My 24 valve is a RWD and not a 4x4. I have one tire pulling and would like to change that to a limited slip so both would pull if needed. I have been stuck in the yard of a house we rented after heavy rains. I had a rear end changed over to limited slip by a garage that was supposed to be best. After parts and labor it was a shocking $1,200.00 and that was back in the early 90s. It went out in less than 9 months, completely shot. I wished I had done it differently. So with all of that being said should I seek out another Master Mechanic to add the parts to make it limited slip or find a rear end from a yard and go that route. Maybe as long as I stay on solid ground it will be fine. I had hopes of getting a small 5th that my wife and I could go on trips in. The 24 valve should be more than capable and even better with the new injectors added but I'm concerned about having only one wheel pulling. Any suggestions??? Thank you. 

My diff is  LS. and have problems getting stuck also.  5th wheel better traction than bumber pull for sure. And also I'm thinking about a "locker" type diff.  

1 hour ago, 015point9 said:

My diff is  LS. and have problems getting stuck also.  5th wheel better traction than bumber pull for sure. And also I'm thinking about a "locker" type diff.  

Is it called a LS by Dodge? How would a locker help?

 

3 hours ago, Greenlee said:

I have been stuck in the yard of a house we rented after heavy rains.

 

Try lightly setting the park brake in very slippery situations.  It is a poor man's solution for a  limited slip, but it works when you need it - I know, I have done many times in snow country.

 

- John

12 hours ago, Greenlee said:

Is it called a LS by Dodge? How would a locker help?

 

LS. I just shortened subject.  I have same problem...

 

Edited September 30, 20186 yr by 015point9
Add info

Posi lock maybe? Problably better of getting aused axle from a donor truck or parts house. You could pick one up for under 500$ pretty easy. 

Disregard my above post, posted wrong link.  This link is better

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14400-locker-or-limited-slip/?tab=comments#comment-185280

 

Could be as simple as the clutches in the diff being worn. I think are a little thin after all these miles.

Hmmm... In the entire 15 years of ownership on my truck I've only been stuck twice. Once in the yard moving the RV on soft ground. Then the other time with a full load of wood trying to cross soft ground. 

 

I'm 4WD and standard differential and rarely do I use 4WD even in the winter time with icy roads. Just to make you think.

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Hmmm... In the entire 15 years of ownership on my truck I've only been stuck twice. Once in the yard moving the RV on soft ground. Then the other time with a full load of wood trying to cross soft ground. 

 

I'm 4WD and standard differential and rarely do I use 4WD even in the winter time with icy roads. Just to make you think.

4wd is a must where I live. Last year I was driving to work in 6 inches f slush and almost couldn’t move in 4 wheel drive. I thought I had a flat tire it just wouldn’t go. 

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

4wd is a must where I live. Last year I was driving to work in 6 inches f slush and almost couldn’t move in 4 wheel drive. I thought I had a flat tire it just wouldn’t go

 

Secret... 

 

If you and me where to walk out into the snow we would sink every step we make. Then if you put on snowshoes you can walk on top of the snow. The secret is I've always ran small pizza cutter tires that push down to the road surface and gain traction easy. where guys with wide tires tend to float on top and have huge issues with traction. 

16 hours ago, Tractorman said:

 

Try lightly setting the park brake in very slippery situations.  It is a poor man's solution for a  limited slip, but it works when you need it - I know, I have done many times in snow country.

 

- John

Thanks John, I have done that many times hoping it would get me out of the mud. Believe me when it rains and the ground is soft I try to avoid it completely. This is a great old trick that will and can help those who have never tried it. My 98 12 valve must have LS because on dirt both wheels pull evenly. Appreciate it.

6 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Posi lock maybe? Problably better of getting aused axle from a donor truck or parts house. You could pick one up for under 500$ pretty easy. 

