Wacky Sudden out of control truck and camper on the freeway the other night, was a front hub bearing. It threw me into the fast lane, scared the hell out of me and finally got it off the road in a very squirrilly fashion . $340 towing bill and spent the night in Les Schwab for morning repairs. At least I had a place to sleep. I got repaired before noon and got home but the ABS lite is still on... pain.

 

My question is has anyone figured out a way to lube those factory hub/ bearings? I heard they last an average of 100,000 but longer if you lube them by removing the ABS bolt and squirt grease down in there? They can be a pain getting them off too unless you lube the mating surface before bolting up.

 

Anyhow just to start a discussion.... I like the Dynatrac locking hub option for another thought

On ‎8‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 2:04 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

.

 

So they might last forever but upgrading might outweigh the loss...

Might...……………….

Thats what I love about this forum.... people take the time to help and explain some very intelligent aspect about the subject at hand. 

 

Thank you Haggar, you put some work into explaining that. And to you also Mopar1973Man, I appreciate all that has been said.

 

Will get back in a day or so.....

I know you're probably not supposed to do it, but I put antiseize on the mating surface of mine. Also if you take a socket and extension and place in on the back of the bolt and have the extension press on to the knuckle of the axel then turn the steering wheel it will pop the bearing right off. Typically you just thread each of the 4 bolts in just enough so that they are flush on the hub and do the before mentioned method hitting all 4 bolts. That's how I did mine and it was effortless. Especially if you do it with the front axel on jack stands. Saw some guy on youtube do it a couple of months ago. I'll see if I can find the video.

Nothing wrong with anti sieze on surfaces. Dodge should have done on the assembly line. Mine come effortlessly now. I learned about the PS method long after I did mine. It seems the BFH was the preferred method back then.

PS method works good when you have 2 people. The new air hammer tool works great for a single guy. 

NEW air hammer??? New to you or new design?

38 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

PS method works good when you have 2 people. The new air hammer tool works great for a single guy. 

I fitted may super heavy duty rivet gun with tip with brass end, makes fast work of it. And makes all the ball joints slip off when hitting the side of the fitting 

Here is the PS Method for reference

5 hours ago, dripley said:

Nothing wrong with anti sieze on surfaces. Dodge should have done on the assembly line. 

I agree 100%, probably cost too much though. I use anti sieze on everything I can, makes life down the road a lot easier. I also wish farm equipment manufacturers learned to use the stuff too. 

19 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

PS method works good when you have 2 people. The new air hammer tool works great for a single guy. 

Works just fine with one person.  I did mine this way on my own and I had no trouble or need or any one else.  No need to buy tools that I don't need.

JAG if you don't mind I'll post here instead of starting a new thread. 

I think I'll be buying a set of new hubs as my passenger side was kinda growling at me on the way to work today, not sure if it's wind or tire. I actually completely flushed old grease out using mineral spirits thinner, put some through sensor hole using small funnel, spun hub back and forth, used old vacuum cleaner to suck it all out, repeat about 5 times till it was spotless inside. Then I used electric cleaner to flush out mineral spirits out and once again vacuum. Then I used my grease zerk I put in few years ago and pumped it full of Kendall grease mentioned above, spun hub and then vacuumed out some for air space inside. Bearings are tight and spun nice with little drag, with or without grease. So I'm not sure if they're bad but my ABS keeps coming and going and that slight noise from passenger side got me thinking. I was thinking abs light was from using wrong grease but now I have a completely different stuff in there and still same issue. 

My question is, original bearing seem to be listed as Mopar 5015282AA and rockauto has Timken HA590203 and in description it says OEM # 5015282AA 

So we're these Timpken original, or was it SKF, or who did dodge use. And which ones are better. I'm not buying any China junk!

I think I may go to local Sadler Power Train place and see what they got, they usually carry good stuff. 

Anyone knows, let me know. Thanks. 

I just bought a carrier bearing from RA for drive shaft, SKF. On the box made in china. There descriotion states thay make oe stuff for many manufacturers. The Spicer listed below it say they manufacture theirs all over the world. I dont know how you can avoid ending up with things made in china short of going somewhere and seeing the product before you buy it. I also put front hubs on mine about 50k ago and have no idea who or where they were made.

38 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

So I'm not sure if they're bad but my ABS keeps coming and going and that slight noise from passenger side got me thinking. I was thinking abs light was from using wrong grease but now I have a completely different stuff in there and still same issue. 

 

Tone ring broke loose. Same problem I had with mine once I replace both unit bearings as a pair ABS light is gone.

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Tone ring broke loose. Same problem I had with mine once I replace both unit bearings as a pair ABS light is gone.

You know I keep forgetting to try and spin tone ring with a screw driver every time I have it apart  

 

Just spoke with Sadler and they want almost 300 for one of Timpken that rockauto has for 170, I had the guy look on the box and he did say it's made in US, so I guess rock aututo it is then. I'll do a bit more search here and probably order them, so much for buying spear rims and tires lol. 

Definitely don't want to wait to pay tow bill, that be the price of hubs 

Lets put it this way don't get all wrapped up in finding Timken bearing. Let's just say the all fail just the same so why spend more money on a brand that will fail just the same way. I've been running SKF bearings and get roughly 150k to 180k from a set of unit bearings.

I have to agree @Mopar1973Man. My oe last just ove 200k. I had 200k on the replacements when i changed. Bought one from NAPA and one from somewhere else never looked to even see where they came from, I had to have them. The ones I put on around 410k cmae from a member here 6 or so years ago. Paid him $150 for the pair. They were not in boxes nor did they have any writing on the bearings. Hope they last 200k. 

 When i grew up in the 50's and 60's Made in Japan was the sign of cheap stuff. Look at them now. Sure some crappy stuff still comes out of China, but the American co's that use them wont stay in buisness long with cheap crap failing all over the place. 

In that case rockauto has some for $50 a piece, who wants to be first lol...

Do any you guys think my smokin the front brakes had anything to do with the front bearing going toast at 99,000 miles? They were so hot I had to stop let them cool. I'm guessing I could have cooked the grease and several hundred miles later I got thrown into the fast lane, almost out of control, when the left bearing gave way.

 

What new air hammer you guys talking about? I need to learn about air tools.

Edited September 21, 20186 yr by JAG1

Absolutely... Once you put that much heat into the rotor it's going to radiate into the unit bearing cooking the grease. This is why I'm a big fan of manual transmissions and exhaust brakes. Automatics can do well too but with 4 gears it hard to get a selection of gear that prevents long brake usage I've got this problem with mt 96 Dodge half ton with the 46RE transmission.

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

In that case rockauto has some for $50 a piece, who wants to be first lol...

Might be the ones I have. We will never know unless they fall apart tomorrow for participating in this discussion.