I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... 

 

and what about this bango bolt on the back of the head I’m hearing about... I just took it off... I can’t tell if it’s leaking at all but the rubber around the brass washers is completely gone... and was not at all very tight

are you using it as the power source instead of the alternator? is the relay harness still plugged into the ecm pigtail? my curiosity is getting the best of me.

 

2 hours ago, dripley said:

is the relay harness still plugged into the ecm pigtail?

 

That is my question too! Something doesn't seem right. The ECM should be pulsing that fuel pump when it cranking. 

 

 

2 hours ago, dripley said:

are you using it as the power source instead of the alternator? is the relay harness still plugged into the ecm pigtail? my curiosity is getting the best of me.

 

I posted a reply earlier... I don’t know why it didn’t go thru... but anyways... the pigtail is still hooked to the ecm... what I did, I removed the positive and neg wires from the airdog a wiring harness from back of the alternator to a hot that cuts power when the truck is turning over, and I secured the neg wire to the body... I’m sure it’s not the proper thing to do but I can’t figure out what’s going on, but now it starts and runs no problem...  I hope there are no detrimental effects the way I wired it up, but it simply would not start when the pos wire was hooked to a constant hot, and I need my truck for work, I can wait for my gauge to come in, but I won’t be able to put it in until next weekend, I’ll keep every one posted on my many adventures with this truck

Also, I forgot to add, the airdog positive wire has an inline fuse built in, so I would think, if anything happens, worse case scenario I blow the inline fuse

Not good. I would leave the power wires hooked to +12V and ground not switching. You most likely dropping all fuel pressure while running. I would get a fuel pressure gauge first thing and then once you know fuel pressure you might find out it just too high and no wiring mods will be needed.

i fully understand having to have the truck on the road. I travel for work and have to be there. It does not leave me much time at home for much of anything and some weeks I dont get home. Some times sacrifices have to be made.

 I dont see why what you have will hurt anything. The big thing to me is keeping the ECM in control of the lift pump just for safety sake. I would however like to know what is going on that is stopping it from cranking while on a constant hot. Something odd there. I also know if this was happening to me and I have to be at work Monday morning, I would do what I had to to get there. If it makes you feel any better I have remote starter switch hanging on the tilt wheel adjuster since my ignition switch does not want to power the starter sometimes. Gets me by for now. I have the week after next off and hope to chase that and catch up on some other things.

 Get you a fuel pressure gauge in there and then you see whats going on for sure.

 

 

Edited July 30, 20186 yr by dripley

34 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

That is my question too! Something doesn't seem right. The ECM should be pulsing that fuel pump when it cranking. 

When I get my gauge installed I will know more I guess... if it turns out my ecm is not pulsing, (because it did this with the rock auto lift pump). Will I need a new ecm?

Not sure yet. The video above is how to test for it. Basically, pull the Fuel Pump Relay in the PDC this shuts down power to the VP44 so it never starts. Now you can crank on it and watch the fuel pressure gauge and see what is going on. But... Sadly you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to verify with. 

After reading @Mopar1973Man response I guess I am assuming that your pump is running while the engine is. I am also assuming that you should have decent with the new as long as it is running.  I ran mine for years without a gauge. Not the best thing to do but I knew no better at the time. so there is some risk.

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

But... Sadly you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to verify with. 

Is there such thing as a tee connection with a  Schrader valve on top, if so I could put my pressure tester on that, I know it exist, I just don’t know what to call it.

1 minute ago, dripley said:

After reading @Mopar1973Man response I guess I am assuming that your pump is running while the engine is. I am also assuming that you should have decent with the new as long as it is running.  I ran mine for years without a gauge. Not the best thing to do but I knew no better at the time. so there is some risk.

It is... I could hear it when I crawled underneath, and that reminds me it was kinda warm too, I’m thinking that is normal because I drive an 18 wheeler for my day job and during the summer and when I wear shorts, and my legs touch the tanks, they are hot as hell

Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance he sells that stuff for fuel lines and connectors. 

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance he sells that stuff for fuel lines and connectors. 

Will do, thanks

I got all of this from Eric when hooking up my FP gauge. He can hook you up with what ever.

It is a tapped coupling installed in the big line kit. You could put most anything into.it.

Eric at Vulcan is a good guy. I have been to his place 4 times over the years and all I can say is what a great person he is to deal with. Has the smartest systems and set ups out of all IMHO.