Have a 2000 5 speed 24v. Edge juice with attitude, 3.55s, 33” tires with leveling kit, fass150, getting poor mileage and not driving hard at all. Avg 13 hand calculated. Have dead pedal frequently, will last 5-10 sometimes 15 seconds then pedal will come back. CEL came off ran code p0237 low voltage. Checked some grounds, ran great for 2 weeks. Dead pedal came back no CEL. Changed map sensor still no help. Went over grounds again all look good. Truck has new batteries and all new terminals within past 6 months. 

15 hours ago, Jeubank84 said:

Have a 2000 5 speed 24v. Edge juice with attitude, 3.55s, 33” tires with leveling kit, fass150, getting poor mileage and not driving hard at all. Avg 13 hand calculated. Have dead pedal frequently, will last 5-10 sometimes 15 seconds then pedal will come back. CEL came off ran code p0237 low voltage. Checked some grounds, ran great for 2 weeks. Dead pedal came back no CEL. Changed map sensor still no help. Went over grounds again all look good. Truck has new batteries and all new terminals within past 6 months. 

I held of responding to this hoping for some other input. I have experienced some similar issues without a solution yet. I would ask this. The dead pedal issue, does it go completely dead as in the engine goes to idle and no resonse?

 

 My experience, bear with me, started with engine surging and dead pedal as described above. I also had a couple TPS codes to go with it. I replaced the TPS to no avail. During this I also got a stray MAP sensor code a couple times. One day I decided to install my OE one to see if the MAP sensor might have something to do with it. Well it broke that one and had to re install the one that was in there. The surging stopped and no more dead pedal. To me the only thing I did was mess with the wiring harness while plugging and un plugging the sensor and had one of my hands jammed in around the ECM.

 

 Fast forward several months and I started having an issue that generated a 237 code and a large loss of power, very little throttle response no matter how far I depressed the pedal. That's why I asked the question above. Mine would accelarate but very slowly. Does the Juice have any way of monitoring the MAP sensor? My scan gauge II does and i did notice that when this happens the MAP signal was dropping out. So went back in and manipulated the MAP harness and the harness at the ECM. Problem solved. No surging, no MAP signal loss.

 

 That worked for a out a month then the MAP signal started dropping out again but more like a loose wire this time. Just in and out randomly like a bad connection. It did show on the scan gauge though. This time I went in and just grabbed the wiring harness at the ECM. Problem gone until last week. Another grab of the harnes and gone again.

 

 Sorry for the delayed and long response, I just don't know away to explain that briefly. I figure is in the wiring harnes or maybe a connector pin, I just don't know. I would give your wiring harness at the ECM a good squeeze and a wiggle and see what happens. I just cant seem to find the time to check my harness out properly. There is a sensor ground splice in that part of the harness that could be the issue but I don't know that for sure.

 

 

Edited July 25, 20186 yr by dripley

I may have found the culprit. My wifes car acted similar a few years back with the loss of power and bucking and jumping, (no dead pedal though). Sooooooo I remembered what her issue was once we found it. 

I unplugged the sensor from the edge that plugs into the map on the intake and there was a small piece of corrosion on one of the prongs. I cleaned it then sprayed quite a bit of electronic cleaner on it. You can tell by the discoloration there is still corrosion on all the prongs on both sides. I have a feeling that may be the issue. It ran great for about 5 miles, seen more boost and fuel pressure was a touch higher than it has been with the issue. Still have the same symptoms.

Are the factory map pigtails the same as on the edge juice? If so i will order one and splice into it and see if that cures it.

I simple thing to do is just disconnect the Juice completely and return it to stock form and see if that cures the problem. My 02 MAP has an odd connector not seen on the 00's and requires an adapter harness to work. I disconnected my Comp and the problem persisted. That's why I think mine is somewhere in the harness. But i will say electronics is my weak spot.

Electronics arent my strong suit either. I will unplug the juice and give that a try, Its an older box but I know people have ran them for several years and not had issues. 

Mine is about 4 years old and was not the problem. You have to disconnected it completely. Unplug everything to be sure. Not hard to do.

You need to go through your truck with some dielectric grease on all the multi plugs and cycle them a few times to make sure you get it all over the prongs. Then do the ground mods that everyone has been doing and just check all your wires in genital. Weak loose connections cause a lot of problems

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

genital

Where is spell check when you need it?

What ground mods is the happening thing ?

 

 

 

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Where is spell check when you need it?

