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Anyone here rebuilt there hx35? I guess I’m going to attempt it myself tomorrow. Any tips or suggestions? Hope I don’t mess anything up. I plan to check for boost leaks before I rebuild it. Anyone have a diy tester they have built? 

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  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Most likely never see the smoke. Some pressure and spray bottle full of soap water mix works just fine.

  • notlimah
    notlimah

    I mean, if there’s oil in/around your turbo and I’d at least clean it and see if it comes back. How else you going to know where it came from?! Lol

  • Yes, your turbo is an HX35 @GSP7. Genuine Holset kits can be found at DAP for around $60.  Check if you have oil in the intake side. That's a sign you need seals. And any linear movement of the shaft

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  • Owner
1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

But I have to figure out the funny idle issue first in case that requires expensive parts

 

Ok. 

 

Does the idle seem normal cold and only idle weird when fully warmed up? Then does the idle change if you barely feed throttle and go away?

  • Author
Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ok. 

 

Does the idle seem normal cold and only idle weird when fully warmed up? Then does the idle change if you barely feed throttle and go away?

It’s sounds more like rattle than anything. Does not sound like when I had air in fuel issues. It still seems to rattle when cold and warm so I’m thinking I need to redo valve lash and go from there. I would say that it is more noticeable after it’s warm.

  • Owner
Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

It still seems to rattle when cold and warm so I’m thinking I need to redo valve lash and go from there.

Good bet I would start there..

  • Author

On a side note that boost elbow from DAP had a set screw in the end. What’s up with that? Is it an adjustment screw?

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Good bet I would start there..

Seems wierd becuase I did the valves 2 months ago. Half tempted to have local mechanic do it this time. Iv done it 4 times now and haven’t got it perfect I don’t think  lol. :mad:

Here’s something wierd. I’m almost positive that since I replaced the map I have a lot more smoke! Definitely more than therebused to be I think but who knows?

  • Owner

Too many people get in a hurry and do weird things on valve lash adjustments. When you are setting the valve lash it should be done on a COLD engine. Now when the jam nut is loosened you want to tighten the set screw (Allen Wrench) till the screw is just touching  the feeler gauge. Then the feeler gauge should slide in and out with the slightest resistance. Here is the tough part the jam nut has to be tightened without moving you setting. This takes a bit of thinking to do. If the setting feels slight tight you'll be twisting the set screw slightly loosen as your tightening the jam nut. Reverse applies if the setting is a bit loose you can twist the set screw slightly tight as you tighten the jam nut. Typically I go back and forth several times till I'm happy. 

 

Now the one time I was in a hurry I install the DAP injectors +75HP SAC's and while the valve cover was off I did a quick valve lash. Then grabbed my torque wrench and set it for 20 Foot/pounds and ran the jam nuts. That was a mistake. The one that did turn ever so slightly without holding the set screw end up pulling the adjustment too tight. So it created a lopey / rough idle on my truck when hot. Later when I check the lash again I couldn't get a 0.010 or 0.008 in the intakes on a few cylinders and 0.020 or 0.018 on a few exhaust valves. After re-running and taking my time it fixed the lopey / rough idle. 

7 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

On a side note that boost elbow from DAP had a set screw in the end. What’s up with that? Is it an adjustment screw?

Seems wierd becuase I did the valves 2 months ago. Half tempted to have local mechanic do it this time. Iv done it 4 times now and haven’t got it perfect I don’t think  lol. :mad:

It's an adjustable boost elbow. You turn the screw in to help keep the wastegate closed longer in turn building more boost. I would suggest checking that screw for boost leaks as well. Were the injectors new or used when you installed them? I didn't look back in all the threads to see but if they were used I would recommend getting them re-popped. 

59 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm sure he would like to just... :spank:

The thought has come to mind. I think have RV's rebuilt and put them back in for now. They were pretty clean with the Comp until I make another swap over. The Banks was good power for me at the time. But it sucked when it died. Lost all but my fuel pressure gauge. Remedied that one though with stand alone gauges. The Comp was a big step up and then like you say the Quad came out not long after I bought the Comp. Just my luck. The good thing is I got to watch ya'll work a lot of the bugs out. So for now we tide with the Comp.

  • Author
23 minutes ago, BBHD said:

It's an adjustable boost elbow. You turn the screw in to help keep the wastegate closed longer in turn building more boost. I would suggest checking that screw for boost leaks as well. Were the injectors new or used when you installed them? I didn't look back in all the threads to see but if they were used I would recommend getting them re-popped. 

Brand new from DAP less than 1k milesnon them. Yea I’ll crank that screw up tight. 

 

You want to see somewhere around 34 35 pounds max. Any thing over is detrimental. Might be hard to get if you still have any boost leaks.

Edited by dripley

  • Author
5 minutes ago, dripley said:

You want to see somewhere around 34 35 pounds max. Any thing over is detrimental. Might be hard to get if you still have any boost leaks.

Need to reinforce my leak tester cuz it kept blowing off but I didn’t find anymore. Pressured to 20psi

2 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Need to reinforce my leak tester cuz it kept blowing off but I didn’t find anymore. Pressured to 20psi

My tester will do that too. I just put a piece of wood between the end and something solid on the truck, Keeps it there. Dont forget to check the turbo and intake manifold cover.

  • Author
2 minutes ago, dripley said:

My tester will do that too. I just put a piece of wood between the end and something solid on the truck, Keeps it there. Dont forget to check the turbo and intake manifold cover.

Oops I didn’t check the intake cover. I need to test some more.

can you use a smoke machine to test for leaks fill with smoke and then maybe presureize to 20 or so psi ??

  • Author

More I think about it more I think the idle issue is fuel related. Can’t make up my mind what it would be. 

I’ll get a video of it idling

  • Owner
9 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

More I think about it more I think the idle issue is fuel related.

 

That only leaves replacing injectors. Highly doubt its a VP44.

  • Author
6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That only leaves replacing injectors. Highly doubt its a VP44.

Thinking about doing a reinstall. I don’t want to but if it will fix things I’ll do it. It’s got to be a screw up on my part when I installed them.

  • Author

Finnaly got the chance to compare my isle with another 24 valve. Seen a guy in the gas station and hit him up. His truck idles a fair amount smoother than mine. What can this be?