Truck:

2001 1 ton Quad Cab 4x4 6 speed HO 24v 5.9 VP44 140k miles

So far the only mod is a Diamond Eye 4” stainless exhaust

 

Philosophy of use:

Truck is to be a safe and reliable daily driver.  Truck will also be used to tow a small camper short and long distances.  Reliability, fuel economy, and towing capability with low EGT’s are more important than a large dyno number.

 

Goal:

Reliable 24v in the 400-500hp range (Number is less important than a good running truck).

Removal of the VP44 for a more reliable system. (non negotiable)

 

Possible recipe:

Fuel Boss lift pump

VE Fuel Pump w/ dynamic timing

Unknown Injector (TBD)

BHAF

HE351VE with Arduino (open to other turbo recommendations but like the idea of a fast spooling VNT that can perform on the top end as well)

 

Questions:

Does the VE swap require a cam gear and timing case like the PPump?  Or is it just the VE gear and 1st gen cover?  (Basically a pump swap)

 

I have yet to see this swap on an 01-02 truck.  Are there any issues that I will see with this truck as opposed to older trucks?  I read something about crank sensors?h

 

Will the 1st gen cover simply bolt onto the 01-02 trucks?  No issues with harmonic balancer?

 

What are the differences in VE pumps?  I see recommendations are all over the place.  Intercooled? Non intercooled? 12mm? 14mm? Lift pump pressures?  What is right for my truck? Why?

 

Will the HE351VE w/ Arduino supply enough air for the low EGT/safe power I’m looking to make?

 

What injector should I run with that turbo/fuel pump?  What pop pressure should I run now that I’ll be running a VE pump instead of a VP?  Why?

 

THANKS!

 

On 7/8/2018 at 2:51 PM, LegendaryKing said:

Most of the time it kept pulling at the 65-70mph range in 6th gear.  Unfortunately the truck STILL has ridiculously slow acceleration. 

I would not tow up hills in 6 gear, unless you're pretty confident you're not hitting things up. 

Make sure you run at least extra quart of oil in your 6 speed.

9 hours ago, Me78569 said:

if you want 400-500 hp you need much bigger injectors than rv275's  

 

7 x .010s are the min that will get you to 400 hp without wiretap.   7 x .011's will get you more and 7 x .012's willg et you to 500.  There is no reason any of those setups will run bad or hot, assuming you choose the correct turbo.

 

If you want more than 350 hp the hx35 is out of air.  

 

I'm trying to decide if I keep it tame with rv275's or go more wild with it.

My concern is at 400-500hp is the truck still reliable?

What is the turbo selection for 400-500hp?  I was looking at the Audrino gen 4 turbo but I'm not certain that is a good choice yet.

 

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

I would not tow up hills in 6 gear, unless you're pretty confident you're not hitting things up. 

Make sure you run at least extra quart of oil in your 6 speed.

 

Heating what up?

I'm waiting on the PTO extensions to come in the mail and I'm changing to redline oil. 

By an extra quart are you recommending that to overfill the transmission to cover certain parts or simply for additional volume for extra capacity to absorb heat? 

Is this a good choice for a turbo?

http://fleeceperformance.com/dodge/1994-2002-63mm-fmw-hx35-cheetah-turbocharger-brand-new-no-core-charge.html

1 hour ago, LegendaryKing said:

My concern is at 400-500hp is the truck still reliable?

 

I can say...

• RV275
• +50 HP Injectors (Vulcan Performance)
• +75 HP Injectors (DAP)

None of them have caused me any serious issues. Yeah, I've broke a mainshaft in my transmission but everyone agrees it was a shaft defect the way it broke. RV275s are a nice bump in power but still considered a stock injector being it was used in ISB Cummins in RV applications. Now my +50 HP I had really good MPG's and good power but back then I was running an Edge Comp so my problem was smoke control. Now with the +75 HP I've got excellent power so far and the Quadzilla Adrenaline gives me great fuel to boost control and smoke is really controlled and I can build different tuners for different reasons. 

• 7 x 0.010 Injectors (next)

I'm planning in the future to get the 7 x 0.010 injectors and setting the pop pressure for 315 to 320 bar compared to stock at 310 bar. 

 

I've got to keep the truck reliable for the reason of keeping MoparMom going back and forth to dialysis treatments. Being that is said I've been studying different factors like gearing, tires sizes, timing, injectors. So as I learn more I keep adding to the website. 

Edited July 10, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

1 hour ago, LegendaryKing said:

Heating what up?

The whole  tyranny. You would be surprised how much heat you can put in the tranny in 6th gear. Especially towing. Found that out after putting a temp gauge on mine.  I also have Fass Coolers on mine. I have seen 220* on mine towing in 6th in mild hill country even with the coolers. If you put them on you need to add 2 more quarts to fill. The other extra quart is to help keep 6th gear bearings lubricated. The fluid does not get back there well on the full. I fill mine till it runs out the full hole then put the truck on a hillside and one more quart.

 

I might add that I have always towed using 6th as long as half throttle will hold the speed. Any more and I would down shift to 5th.

Edited July 10, 20186 yr by dripley

400-500 is still reliable.  Harder on the drivetrain, but not terrible.

