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So it's been this way for a while, but recently seems to have become more noticable. I live off the freeway, so in the morning on my way to work, I am accelerating up the freeway on ramp, usually mildly, and it's like I hit dead spots in acceleration,  adding more go pedal will accelerate, but unless I romp into it more aggressively,  I'll hit those dead spots until I'm up to speed. Now I notice it even If the truck is warm and on flat ground from light to light. 

 

Other thing that may go with it ...

If I'm driving say 55-60 in fifth around 2k rpm and going slightly downhill,  I'll use the motor to slow me down, but I keep slight pressure on the pedal to keep at a steady speed(so that I'm not slowing down to much.) When it's in that between state I guess I'll call it, where its coasting or adding fuel, it's like it can't decide what to do, you can hear the motor start adding fuel and then not quickly alternating back and forth( it doesn't cause extreme bucking or anything like that, maybe slight, rpms don't change, its just doesn't sound right to me. My dad's truck doesn't do that, really no vehicle I've driven has. 

 

-My ac noise is .03.

-I've done a re-calibration before, it may have temporarily helped. 

-No codes thrown

-the truck has surged a few times very intermittently when cruise is set, it seems to do it when the ac is on?

 

I'm not super techy when it comes to electrical things either, I have a volt meter, but that doesn't mean I know how to use it lol

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

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  • Ed ke6bnl
    Ed ke6bnl

    if it is anything like a throttle position sensor on must cars I use a lab scope that has its screen on the computer can be had for as low as $60 HANTEK and it will save a buffer of what you are doing

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Don't do it. We've got the Timbo's APPS right here in the store.     It a true electronics free APPS sensor totally mechanical.

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Timbo's APPS... All mechanical no electronics.    Stock APPS... (IVS is all electronic)   Wells APPS (magnetic but still electronic for both TPS and IVS signals)

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  • Author

If the absolute throttle drops along with engine load, then isn't that an issue with the throttle?

 

The absolute throttle climbs and drops way slower than throttle, its inaccurate, but you can still see it drop. The picture below is an example. The load drops to zero during a shift and it takes seconds for it to register the throttle dropped. It's only happens on the log, it drops right away when I let off the pedal. (Hope that made sense)

 

Everytime I experience the surge or deal spot problem, the engine load drops, BUT so does the absolute throttle, it just takes a second to register on the data log. 

 

I hope it's not the ecm, but if it is, then what can you do. I'm guna try what @dripley said with the wires and see what that does.

 

I don't want to throw unnecessary money away, but I'd almost just throw a timbo on it to see what happens before dropping a lot more to rebuild a ecm unless its 100% the ecm that's the problem 

20180531_114535.jpg

1 hour ago, KATOOM said:

 

Does your CRD stand for Chronic Respiratory Disease.....or Cant Remember D***?  Because I know I suffer from the second one.

It was supposed to be CRS. I believe both can be interchanged though. Bad enough to have it but this damn tablet is smarter than me and keeps changing what I type. 

  • Author

I tried the ecm wire trick, it didn't work.

If ac noise is the cause, then .035 is not acceptable level, that's where it's at.

 

So how can I test the ecm to see if it's the problem then?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

I thought I would give an update.

 

Tuesday, my radiator cracked , on the plastic part on the side go figure, so I took it to a shop and they put a new one in, would have done it myself, but I work and needed it back asap, had to special order it from the auto parts store. I told the mechanic about my throttle issues, unfortunately,  and of course, they couldn't get it to replicate itself.

I got it back, and it ran perfect. Like it hasn't run so smooth in forever, I cant remember when. I asked if they did a re-learn on the apps, and the guy said he wasnt sure, didn't bother asking the mechanic what he did, but whatever. I'm confident the problem is the app sensor, but I'm gonna run it until it starts acting up. I want to say it may not start giving me problems until the grid heaters start being used again this fall.

My ac noise is in the tolerable range, .03, but when The grids kick on, maybe it's a different story. I'll make sure to keep this updated as time progresses, either way, a timbo is going to be the best route in the end

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Another update and a question

 

Update: after a week, the throttle issues came back. During this time, the mornings were cold enough to cause the grids to kick on. So I did a throttle reset by pulling battery cables and disconnected the grid heaters. Again, truck ran very smooth. About a week later, I started noticing some issues, but it didn't set on as quickly as before, probably because I disconnected the grids this time. It's been almost 3 weeks since I did a reset, and the throttle is back to being crappy. 

 

Question(s)

If I'm having these issues now, is a timbo gonna do any good? It seems like an ac noise problem, but it test in the tolerable range

 

If it is a ac  noise issue, then does that mean .03 is to much for certain electronics on these trucks? My guess is the grids kicking on cause a much higher ac noise reading, and even though it's on for a short time, it could be enough over time to cause issues. Not just the grids, bit anytime I have a higher demand from the alternator (start up) it seems to be affecting the throttle in just a  short time after a reset.

 

This is all guessing, I'm not electrically inclined at all. Any help is appreciated.  Thank you guys

 you still have factory apps I would definitely get a Timbo it's here in store on this site. Grid's do cause issues by overloading the alternator, @Mopar1973Man has proved that now beyond shadow of a doubt in my mind. Some members here don't even use them anymore and just plug block heater in, or you can always get an aftermarket alternator that is capable to keep up with demand. Some other mods might be required to do that.

0.03 is where I was almost at before doing round mod, now I'm at 0.018 but .03 should not cause any problems for the most part

  • Owner
11 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

is a timbo gonna do any good?

 

Timbo's APPS is the only fully mechanical APPS sensor with NO ELECTRONICS! All mechanical switch and rheostat. No logic electronics for controlling the IVS switches. So yes Timbos is a huge improvement over a a stock APPS or a Wells APPS.

 

11 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

It seems like an ac noise problem, but it test in the tolerable range

 

Might still be a bad alternator diode or brush pack. I would look into doing the gorund wire mod for the system that @W-T posted in the articles. If that's confusing then my version of W-T article is on the second page (simplified).

  • Author

Sounds good. So even if I am having some ac issues with throttle where its messing with the signal, the mechanical timbo will pretty much take care of that and it wont be an issue then?I mean that I wont have to keep re learning the throttle position for the ecm every couple weeks?