I saw a video the other day thats been going around on Instagram, of a single cab newer Duramax running away and I got to thinking..... That is the 5th video I've seen of a duramax running away and blowing itself up in the last 6 months or so and I havent seen a Cummins (unless someone was tuning a VE) or a PowerJoke run away and grenade itself. Is this starting to be a common problem with them? Are the Borg Warners that they use a bad turbo? What do you guys think? I just see it as another reason to NOT buy one and another vehicle to Cummins swap. 

CR Injectors just assume to have $3,000 ready every 100k miles. 

 

The last truck I had her at 112k miles it ate the engine. Numbers 5 and 6 ate the pistons and rings. Won't run but required a full engine rebuild. I got a pup in town with a 2006 truck I keep warning him that the grid heater light being on is a warning for bad injectors and excess return flow rate you need injectors. Nope still driving it... I'm just waiting for another meltdown or runaway.

 

This is one reason I'm hanging on tight to my 24V. At least VP44 are just $1,000 buck every 250k miles and injectors are cheap at $400 for a set. People whine about how bad it was and VP44 dropping dead, blah, blah, blah... Now the 24V doesn't look too bad. 

Edited June 28, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

8 hours ago, notlimah said:

450k on CR injectors seems like 4-5x over when they should’ve been replaced no?

For heavy duty common rail diesel engines like the Cummins ISX and Detroit DD series engines they seem to fail around 450,000 miles so I would say preventive maintenance wise to replace injectors every 400,000 miles. OTR trucks typically see 150,000 to 200,000 a year. 

 

For the Common Rail light duty ISB I would say preventive maintenance injector replacement every 100,000 miles.

 

Also be careful with Regen after  injector failures. It's very easy to get the DPF and SCR too hot ruining their function after injector failures dumping a ton of fuel down the exhaust.

Unless the ECM tuning has been altered putting a brick on the pedal won't cause it to run away and grenade itself. 

16 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

Unless the ECM tuning has been altered putting a brick on the pedal won't cause it to run away and grenade itself. 

That's what I was thinking as well, there's no way it would run away with a brick on the pedal..... Plus if that was the case why was the brick on the pedal?!

Forgive me for a silly question, why can't a shut down butterfly be installed in the intake tube that you can pull closed with a cable control in the cab? 

7 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Forgive me for a silly question, why can't a shut down butterfly be installed in the intake tube that you can pull closed with a cable control in the cab? 

 

Yes you can. 

2 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

Yes you can. 

If it worked, then why hasnt it been done and tutorials arent out there? Or are there?

It would be a good modification for our trucks.

 

Mopies engine safety shut down kit.... $69.95 

 

5 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

It would be a good modification for our trucks.

 

Mopies engine safety shut down kit.... $69.95 

Is this a real thing??

My though was a sliding plate on top of the grid heater with a cable. It seems it might be easier to seal and not reduce or disturb the air flow.

Good thought. Like a thin slide guide that bolts in between grid heater/ intake tube. Have to be good seal so no whistle or leaks. 

 

Or something that fits in place of the intake boot.

1 minute ago, JAG1 said:

Good thought. Like a thin slide guide that bolts in between grid heater/ intake tube. Have to be good seal so no whistle or leaks. 

 

Or something that fits in place of the intake boot.

Or a flap like an jake brake between the boot and intake horn.

53 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

If it worked, then why hasnt it been done and tutorials arent out there? Or are there?

 

They are out there, and required for certain classes of drag racing. 

 

One example

 

https://pacbrake.com/product-types/valves/

Those are very high quality and PacBrake is a good company. I don't know what they are doing to insure the two screws don't go loose and sucked into the intake. I think Michael Nelson could look into becoming one of their dealers for this site.

 

Thank You AH64ID Michael needs more sales to help take care of MoparMom.

48 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Those are very high quality and PacBrake is a good company. I don't know what they are doing to insure the two screws don't go loose and sucked into the intake. I think Michael Nelson could look into becoming one of their dealers for this site.

 

Thank You AH64ID Michael needs more sales to help take care of MoparMom.

Probably red locktite-ed on there to ensure it doesnt wiggle loose. Definitely being put on my list for both of my trucks. 

Most sled pullers beyond the work stock class run these.  Spring loaded guillotine specifically designed to smother a turbo

Edited June 28, 20186 yr by trreed

1 minute ago, trreed said:

Most sled pullers beyond the work stock class run these.  Spring loaded guillotine specifically designed to smother a turbo

Where can you get one of these fine pieces of machinery?

Various places.  Infinite Performance offers one I think.  Maybe Stainless Diesel or Schied.

The 6.7 ISB engines have a throttle valve inline in the CAC tube on the intake side of engine. Its main purpose is to shut causing engine to run purely on EGR air during Regen to create more heat. It electronically controlled and possibly could be rigged to shut with the flip of a switch.

 

But the only down side of that is engine could still get air through the EGR. Plus I've seen a few run away common rails run backwards to where the exhaust becomes the intake and vise versa. That'll plug an air filter quick.

15 minutes ago, trreed said:

Various places.  Infinite Performance offers one I think.  Maybe Stainless Diesel or Schied.

For $700 I think I'll opt for the nice PacBrake one thats only $100 more and a lot cleaner.

 

10 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

The 6.7 ISB engines have a throttle valve inline in the CAC tube on the intake side of engine. Its main purpose is to shut causing engine to run purely on EGR air during Regen to create more heat. It electronically controlled and possibly could be rigged to shut with the flip of a switch.

 

But the only down side of that is engine could still get air through the EGR. Plus I've seen a few run away common rails run backwards to where the exhaust becomes the intake and vise versa. That'll plug an air filter quick.

Won't have to worry about that, our '12 is getting a full delete soon!