Okay I've got something going on with my truck and I'm in need of ideas. My truck sounds different (more tinney rattle) in the top end, less power, less boost higher EGT's. I pulled the valve cover off and re-torqued everything. I was worried something vibrated loose. Everything was tight. I did start the truck while the valve cover was off, and I could hear what was I think was the injectors. Not sure what they are suppose to sound like?

I haven't changed a thing with any settings in the Quad tuning. I'm running the edge tune, (I can post them if anyone wants to look them over). Only thing that I found was the set screw on the boost elbow backed out and was gone. I replaced it (screwed all the in) built a "boost tester" pressurized the system, zero boost leaks. I'll add the data logs, the one in green is from January, red one is from yesterday. 

 

Today I adjusted the valves ( they were a little loose), while running the truck after the valve lash adjustment I noticed the fuel pressure was running between 12-13 psi at idle. I put a mechanical gauge on it and I've got a crazy surging going on. It will stay at 12ish - psi for a second or two, then surge up to 22ish, then drop back to 12ish again(I'll try and add a short video). I did the bucket test on the fass 150 everything is flowing great no surge, Next, I put everything back except pulled the fuel line off the vp44 and ran it into the fuel tank via main fill hose (used the key bump flowed great). Last, I powered the pump with a constant power source independent of the trucks electrical system flowed great no surge.  

 

What I need ideals with is I think I have possible two problems aggravating each other.

First is the loss of power, boost with higher EGT. I'm not sure on this one bc I haven't changed anything with the power out put in my tune. Just showed up along with the change in engine sound...

Re-recap: boost test= no leaks, replaced the boost elbow set screw(I found it missing), adjusted valves, no blow by, waste gate functioning normal with compressed air test.

 

Second is the fuel surging issue... It only seems to surge when the fuel lines are hooked up to the vp44. I'm wondering if there is a fuel return regulator or valve that's malfunctioning ?

Re-cap: Fass 150 bucket test= no surge, in-tank pick up used to feed the fass 150 and pressure line flowing into tank fill = no surge, out side power source = no surge, all the lines back in the places they came from(pick-up, pressure, return) truck running with out side power source= surge, same as test before truck power source= surge

Video file is to big, it won't let me upload it. I can email it to anyone that wants to take a look.

Thanks guys any input or ideas will help!!

22 hours ago, jlbayes said:

Please explain how those of us running 30psi have not pushed a seal out? How stock trucks with under 10psi push the seal out? It is NOT a pressure problem.

 

That what I was going to ask you why have I found 3 people with the seal hanging on the shaft and blown out of the pump with 30 PSI? Then diesel fuel just dumping in the gear case?

Edited March 23, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

What about polyurethane bushing replacement instead of replacing the whole track bar?

 

Dont the 2001s have the rubber bushings in each end that a bolt goes through ?

 

 

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18 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

What about polyurethane bushing replacement instead of replacing the whole track bar?

 

Dont the 2001s have the rubber bushings in each end that a bolt goes through ?

 

 

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Bushing at the axle. Ball stud at the frame.

33 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

What about polyurethane bushing replacement instead of replacing the whole track bar?

 

I think he's thinking 3rd Gen track bar. 

 

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

Bushing at the axle. Ball stud at the frame.

 

Typically the ball stud fails on 2nd Gen track bars.

Quote

Ball stud at the frame.

 My 99 has the ball and stud at the frame

 

Ive been thinking all this time they changed that in 2001 to a bushing and through bolt

 

Well, how come you guys havent installed a after market bracket and a 3rd gen bar?

 

I thought you all did that already 

 

 

Does anyone know of any discount codes or how to get free shipping from geno's garage?

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That what I was going to ask you why have I found 3 people with the seal hanging on the shaft and blown out of the pump with 30 PSI? Then diesel fuel just dumping in the gear case?

Why do I have around 10 people with completely stock trucks and failed front seals? 

4 hours ago, GSP7 said:

 My 99 has the ball and stud at the frame

 

Ive been thinking all this time they changed that in 2001 to a bushing and through bolt

 

Well, how come you guys havent installed a after market bracket and a 3rd gen bar?

 

I thought you all did that already 

 

 

Some have some have not. I have not. Installed my 3rd one 20k or so ago, including the OE one. Still happy with what i have.

Hi, all. Looks like the problem was in fact the ball and spring. Pressure issue fixed!

Low power not as much boost issue, was my IAT mis-reading the temp. It was reading 9.75k ohms at 70 degress which is closer to the 78 degree range.... I pulled it, cleaned it, and retested it. Improved to 11.74k ohms which was better, but should hould have been closer to the 13k ohms. I order a new one. 

Drove the truck power and boost is back to normal along with lower egts. 

 

Thanks for the help!!

Can IAT do that @Mopar1973Man I know you said it does things to timing map.

30 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Can IAT do that @Mopar1973Man I know you said it does things to timing map.

Normally I don't bother with ohm test I just watch the IAT temps which typically +40 degrees over outside temp. So today the outside temp is 40 degrees so my IAT is at 78 degrees which is just fine.

How do you know what temp your IAT is?

 

Do you have some special computer read out thingy you got plugged in to your scanner plug at the bottom of the dash ?

 

Yeah ,,,  all I have is a scan tool .

Edited March 24, 20187 yr by GSP7

I see mine on the scan gauge II. Connects thru the obd port. The ones like @Mopar1973Man and many others have are better cheaper. I will let Mike explain that one since I am to cheap to buy one yet.

Whats a scan gauge II do ?  Give a actual 'value' read out of every computer sensor on a vehicle

 

If read some thread long time ago that mentioned a scan gauge II

 

 

 

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Edited March 24, 20187 yr by GSP7

37 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

Whats a scan gauge II do ?  Give a actual 'value' read out of every computer sensor on a vehicle

 

If read some thread long time ago that mentioned a scan gauge II

 

 

 

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It does not read everything and the sample rates are slow. It also reads and clears trouble codes. It is pricey compared to what Mike uses. His uses the ODB port transmits info to an Android device I believe. It's alot cheaper and better.

Edited March 24, 20187 yr by dripley

5 hours ago, GSP7 said:

How do you know what temp your IAT is?

Qwadzila.... pretty much every sensor is viewed life. Or obdlink can do same https://www.google.com/search?q=obdlink&oq=obdli&aqs=chrome.4.69i60l2j69i57j0l3.5061j0j7&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Alllllright last thing I discovered is what caused the sound of my engine to change...... "injector rattle" caused from timing?  

(See the attached pic of my timing... 28* @3000, 30* max and canbus fueling. With no wire tap.)

 

My question is..... this seems to be caused by high timing, low boost and low fuel load? .... possibly map sensor? 

Will keeping my timing the same and adding fuel help? Or will just pulling timing help? 

Lastly does this harmful to the engine/injectors?

Edited March 27, 20187 yr by 01dodge24v5.9
Typo

What does the canbus boost fueling table (number values) look like when I'm on level 0 or stock level?