This thread is for the results of the testing of the differnece pop pressure at the same size.   

 

ANY REPLIES NOT ON TOPIC AND OR WITHOUT DATA WILL BE DELETED.  

 

I will be running 3 sets of DAP injectors first set at 305 bar, next at 330 and the last at 350 bar.  We are going to compare real world situtations and what the pros and cons are of increasing pop pressure.   All tests will be datalogged and video taped if applicable.   

 

The tune will be EXACTLY the same for all injectors.  al runs done on Lvl 3, so no wiretap being used

 

Quote

Timing Parameters
Fuel Load Timing	3
Low PSI Timing Reduct	5
Timing Reduct Scaling	50
LightThrottle Timing Adv	1.5
Light Throttle Limit	30
Timing Equilzer
1500RPM	17
2000RPM	20
2500RPM	23
3000RPM	28
MAX	30
Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus
0 PSI	66
1 PSI	66
2 PSI	67
3 PSI	68
4 PSI	70
5 PSI	71
6 PSI	72
7 PSI	74
8 PSI	76
9 PSI	78
10 PSI	80
11 PSI	82
12 PSI	84
13 PSI	86
14 PSI	90
15 PSI	94
16 PSI	98
18 PSI	102
20 PSI	106
22 PSI	110
24 PSI	114
26 PSI	118
28 PSI	120
30+ PSI	120

 

 

Test conditions. 

 

Quote

 

 

1. 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road

2. 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt

3. Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool.  

 

 

 

 

305 BAR

Test 1 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road

 

 

 

 

Test 2 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt

 

 

Test 3 Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool.  

 

 

 

 

 

330 BAR

Test 1 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road

 

 

Test 2 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt

 

Canbus fueling is ~1125 and egt right around 710-725*f  ( road is slightly uphill

 

 

Test 3 Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool.  

 

 

350 BAR

 

Test 1 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road

 

 

 

 

Test 2 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt

 

 

Test 3 Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool.  

Edited February 12, 20187 yr by Me78569

@pepsi71ocean   try again when it gets cold.  my issue was like a light switch at ~16*f ambient on a cold block.   you are signficantly warmer at that temp.  

none of the reported starting issues happened when it was above 20*f

7 hours ago, Me78569 said:

@pepsi71ocean   try again when it gets cold.  my issue was like a light switch at ~16*f ambient on a cold block.   you are signficantly warmer at that temp.  

none of the reported starting issues happened when it was above 20*f

 

Hopefully I'll have the truck back and running by February. We rarely get much below 15-20F here maybe in the dead of winter in Febuary. Bull I'll totally get the truck up to PA and do some testing with this smarty.

On 12/24/2018 at 9:30 AM, dieselautopower said:

Did we do the initial setting of pressure?

 

We use a digital gauge that gives very accurate max pop off pressure.

Yes they were bought from you, (reman) and set to 340. Now they are supposed to be at 315 but something isn't right... Im loping so bad it dies about every 4th time i slow down to take a corner.. it's nearly undrivable from the lope

 

On 12/22/2018 at 11:11 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Who did you buy them from. How many miles, years were they on. Something ain't right here imo. Just don’t know what yet.

They were bought directly from dap when this testing started. Ran about right at a year, less than 20k miles

 

Thanks for the update.  I want those injectors to run good for you.  I would like you to send them back in.  Check with warranty@dieselautopower.com and lets get it fixed for you.

8 hours ago, dieselautopower said:

Thanks for the update.  I want those injectors to run good for you.  I would like you to send them back in.  Check with warranty@dieselautopower.com and lets get it fixed for you.

I will. I was planning on getting in touch with you i just hadn't had time may be a few weeks before I can pull them.. strange they fell so much and also that they do this now.

8 hours ago, dieselautopower said:

Thanks for the update.  I want those injectors to run good for you.  I would like you to send them back in.  Check with warranty@dieselautopower.com and lets get it fixed for you.

Wonder what causes them to settle quicker than originals. Could it be springs that are being reused, tired and settle faster. I know that there's some wear of niddle and seat but should be minimal in first 20-30k and the big shim washer is always next to spring to take the abuse. There's got to be an answer, seems to be a common problem with reman injectors. I'm leaning towards springs 

On 1/2/2019 at 9:53 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Wonder what causes them to settle quicker than originals. Could it be springs that are being reused, tired and settle faster. I know that there's some wear of niddle and seat but should be minimal in first 20-30k and the big shim washer is always next to spring to take the abuse. There's got to be an answer, seems to be a common problem with reman injectors. I'm leaning towards springs 

I would guess that the bodies are shot. Either way I think I'm going to be going a different route anyway. Probably going to tone it down and sell off some of the performance parts and sell the truck.

2 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

I would guess that the bodies are shot. Either way I think I'm going to be going a different route anyway. Probably going to tone it down and sell off some of the performance parts and sell the truck.

 

What are you replacing it with?

2 hours ago, Dodgeih said:

I would guess that the bodies are shot. Either way I think I'm going to be going a different route anyway. Probably going to tone it down and sell off some of the performance parts and sell the truck.

Feel your pain man, I don't see how bodies can wear much, they only house the internals, but I'm not an injector expert ether. 

I've had enough vehicles and most trouble free were always Japanese in the cheaper price range, that said if I ever buy another truck it will be a tundra more than likely, unless I can afford a new Cummins all deleted of course. It all depends on what needs to be done with the truck, heavy loads or just a little boat behind it and occasional house repair stuff. 

