Will get started on removing the drivelines today. Mopar I was looking at the manufacturers links on your web site and found Standard Transmission and Gear listed. Have you or anybody else here ever done business with them? Found a place out of Memphis called High Gear Transmission also. High Gear had this info

THIS IS A STANDARD SHIFT TRANSMISSION, NV5600 6 SPEED, FOR THE DODGE 3500 SERIES DIESEL TRUCKS.WE HAVE THESE IN 2X4 AND 4X4. THESE UNITS ARE REBUILT, UPDATED AND DYNO TESTED. (MY DYNO TESTER COST $80,000. BEFORE YOU BUY A TRANSMISSION FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE, ASK IF THEY HAVE MADE THAT KIND OF INVESTMENT IN THEIR PRODUCTS.) ALL THIS MEANS THEY WILL WORK WELL FOR YOU WHEN YOU GET THEM. WE DO SEVERAL THINGS TO MAKE THESE TRANSMISSIONS LAST LONGER. ASK US ABOUT IT WHEN YOU CALL.

listed on the tranny Will give them all a call on Monday. Will a 3500 fit my 2500 ?I just found the link to the transmission write up from the dodge forum http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-cu...rk-nv5600.html that will be very helpful. Nice write up by that guy. I also need a clutch. Found a SBC 1947 OFE at TV diesel for 650.00. Does that sound like the right one for me. I don't do a lot of pulling. Haul a cabover to Montana once a year and occassionally pull a load of firewood. Just a few questions. I notice some clutches come with a fly wheel can I just reuse mine or do I need a new one? Is there anything else you would do while you have this tranny out. Rear main seal ? Any other thoughts or suggestions or tips to make this job any easier would be a appreciated.

Thanks Rob

Ok got the slave from south bend today and put her in and took it for a drive. Took a couple of laps around the town. The plastic on the slave popped the first push, it took a little driving around and it was little rough getting into 4th at first but it loosened up and drives pretty good. Will see how it goes but for now I am quite happy. Will get out and recheck all the tranny bolts and stuff tomorrow and try to get back to normal. Thanks everybody for your help and support. If I can be of any help to anybody on this let me know. Rob

Glad to hear its moving under its own power again.

Thanks everybody for your help and support. If I can be of any help to anybody on this let me know. Rob

See now that you over come this issue now you now know of a few secrets that you can pass on to the next person. Sorry to hear you had to go through all this but I'm glad you learned from the experience nad now can pass it on to someone else!

Sounds like you are good to go! Nice work and great thread you wrote up. I am certain many other will benefit from your efforts. I meant to ask you if you noticed any difference between the OEM slave and the Southbend slave? Much difference in pedal pressure? Any further comments and observations on the Southbend clutch?

Interesting info I found on another forum. "Some new info on the NV5600 after I had to have mine replaced! My trans guy is pretty well known for being an excellent mechanic and he let me in on a few points of interest re: the NV5600. 1. There is a modified case with an opening at the rear right lower corner that allows fluid to the rear gear. This occured around late 2000, this allows fluid to the back so these trans won't really benefit from an extra qt. Unfortunately you'd have to pull the transfer case to find out. If you don't know the extra qt can't hurt. Rebuilds have 2 or 3 1/2" holes drilled in this location if the rebuild shop is a competent one. 2. The wrong fluid is what kills the backing plates (synchro's) in these trans. It doesn't take a whole lot of driving to accomplish this. My new trans will run the Texaco/Chrysler fluid until the warranty is up, when I'll switch to the Amsoil version or the Redline. I haven't investigated enough yet to make a decision. The wrong fluid is usually put in at the local Quickie lube, the tech sees a big cast iron case and just assumes gear oil is the required lube. 3. Towing by the front end can mess up the backing plates in a hurry if the trans is in neutral and the driveline is in place. When towing these rigs, make sure the wrecker drops the drivelina at the rear end and straps the driveshaft up. I got a $45 bill for this and consider it very cheap for the headaches it could cause down the road if it reduces the useful life of my trans. 4. You own a truck that was made primarily for pulling a lot of weight. The more I have in mine the easier it shifts and the smoother everything is. A trailer increases this feeling even more. The trans is not meant for racing or flying thru the gears, it's big, heavy and almost bulletproof but needs a moment to line everything up before smoothly slipping into the next gear. When going from a stop or forward gear into reverse push toward the 'R' and count one, two, three and it should slip right in. Forcing it just causes stress on the internals. 5. My truck was purchased used w/53K miles on it and my past experiences w/ 1 tons and larger trucks made me notice the trans shifted kind of hard and toothy but from what I've read on here I assumed that was pretty normal...wrong! My new trans shifts very smoothly and I was very surprised the first time I drove it that I had been driving it the past 2 years with damaged internals. By the way, My old trans was pretty much destroyed during disassembly, some of the components were so tight that a lot of heat and a huge press were needed to get it apart effectively rendering the main shaft useless. I was amazed at the size of the mainshaft in this trans and my trans guy said that I couldn't possibly break it but the wrong fluid is like cancer to these trannys. Good luck with yours!" http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/tranny-problems-nv-5600-t156149.html

