lockup all the time when the vb allows.. 

 

 

truck idling in p should read open circuit 

 

The trans can't downshift when locked as well so that might cause other issues.  

 

Edited October 17, 20177 yr by Me78569

You can't conclusively check for resistance in an active circuit. The current flowing in the circuit will cause all kinds of weirdness with your meter and its readings. Checking voltage on the ground leg (orange/black wire) is the proper way to check electrical operation of the TCC circuit. You should see full voltage when unlocked, and close to zero voltage when the PCM provides a ground and pulls the ground side low. It wounds like it's working properly.

 

I would check for a sticking switch valve in the VB, but it sounds like there's something wrong with your converter.

changed out vb if that means anything ! just rechecked resistance and it showed open all the time lock and unlock conditions ran up and down several times . guess I ll buy new converter ?

does Mopar1973man work in a local shop?

 

If by local shop you mean HIS shop, then yup he does haha!

27 minutes ago, PRCT said:

guess I ll buy new converter ?

 

Spend the money and get a good one, and I'd recommend having a good valve body built to go with it.

1 hour ago, PRCT said:

changed out vb if that means anything ! just rechecked resistance and it showed open all the time lock and unlock conditions ran up and down several times . guess I ll buy new converter ?

does Mopar1973man work in a local shop?

 

 

Yeah I've got my own shop...

 

Link below will pull up my Google result and you can get directions to my place.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mopar1973man