Need to buy a trailer for work to haul large plastic storm water chambers to jobsites, 4' and 5' tall, 8' long, some 8' wide. Weight wise the most I would carry would be around 3,000lbs, but normal weekly trips would only be about 1,000lbs, plus trailer weight, towing with my 1/2 ton chevy. I could squeak by with size wise with some 7x10/12' single axles, or is it worth it to go with tandem? Looking at this trailer here below, besides getting some extra room and greater gvwr, does going from single to tandem gain me much? I usually only have 2hr commutes, sometimes 3hr. This would be my trailer that I rent out to my company, I'm debating spending the extra $1,000 for a bigger trailer. Any input would be great.

http://www.hawkestrailer.com/2018-down-2-earth-trailers-82x16-landscape-trailer-equipment-trailer-5ybg|Xqe.html

I'd get the bigger trailer.   Peace of mind knowing that the trailer can handle the load when needed.  Think of the extra $1,000 as a one time insurance payment.

tube steel
Gate that is removable
total length 18'
82"x16' usable deck
82" wide between the fenders
2-5/16" coupler
7,000 lb gvwr
1,650 lb dry weight
5,350 lb payload
(2) 3,500 lb EZ lube dexter axles (best in industry)
Electric brakes on both axles
ST205/75R15 steel wheels and radial tires
black 15" mod wheels
pressure treated wood
automotive frame paint
fully equipped with LED lights
manufacture warranty

I say go bigger. You'll be surprised how fast that 5,350 pound limit is reached. 

If in doubt always go bigger. For less than $4000 you can get a brand new 20 foot 10,000 pound car hauler. Super handy to have around even if you don't need the weight capacity. Also if these tanks are 8' wide do you plan on blocking them up so they will sit above the fenders? 

Thanks guys, tandem it is. Just need to get some other pricing and specs. I think I'll price up Mike's exact trailer 12' and 14' with the high sides and some other 12'-16' landscape trailers. Last question, how much does your standard 35-45hp diesel tractor with attachments weigh? Online I'm seeing about 3,500lbs? I definitely don't need the larger skidsteer heavy duty trailer but if a 7,000 gvwr trailer will carry a home/farm tractor with front bucket and hoe i'm all in. Another couple years and we can move to Maine with some acreage and it'll be time for tractor.    

2 hours ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

If in doubt always go bigger. For less than $4000 you can get a brand new 20 foot 10,000 pound car hauler. Super handy to have around even if you don't need the weight capacity. Also if these tanks are 8' wide do you plan on blocking them up so they will sit above the fenders? 

With an 83" wide deck I can fit everything either sideways or longways. 10,000-12,000lb equipment trailers are at least $4,500 in Taxachusetts. Might be going to tax free New Hampshire anyways to save 6.5%. 

 

8 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

Might be going to tax free New Hampshire anyways to save 6.5%

Won't   Taxachusetts  charge some kind of tax when you bring the trailer into the state and register it.  I know California would.  They did it to me when I moved here from New Hampshire. 

10 hours ago, IBMobile said:

 

Won't   Taxachusetts  charge some kind of tax when you bring the trailer into the state and register it.  I know California would.  They did it to me when I moved here from New Hampshire. 

 

I need to pay a registration fee and titling fee regardless, titling fee for anything over 3,000 lbs gvwr. I’m pretty sure thats it . However I might title in Maine at my parents address, a lot cheaper.

 

NH to CA? That’s drastic

Edited March 21, 20187 yr by CTcummins24V

They do the same here in WA. Brought a trailer and truck into WA that I had bought out of state and they charge sales tax at blue book value when you got to register and title it

Kind of like when I bought my truck I bought it Ontario, Oregon there is no taxes. So when I registered in Idaho I had to pay Idaho Sales taxes on the truck. Ughh... 

