I know that you guys have said that the HX35W is the turbo to get, but my HY35 has worked well for 250K. I currently have 100HP injectors, 5" exhaust, Air Dog, HBAF, and low fuel pressure light. I do not have an EGT sensor or tuner, and tow a camper and bass boat, so I am slightly worried about my EGT's, but figured the 5" exhaust would help keep those in check. SO, do I rebuild the HY35, or spend the big bucks to get a HX35W, as I can't seem to find them used with low miles. 

Oh the current HY35 has oil leaking on the intake side, so I am pretty sure it is toast.

 

Thanks

2 hours ago, Brianh said:

figured the 5" exhaust would help keep those in check.

 

No, it won't. It about restriction the HY35W turbo is a 9cm² exhaust housing max boost of 30-32 PSI where the HX35W is a 12cm² exhaust housing and max boost of 35 PSI. Since the HY35W is more choked in the turbine housing its more prone to EGT issues regardless of the exhaust pipe size. Exhaust after that point has zero bearing being I ran 3-inch exhaust for over 12 years on HX35W turbo. Even upgrading to 4inch exhaust there was no EGT's change at all really.

 

The biggest thing to lose EGT's is being able to advance timing with Quadzilla. Running about 19-21* worth of cruise timing I can cruise at 55 MPH at as low as 450*F EGT's and 65 MPH at about 550*F EGT's. Still in all 3 or 4 inch exhaust nets the same EGT's values and there is no real gain to 5 inch till you over 600 HP.

 

Like I've got two turbos The stock HX35W (54/60/12) which stands for 54mm compressor wheel, 60 mm turbine wheel and 12cm² housing. Then I've got the Hybrid 35/40 (60/60/12) which is close to most people favorites like a (62/68/12). As you can see they all are 12cm² exhaust housing but flow rates are greatly improved.

 

As for rebuild kits you can get them for good price from DAP. (DieselAutoPower.com) .

Edited July 1, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

Thanks for the info. I will get a hx35w for sure then. Any info on where to buy them new. I will probably give DAP a call tomorrow as that was the company that I purchased the injectors from. Not sure if I am ready to get into the Quadzilla quite yet as I had issues with codes when putting on the stepped down version a couple years ago. Tried troubleshooting the code for low voltage and couldn't find the cause.

 

 

My hy35 is so rusted that i couldn't get the thing seperated. But pointless if it is not going to work.

 

Edited July 1, 20186 yr by Brianh

2 minutes ago, Brianh said:

Not sure if I am ready to get into the Quadzilla quite yet as I had issues with codes when putting on the stepped down version a couple years ago.

The only code that it would be is MAP sensor. That is the only sensor it bypasses. Most likely a bad boost fooler. 

 

13 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The only code that it would be is MAP sensor. That is the only sensor it bypasses. Most likely a bad boost fooler. 

 

I bet the boost fooler sent in to quadzilla and they said it was good. Tried it on a buddies truck and he didnt get the codes. So i assumed it was an electrical issue with my truck.

Let me know if there are preferred vendors to get a turbo from.

Edited July 1, 20186 yr by Brianh
Spelling

Probably a good idea to get fuel pressure and EGT gauges. 

52 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Probably a good idea to get fuel pressure and EGT gauges. 

I have the fuel pressure idiot light but will be getting an egt also installed. Do most of you guys use the pod mount?

18 minutes ago, Brianh said:

I have the fuel pressure idiot light but will be getting an egt also installed. Do most of you guys use the pod mount?

My gauges in "A" pillar pod mount.  

My fuel pressure light used to come at 5 psi.  Not good and got me in $$$ trouble.  Now comes on when below 15 psi.  I changed pressure switch.  Mine is 24 valve.  Not sure what you if have.  I'm just up by seatac.  I see you are close.