Oh man, I even reread it before submitting, it's getting out of control now ha ha

Went to the parts store and got some dielectric grease this morning. Think I got all the plugs cocvered. I cycled them a few times to make sure they got covered, but still having the same issue. It actually feels like it bucking and jumping worse than it was. I'm thinking possibly a weak ground somewhere. The first time I took it to the shop the guy thought it was the APPS. he said he checked it and it checked good. I dont know what the readings were. It dodnt fix it, so I took it back and he said the was a loose connection on a ground. It ran great for about 3-4 weeks. Then the problem returned, and here we are. 

Is your apps original, if so get a timbo one it's all mechanical, way cheaper, and works way better.

 

 

Also oil pressure sensor on rare ocasion can go bad causing short in a 5v loop. I was chasing some problems myself and changed it just because.

I may be off track with finding a solution to your trouble, but I am very interested in knowing what your A/C ripple levels are.... if you could test and report back I would appreciate it very much 

Edited July 26, 20186 yr by JAG1

15 hours ago, Jeubank84 said:

Went to the parts store and got some dielectric grease this morning. Think I got all the plugs cocvered. I cycled them a few times to make sure they got covered, but still having the same issue. It actually feels like it bucking and jumping worse than it was. I'm thinking possibly a weak ground somewhere. The first time I took it to the shop the guy thought it was the APPS. he said he checked it and it checked good. I dont know what the readings were. It dodnt fix it, so I took it back and he said the was a loose connection on a ground. It ran great for about 3-4 weeks. Then the problem returned, and here we are. 

I think you are on the right track. Mine is behaving exactly like yours. I squeeze and manipulate the wiring harness at the ECM and mine goes away. I just cant find the time to open it up or trouble shot it yet. I new APPS nor MAP sensor fixed it. Only me messing with the harness has helped me. I dont know if its in the harness or maybe one of the connectors. Still a mystery for me also.

 

@Dieselfuture I remember reading about the about issues with the oil pressure sensor/switch. The 02 wiring diagrams show 3 wires going to it, orange=5v signal, BLK\LT BLU=sensor ground, gray/BLK EOP SW SENS on pin 6 at the ECM. my spare harness only has the GRAY/BLK to pin six. The connector has only space for 2 wires and one is plugged. Seems strange. But mine is just a switch, earlier models are a sender. Not sure which years are which though.

5 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Also oil pressure sensor on rare ocasion can go bad causing short in a 5v loop. I was chasing some problems myself and changed it just because.

 

I’m the same way, haven’t had time to do the ground mod yet. I’m hoping it’s a loose connection somewhere. When it was in the shop and the mechanic said he found one it ran great for about 2-2.5 weeks then same issue. So I think it’s a weak connection somewhere, just have to find time to trace it all down and rewire.

3 hours ago, Jeubank84 said:

I’m the same way, haven’t had time to do the ground mod yet. I’m hoping it’s a loose connection somewhere. When it was in the shop and the mechanic said he found one it ran great for about 2-2.5 weeks then same issue. So I think it’s a weak connection somewhere, just have to find time to trace it all down and rewire.

I did W-T's ground mod a couple months ago and that did not fix mine. Glad I did it however. It is worth the 2 hours or so to do it. 

 

My squeezes of the harness work but it does come back. I will probably start with the sensor ground splice, but I think I would be having other issues if it is in there. Or maybe it is just the MAP ground that is coming loose first, who knows.

Well fingers crossed I may have found the issue. I’m still going to do the ground mod when I get time. I took the air filter out to clean it, and there is a tiny ground behind my afe airbox that was loose. I cleaned the surface and tightened it up and have driven it for 30 miles and have yet to have an issue. Hopefully that was the problem. 

11 hours ago, Jeubank84 said:

I cleaned the surface and tightened it up and have driven it for 30 miles and have yet to have an issue.

 

Be careful on removing paint. I'm now starting to see people get into new issues of clean the paint off to bare metal and now have a rusting ground point which is worse. Typically I clean the ring terminal with a scotch brite pad and then just tighten down the fastener again to keep from exposing metal and creating a rust point.

I’ve heard of that also. The ground wasn’t actually bolted to the fender it was screwed to the metal airbox. The paint had chipped off all around it and had a little rust so I just knocked it off 

Sometimes if I'm concerned about rust after cleaning a ground like under frame someplace I paint it with few coats. Connection is already made and there is no way paint will get in between ring terminal and body/bolt where it's tight, pressure is great there, but it will fill in all voided areas. Jmo.