Hey guys I have a goerend tranny on the way it should be here some time by the end of the month/first of the month...how big of a pain is it to do without the barring tool?

Well it not the prefect way but you can us the alternator...

Turn it towards the coolant bottle...

cool thanks thats how i did the vp...dont know why i didnt think of that

for the torque converter alignment/bolts ?I just used a big flat head screw driver - worked pretty well from inspection port on bottomthen accessed the bolts from inspection port on passenger side

If the pulley way doesn't work, you can try the way at the end of this short thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1848-Damper?highlight=barring+engine I don't see how you guys can ever do it with the alternator pulley, I can put a socket wrench on the tensioner to get even more tension on it and the belt still slips and engine never budges. Always have to revert back to the laws of physics to spin it over.

If the pulley way doesn't work, you can try the way at the end of this short thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1848-Damper?highlight=barring+engine I don't see how you guys can ever do it with the alternator pulley, I can put a socket wrench on the tensioner to get even more tension on it and the belt still slips and engine never budges. Always have to revert back to the laws of physics to spin it over.

Just for fun I'll have to make a vid of that using a socket on the alternator pulley...

Did you know if you go the wrong way, the alternator pulley slips on the belt effortlessly, but if you go the right way it grabs the belt and cranks over the engine.. :banghead:Guess the last time I tried it I started off going the wrong way, saw how loose it was and said the hell with it. Man that ticks me off. If you only knew the ways I been barring the engine over

thanks for the tips guys... ill decide whether or not to buy the tool or use a big screw driver.... crawling in and out from under the truck to get the bolts loose doesnt sound to fun to me as i will most likely doing this by my self on an off day from the fire house while everyone else is at work....

yeah thats the advantage of doing against the flexplate from the bottom port of bellhousing. You move it -- then slide a couple feet across - and look at the inspection cover on side (passenger) - or even just keep your left hand finger in the whole to 'feel' when the bolt comes into view of the hole. Then remove for dropping or insert for finishing up. I was gonna do a writeup with picks sometime for the 47re - there is like a 80 page thread here by me with 1000's q's the guys helped me with (thanks) .......... all kinda issues - but these were main things I found. Will get around to cleaner writeup soon with pics. 1) Make sure you have good extension to reach the bellhousing bolts and power - I used a impact wrench but was nervous of stripping bolts. So did as careful as I could.2) Mikes idea of using 4x2 with bottle jack worked awesome for spreading the cross member and removing/installing.3) Have a good tranny jack. Drop tranny and transfer case together. But only put them back up seperate - this saved us SO much grief.4) If doing VB - do it with tranny on its back - was much easier.5) MAKE sure the TC is seated fully in. Apparently you can do damage to pump etc if you muck around with it to much. :shrug:6) Make sure middle alignmnet dowels get put in cleany when reattaching tranny to bellhousing - then tighten all bolts.7) TC bolts - put all on first - only half threaded - then start tightening once all ON. We tightened down 1 at time fully and then had to back everything off to get enough 'play' to get the threads on others started - took AGES.8) Lift and support block from front with regular floor jack a couple of inches on wood if required. Supports weight with tranny not braced and gives a good angle for comming back on.9) Fluid levels - I had to place more fluid than I thought after upgrade - not sure if that was due to 3x disk TC.10) Keep track of bolts/nuts/parts better than I did - It all worked out in end - but spent ages looking for bolts/nuts etc. Thanks to mike, W+F and others who helped me with like gazillion q's - and that was for that 1 thread

If the pulley way doesn't work, you can try the way at the end of this short thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1848-Damper?highlight=barring+engine I don't see how you guys can ever do it with the alternator pulley, I can put a socket wrench on the tensioner to get even more tension on it and the belt still slips and engine never budges. Always have to revert back to the laws of physics to spin it over.

when i tried the alternator pulley, it worked well until the nut came loose:cry:

This is what a lot of folks use: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TOOL_3824591

Leave it to Geno's... what a neat tool. Wish I'd had it for my applications when I was working on gas inboards (boats).

This is what a lot of folks use: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TOOL_3824591

Thats exactly what i was looking at....Just didnt think to look at genos for it thanks.