All of this talk has me questioning rebuilding my dodge with 126,000 miles on her.

49 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

What are you replacing it with?

Idk something that will net an easier sell and roi... Probably just 7x.009 or something with my 62\64 hx35 and sell my s475 and compound piping... Make more money selling that stuff off. I just bought 3rd gen so i guess time to get rid of this one

 

4 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Feel your pain man, I don't see how bodies can wear much, they only house the internals, but I'm not an injector expert ether. 

I've had enough vehicles and most trouble free were always Japanese in the cheaper price range, that said if I ever buy another truck it will be a tundra more than likely, unless I can afford a new Cummins all deleted of course. It all depends on what needs to be done with the truck, heavy loads or just a little boat behind it and occasional house repair stuff. 

I had an 06 Tudra Double Cab. Loved that truck. First brand new truck I ever bought. Lots of power, towed great for its capacity. Definitely missed it when I sold it and bought an 02 Cummins.

10 minutes ago, Dodgeih said:

Idk something that will net an easier sell and roi... Probably just 7x.009 or something with my 62\64 hx35 and sell my s475 and compound piping... Make more money selling that stuff off. I just bought 3rd gen so i guess time to get rid of this one

 

All new? I have considered keeping my HX35 and going compounds instead of a single SXE 362.

15 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

All of this talk has me questioning rebuilding my dodge with 126,000 miles on her.

Same here. 90K on my 02. Can't decide if it's worth throwing money into. It's more of a toy than anything.

2 hours ago, gipperkid said:

Definitely missed it when I sold it and bought an 02 Cummins.

Be kinda hard to go from 4 door to retarded backwards doors. Never understood that though. 

3 hours ago, gipperkid said:

Same here. 90K on my 02. Can't decide if it's worth throwing money into. It's more of a toy than anything.

 

I reached the conclusion for me that even at the age of a 1999, and having already dumped more into the truck then i could sell it for, I've spent more and more time doing work on it. I believe that watching countless people go from 2nd gens into 3rd and 4th gens only to go back to the 2nds, and complain about the cost of injectors, cp3's and emissions its north worth the hassle. It maybe a toy but my 99 will still get up and tow when i need it to. Simplicity of the design also makes them more reliable.

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

Be kinda hard to go from 4 door to retarded backwards doors. Never understood that though. 

Yes I definitely missed the full four doors. I still have my 02 but it's only driven occasionally now. I have a 17 Duramax Crew Cab for the family tow rig now. No hating....

1 hour ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

I reached the conclusion for me that even at the age of a 1999, and having already dumped more into the truck then i could sell it for, I've spent more and more time doing work on it. I believe that watching countless people go from 2nd gens into 3rd and 4th gens only to go back to the 2nds, and complain about the cost of injectors, cp3's and emissions its north worth the hassle. It maybe a toy but my 99 will still get up and tow when i need it to. Simplicity of the design also makes them more reliable.

And that is what has me keeping the 2nd gen. Much cheaper to make power and have fun. Plus I have always been partial to the 2nd gen body style.

18 hours ago, gipperkid said:

Yes I definitely missed the full four doors. I still have my 02 but it's only driven occasionally now. I have a 17 Duramax Crew Cab for the family tow rig now. No hating....

And that is what has me keeping the 2nd gen. Much cheaper to make power and have fun. Plus I have always been partial to the 2nd gen body style.

 I would argue very much so that it's much cheaper to create safe efficient horsepower in a common-rail pickup... Especially when many third gen barely cost more than 2nd gens if at all to initially purchase...

23 hours ago, gipperkid said:

 

All new? I have considered keeping my HX35 and going compounds instead of a single SXE 362.

 

 No it is used. It's just a box s475 and all the piping couplers hoses drains flanges.. everything

1 hour ago, Dodgeih said:

 I would argue very much so that it's much cheaper to create safe efficient horsepower in a common-rail pickup... Especially when many third gen barely cost more than 2nd gens if at all to initially purchase...

 

But in my case I already own the truck outright. Buying a 2nd gen new to me is only an option if its mint condition. I almost bought a mint garage kept 1999 3500 auto a few years ago for $17,000. Had 36,000 miles on it! Now a days, its hard to look at dropping 20,000 for a new 3rd gen and then factor in the cost of injectors every 100,000 miles.

Going to revive this thread. 

 

I'm now jumped in the boat and can confirm that so far no starting issues with 320 bar pop pressure. Even with winter conditions and 4WD operation I'm floating 18 to just barely under 20 MPG. 

 

Cost of operation is down.

 

MPG number are much better over the worn out 7 x 0.0085 injectors.

 

As for my current tune. This is what I'm running on right now. 

 

iQuad-Economy-2019-02-24-05.22.211856515041.json

 

What I've learned is that with higher pop pressure injectors you need to RETARD your timing more than usual for MPG numbers. As you see my timing starts at 13, 17, 21, 25. Cruise timing at 2,000 right now is right near 19 degrees.

 

Edited February 25, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

Glad the new 150HP are working well for you and MPG are up.

34 minutes ago, dieselautopower said:

Glad the new 150HP are working well for you and MPG are up.

 

@dieselautopower

 

I'm considering sending my old 7 x 0.0085 and having a set of 7 x 0.010 nozzles again and then having them set for 330 bar.