Interesting info I found on another forum.

"Some new info on the NV5600 after I had to have mine replaced! My trans guy is pretty well known for being an excellent mechanic and he let me in on a few points of interest re: the NV5600.

1. There is a modified case with an opening at the rear right lower corner that allows fluid to the rear gear. This occured around late 2000, this allows fluid to the back so these trans won't really benefit from an extra qt. Unfortunately you'd have to pull the transfer case to find out. If you don't know the extra qt can't hurt. Rebuilds have 2 or 3 1/2" holes drilled in this location if the rebuild shop is a competent one.

2. The wrong fluid is what kills the backing plates (synchro's) in these trans. It doesn't take a whole lot of driving to accomplish this. My new trans will run the Texaco/Chrysler fluid until the warranty is up, when I'll switch to the Amsoil version or the Redline. I haven't investigated enough yet to make a decision. The wrong fluid is usually put in at the local Quickie lube, the tech sees a big cast iron case and just assumes gear oil is the required lube.

Yeah I know ISX is having problem with a lubricant now and 3rd gear...

3. Towing by the front end can mess up the backing plates in a hurry if the trans is in neutral and the driveline is in place. When towing these rigs, make sure the wrecker drops the drivelina at the rear end and straps the driveshaft up. I got a $45 bill for this and consider it very cheap for the headaches it could cause down the road if it reduces the useful life of my trans.

Hmmm... If so then all the downhill runs I do where a trailer is pushing down should of ruind my tranny long ago... I think this is a fable...

4. You own a truck that was made primarily for pulling a lot of weight. The more I have in mine the easier it shifts and the smoother everything is. A trailer increases this feeling even more. The trans is not meant for racing or flying thru the gears, it's big, heavy and almost bulletproof but needs a moment to line everything up before smoothly slipping into the next gear. When going from a stop or forward gear into reverse push toward the 'R' and count one, two, three and it should slip right in. Forcing it just causes stress on the internals.

Actually I found that clutch issues tend to produce this problem. If the input shaft is being pulled along because of a clutch or clutch parts that are dragging on the flywheel then making gear changes tough especially forward to reverse.

5. My truck was purchased used w/53K miles on it and my past experiences w/ 1 tons and larger trucks made me notice the trans shifted kind of hard and toothy but from what I've read on here I assumed that was pretty normal...wrong! My new trans shifts very smoothly and I was very surprised the first time I drove it that I had been driving it the past 2 years with damaged internals.

By the way, My old trans was pretty much destroyed during disassembly, some of the components were so tight that a lot of heat and a huge press were needed to get it apart effectively rendering the main shaft useless. I was amazed at the size of the mainshaft in this trans and my trans guy said that I couldn't possibly break it but the wrong fluid is like cancer to these trannys. Good luck with yours!"