Ya that's what they told me today. Had Mikes trailer priced up in MA, the 70TV-12, $4,200 plus $152 for a spare tire, plus 6.25% tax, title and registration fee. That's almost $5,000 for tandem axle angle iron frame rated for 7,000 lbs. I priced up another Big Tex a 10' single axle rated for 3,000lbs gvwr at $2,699 plus everything else. This is depressing. 

On 3/20/2018 at 9:32 AM, CTcummins24V said:

Thanks guys, tandem it is. Just need to get some other pricing and specs. I think I'll price up Mike's exact trailer 12' and 14' with the high sides and some other 12'-16' landscape trailers. Last question, how much does your standard 35-45hp diesel tractor with attachments weigh? Online I'm seeing about 3,500lbs? I definitely don't need the larger skidsteer heavy duty trailer but if a 7,000 gvwr trailer will carry a home/farm tractor with front bucket and hoe i'm all in. Another couple years and we can move to Maine with some acreage and it'll be time for tractor.    

With an 83" wide deck I can fit everything either sideways or longways. 10,000-12,000lb equipment trailers are at least $4,500 in Taxachusetts. Might be going to tax free New Hampshire anyways to save 6.5%. 

If looking to haul a 35-48 horse tractor with a loader and hoe your looking at the 6000 to 8000 lb. range. You would need a 10000 lb . rated at minimum. If you went with a 25 to 30 horse you could probably get buy with a 7000 lb ( two 3500 lb. axles). One things for sure is when shopping for trailers you defently get what you pay for.  The cheaper end of trailers use light angle iron and cheap china made axles and tires,  you can’t go wtong with a trailer made from heavy steel and quality axles like dexter or such. I have seen some good quality trailers with 7000 lb. axles and some poor ones with the same rating that I would be reluctant to haul much more than an atv on. 

Keep an eye out on CL adds for new and used, usually a good selection from dealers and individuals.

7 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

If looking to haul a 35-48 horse tractor with a loader and hoe your looking at the 6000 to 8000 lb. range. You would need a 10000 lb . rated at minimum. If you went with a 25 to 30 horse you could probably get buy with a 7000 lb ( two 3500 lb. axles). One things for sure is when shopping for trailers you defently get what you pay for.  The cheaper end of trailers use light angle iron and cheap china made axles and tires,  you can’t go wtong with a trailer made from heavy steel and quality axles like dexter or such. I have seen some good quality trailers with 7000 lb. axles and some poor ones with the same rating that I would be reluctant to haul much more than an atv on. 

Keep an eye out on CL adds for new and used, usually a good selection from dealers and individuals.

 

Shoot. I’ve been looking at Big Tex mainly, Rice, Sure Trac, I haven’t found enough information on down 2 earth trailers out of Georgia (cheaper). 

Got my company to pay for it, picking up Mike's trailer in Maine on Monday. Big Tex 70TV-12, tandem axle, 7,000gvwr, 30" tall sides, perfect for what I need. Next question, is it critical for me to torque to spec 450 ft-lb on the 2 5/6" ball to mount? I have a 250 ft-lb wrench, then I could cheat it with my 3/4" breaker bar and a pipe? Or bring to a shop?

You can’t beet that deal,

I have never paid to much attention to torque specs on the trailer ball. It’s ususlly tight as I can get it with a couple of large pipe wrenches .

Same here. Just tight. Never lost a trailer yat.

Word of advice. Assuming it has bearing buddies, bring a grease gun and give each one a few pumps. Most new trailer bearings are installed dry then some grease is pumped through the bearing buddy. 

It has EZ lube, guy told me they are a step up from bearing buddies. Supposedly you can pump them full of grease and not blow out any seals.  

Bearing buddies are designed for boat trailers that get submerged in water they are not intend to Greese bearings, 

True greesable bearings have a hole drilled through the center of spindle and crosss drilled at the inner and outer bearings. Just a few pumps periodically is usually sufficient, as it still does not replace the need to inspect and repack bearings, depending on the use of your trailer. 

I might repack every two or three years on mine, and that’s just putting a few thousand miles a year on them.