Edited July 1, 20186 yr by 015point9

After installing the RV 275 injectors and quad xzt, I used a turnbuckle on my hy35 to get more boost, (it will be replaced with an hx35 soon)) with that I can get 30 psi of boost but my egt will go through the roof if I’m not careful on the skinny pedal. In a nut shell though I would not attempt it without a full set of gauges,  boost, trans temp, egt, and fuel psi.  I got 3 on the pillar and 1 on the column,  

I done the best thing... ISSPro EV2 gauge with programmable warning lights. My fuel pressure gauge warning light comes on at 13 PSI. 

 

 

 

That looks good.  I am going to do the same. Not looking forward to running all of the connections, but something I have been putting off. 

Not hard at all. I've run both the mechanical gauges which are just tubing for the boost and fuel pressure and then the electric gauges now. I prefer the electrics for the ease of install versus all the tubing worry about leaks and so people get carried away with stainless steel lines.  I ran air brake lines for quite long time on my old mechanical gauges no issues.

 

Now with my ISSPro EV2 electric gauges been troublefree. I like the idea of the programmable warning light and the programmable relay option. An example would be automatic transmission truck has the warning light set for 220*F and then the relay set for 190*F so it turns on a cooling fan up front. 

 

 

Like I've set up a remote sensor mount. This way if I'm questioning the pressure reading I can easily remove the sensor add a tee now stack in a mechanical gauge to verify the reading. This is much easier set up than the typical person that has the sensor in the intake manifold for boost and down at the VP44. The distance from the fuel source is a dampening effect and protects the sensor from damage. Even this setup is using 1/8" air brake line and PTC (Push To Connect) fittings with 5 feet of distance from the tap point. 

On 7/1/2018 at 3:47 PM, 015point9 said:

My gauges in "A" pillar pod mount.  

My fuel pressure light used to come at 5 psi.  Not good and got me in $$$ trouble.  Now comes on when below 15 psi.  I changed pressure switch.  Mine is 24 valve.  Not sure what you if have.  I'm just up by seatac.  I see you are close.

I am located in Puyallup, and I too have a 24 valve. Ordered a 3 gauge autometer pod mount, along with 2 ISSPRO EV2 gauges, (1 tranny temp, PYRO gauge)  and 1 dual air pressure gauge for both boost and fuel pressure. Hopefully it covers all of them. I know the quality of the dual pressure gauge is not the best, but I think it will work OK. 

Edited July 3, 20186 yr by Brianh

Pyro probe... pic on here somewhere that seems to be best spot to drill and tap.

 

(found link but can't find actual pic)  Link is geno's.   Second page

 

https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosgarage.com/downloads/InstallPDF/GGInstall-DG-GaugeInstallTips94-02.pdf  

 

Really helpful bunch on here if you get stuck.

Edited July 3, 20186 yr by 015point9
add info

2 hours ago, 015point9 said:

Pyro probe... pic on here somewhere that seems to be best spot to drill and tap.

 

(found link but can't find actual pic)  Link is geno's.   Second page

 

https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosgarage.com/downloads/InstallPDF/GGInstall-DG-GaugeInstallTips94-02.pdf  

 

Really helpful bunch on here if you get stuck.

Very helpful, thanks for the info. I will be able to tap the manifold before installing the new turbo also to avoid any shavings.

 Amazing how much money I am putting in this old truck, but I think that it will be good for another 250K. 

13 minutes ago, Brianh said:

that it will be good for another 250K

 

More like 1 million miles if taken care properly. Like @cajflynn he the site million mile truck. 1.3 million be closer.

Same here.  But the price of new ones scares me more.  Just tax is over 5 grand.  State can survive without me buying a new one. 

 

You might want to fill in signature line that lists what you have including mods.  When you ask something people can give better answers if they know what you have.  Just my 2 cents

3rd Gen (2003 and above) just assume to have $4,000 every 100k mile miles to replace the injectors. So to make 1 million if it would make that far would cost $40,000...

 

2nd Gen (1998.5 to 2002) figure on having $1,100 every 200k miles for new injection pump and $400 every 100k miles for injectors. It been proven many times that our old 24V crossing 1 million miles so that would cost $9,500...

 

Heck of a lot cheaper, in the long run, to keep your 24V then buying a CR engine.

 

My Wife can't stand the truck, but she puts up with it because of the cost for another.