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/tranny-problems-nv-5600-t156149.html

With my Trans I've change the fluid every 100K miles with only the Mopar Synthetic that it calls for and so far no problems at all in 172K miles. No 5th nut problems, no shifting problems, etc...

No 5th nut problems, no shifting problems, etc...

The 5th gear nut problem is on the NV4500's.

The 5th gear nut problem is on the NV4500's.

Yea your right... But that's what I own... (5 speed) I know its a 6 speed thread but so what a extra gear...

3. Towing by the front end can mess up the backing plates in a hurry if the trans is in neutral and the driveline is in place. When towing these rigs, make sure the wrecker drops the drivelina at the rear end and straps the driveshaft up. I got a $45 bill for this and consider it very cheap for the headaches it could cause down the road if it reduces the useful life of my trans.

Hmmm... If so then all the downhill runs I do where a trailer is pushing down should of ruind my tranny long ago... I think this is a fable...

But we don't let trailers push us downhill in neutral. There is no lube pump, so all the lube is splash lube, so the question would come down to what all is turning and slashing lube when the drive-shaft is the turning the guts, but nothing else. Normally in neutral the engine is still spinning the input as well as the drives-haft spinning the guts, unless you coast in N with the clutch in.

Neutral has to be the key to that comment, since exhaust braking adds a lot of stress to the gears and they would fail quick if it was just a coasting issue.

I am not saying I agree with the comment, just looking at both sides. It does seem far fetched, but?? Maybe someone with more intimate knowledge of the NV4500 or NV5600.

--- Update to the previous post...

I just looked at my owners manual. It states that 2wd cannot flat tow, the rear tires must be raised to avoid trans damage. 4wd can only flat tow with the Transfer case in N.. Maybe there is some validity.

--- Update to the previous post...

From the 2005 Owners manual... But should apply to all NV-5600 equipped trucks.

NOTE: Both the Manual Shift and Electronic Shift

transfer cases must be shifted into Neutral (N) for

recreational towing. Automatic transmissions must be

placed in P (Park) position for recreational towing.

Manual transmissions must be left in gear (not in neutral)

for recreational towing. Refer below for the proper transfer

case Neutral shifting procedure for your vehicle.

--- Update to the previous post...

I know its a 6 speed thread but so what a extra gear...

Its the best gear EVER!!

Now if they would just go one more and give me a 7 speed.. A towing (.85) and a empty (.70) OD. 2150 rpms would be either 65 or 80 in OD.. PERFECT!

Yea your right... But that's what I own... (5 speed) I know its a 6 speed thread but so what a extra gear...

I thought you had a 6 speed for some reason??? Was just a good natured kiddin'.

Its the best gear EVER!! Now if they would just go one more and give me a 7 speed.. A towing (.85) and a empty (.70) OD. 2150 rpms would be either 65 or 80 in OD.. PERFECT!

Yeah but I look at one thing... 5 Speed 0.75:1 ratio 6 Speed 0.73:1 Ratio So even if it had a 7th gear it would most likely be around the same...

Now this would be a SWEET transmission if it could be made to fit.

http://www.roadranger.com/Roadranger/productssolutions/SpecificationGuide/LinehaulManual/index.htm

--- Update to the previous post...

The 7 and 9 speed versions would be a great match. I would prefer the 9 speed as it gives you a much wider range of gears to choose from pretty much in the same size package.

7-9 gears and only one overdrive? ouch

Yeah but I look at one thing... 5 Speed 0.75:1 ratio 6 Speed 0.73:1 Ratio So even if it had a 7th gear it would most likely be around the same...

It depends. If they add the 7th gear as a 2nd overdrive it would different, but if they put it between 1st and direct then you are correct. The rpm band and gearing on these trucks with the 6 speed is perfect, really no need for another gear between 1st and 5th, but a taller and a shorter OD would really be nice.

Hawkeye, i am curious how that rebuilt 6 sp worked out for you? was it worth what you paid for it.