 

7x .011's and a he351ve would be a nice setup.  I ran with 7 x .012's and it was fine but the turbo was opening up pretty good to keep from overshooting 130,000 rpm

I have 8qts in mine with a fast cooler @dripley on one side (driver) and gravity filter on the other(passenger). I filled mine through shift Tower it was much easier for me. It's filled to top side hole of pto cover. I run amsoil 5-30 synchromesh fluid, also had good luck with penzoil, just make sure whatever you use its synchromesh. 

And yes you can screw things up towing in 6th if you're working it, not only tranny but an engine if you don't have egt guage. 

On 3/20/2018 at 6:29 AM, LegendaryKing said:

 

Thank you for the information.  I'm still trying to learn Cummins/Diesel vocabulary and I have a few questions.

1. Timing cover, is this just the face plate cover or is this the entire timing case?

2. Overflow valve, is this a fuel pressure regulator?  If so is a dodge specific "overflow valve" required or can I just use a regulator of my preference?

 

 

Thank you for the reply from someone that has done the VP to VE 24v swap.  Why is the quadzilla and VP44 far more desirable to drive?

 

 

What am I going to lose in the VP44 removal?

If a VE pump can provide the fuel requirements I need to make the power I want, why would I need more volume?

 

 

This is the first I have heard of a VP equaling the reliability of a VE.  I'm not saying it's not true, I'm just saying this is the first I have heard of it.  Is there any more information out there confirming this new information?  Thanks!

In my opinion, I would stay with the vp44.  There are a lot of reputable manufacturers out there.  I have 435 hp to the rear wheels with an aftermarket vp44, 50hp injectors, ATS 3000 turbo, Edge CTS2 w/Attitude, and a smarty.  Also 5" exhaust.

Edited August 2, 20186 yr by Nicarlov

Ditch the smarty bud.  Your edge is more that capible of maxing out fueling.  If you want more low end grunt get bigger injectors.   
 

 

35 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Ditch the smarty bud.  Your edge is more that capible of maxing out fueling.  If you want more low end grunt get bigger injectors.   
 

 

I have heard that alot.  I like LendaryKing wants 500hp.  Actually I want 650.  But!  I live in C.S. which has emissions therefore I am having difficulty getting there.  I do like the idea of the Adrenaline which provides more precise tuning.  Since I am not familiar with the Quad, I am assuming I will need to remove the edge w/attitude.  I do have low rpm smoke that maybe the tuning might get rid of.

 

2 minutes ago, Nicarlov said:

I have heard that alot.  I like LendaryKing wants 500hp.  Actually I want 650.  But!  I live in C.S. which has emissions therefore I am having difficulty getting there.  I do like the idea of the Adrenaline which provides more precise tuning.  Since I am not familiar with the Quad, I am assuming I will need to remove the edge w/attitude.  I do have low rpm smoke that maybe the tuning might get rid of.

 

 

I passed emissions with 7 x .012's here in the springs  

 

 

46 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Ditch the smarty bud.  Your edge is more that capible of maxing out fueling.  If you want more low end grunt get bigger injectors.   
 

 

Actually I answered before I read your article, so no I haven't heard this before.  Outstandingarticle.  Thank you for sharing.

3 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

 

 

 

I passed emissions with 7 x .012's here in the springs  

 

 

I've seen different terminology for injectors, what does the 7x .012 mean?

Somewhere in the 200 +-25 hp area.

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

Ditch the smarty bud.  Your edge is more that capible of maxing out fueling.  If you want more low end grunt get bigger injectors.   
 

more 

Thank you again for your article.  So what I understand is I can get better efficient power from running the right size injectors over stacking tuners.  Maybe I should buy you lunch some day. :-)

Yep  big injectors make a world of difference, but some tuning will really help get the full package.   Those videos I have I was pulling ~%30 duration offidle.  The truck was no faster with or without smoke.  

6 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Yep  big injectors make a world of difference, but some tuning will really help get the full package.   Those videos I have I was pulling ~%30 duration offidle.  The truck was no faster with or without smoke.  

Thank you.

8 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Yep  big injectors make a world of difference, but some tuning will really help get the full package.   Those videos I have I was pulling ~%30 duration offidle.  The truck was no faster with or without smoke.  

Does this mean you started your canbus at 70 with 0 psi and increased from there

10 hours ago, Nicarlov said:

what does the 7x .012 mean?

 

7 - Stands for the numbers of holes in the nozzle.

0.012 - Stand for the size of one hole in thousandths of an inch. 

 

I think Stock Injectors are 7 x 0.0063 (IIRC).

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Does this mean you started your canbus at 70 with 0 psi and increased from there

It was something close to that.  

13 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

7 - Stands for the numbers of holes in the nozzle.

0.012 - Stand for the size of one hole in thousandths of an inch. 

 

I think Stock Injectors are 7 x 0.0063 (IIRC).

Thank you.  I guess I need to do some research.  I don't understand why the DDP 150hp injectors I can't use, smoke so much more than the 7x.012 (250hp).  so much so I had to take them out, now just sitting on the shelf.  I apologize, didn't mean to change the subject or take away from what LegendaryKing was trying to learn.

DDP's are known to be smokey.  

 

you are also using tuning that is %100 above oem duration.  the quadzilla allowed me to pull duration down to offset the large injectors.