My thoughts as well. Had to do it years ago when I was a lot younger and able to change them out. I forgot who it was that lost his mind because mine is out there somewhere but when you loose your strength it's a constant reminder of how you have to adjust to doing things or pay for help. I've got a young man who owns an A/C shop here in Mobile and he's a extremely honest business man. Works on everything except transmissions. I'll get him to find a rear end or change over the 98 to the 99. 015Point9 talked about a locker, maybe an air-locker by Detroit. I did some reading on this before going to bed and that might be a good way to go. When I sell the 98 and see how much I have it might be a option. Bottom line, your suggestion is one I have used and is a way of saving money knowing the rear end is factory and no one has messed with it. I don't really know of anyone around here that sets up gears or has a reputation for reliability. A used Differential would be a good choice. Thanks

6 hours ago, 015point9 said:

Disregard my above post, posted wrong link.  This link is better

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14400-locker-or-limited-slip/?tab=comments#comment-185280

 

What a great link with a lot of good reply's. A whole new world of mechanics. Who in the heck is smart enough to come up with all of this. So from what I was reading the Automatic 12valve has a Dana 60 or 70 and the Manual 5 24valve is a Dana 80, is this right?

This house we rented also had a 48" cut diesel lawnmower and I got it stuck right off the bat the next day after 5 or 6 inches of rain. I tried everything to get it out of the mud. Got as much strapping and chain and rope that I had on hand to I could try and use the 24valve to pull it out. It sank fast as soon as I stopped, no way to reverse it or move. One tire pulling, so I used the emergency brake trick but it was useless. With all the weight of the engine up front and no weight in the back I had to call a friend with a 4x4 to pull it out and the lawnmower. Every since when I was driving the 24vavle I was cautious about pulling off anywhere that had a soft shoulder. It's hard to believe that you all seldom use four wheel drive even in the winter on ice. Of course I am running the stock tire size and found it interesting that skinny 35s with a smaller foot print add more weight per square inch. Maybe a set of bicycle tires would really put some force to the ground. I know, I know, dumb thought just adding a little humor. 

 

5 hours ago, dripley said:

Could be as simple as the clutches in the diff being worn. I think are a little thin after all these miles.

I don't know much about the clutches or if a single wheel differential would have them. It's pouring down here so tomorrow I'm going to get the number off the door and see if I can locate a tag on the Differential Covers to know exactly what I am dealing with. With my luck at times (don't believe in Luck anyway, just a expression) I could be driving one of your trucks and get stuck on top of ice!!!!!!! 

 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Hmmm... In the entire 15 years of ownership on my truck I've only been stuck twice. Once in the yard moving the RV on soft ground. Then the other time with a full load of wood trying to cross soft ground. 

 

I'm 4WD and standard differential and rarely do I use 4WD even in the winter time with icy roads. Just to make you think.

Well I am thinking and wondering how in the world you do it. When you say a Standard Differential in the rear is it one wheel pulling or an LS? Thanks

5 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

4wd is a must where I live. Last year I was driving to work in 6 inches f slush and almost couldn’t move in 4 wheel drive. I thought I had a flat tire it just wouldn’t go. 

All four tires locked in the slush or slush and mud? Or all four tires spinning?

 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Secret... 

 

If you and me where to walk out into the snow we would sink every step we make. Then if you put on snowshoes you can walk on top of the snow. The secret is I've always ran small pizza cutter tires that push down to the road surface and gain traction easy. where guys with wide tires tend to float on top and have huge issues with traction. 

That's pretty good, a good set of snow shoes might be the answer. Your secret is out now but I don't know if it would be an advantage here in the south. Do you think the 35s would help with traction in the rain? Driving the 12valve two days ago in a downpour and it has both tires pulling the rear end just about came around past me when I gave it a little peddle and you all know that a stock 12valve is not very performance engineered truck to drive. When I owned my 06 Duramax I would run it in AWD in the rain and you could floor it and it simply went straight, braking was the same way. It was the second 4x4 I ever owned, the first was a 59 Ford 250 manual on the floor with a big 6 cylinder in it. You couldn't get it stuck if you tried. So I'm asking a lot of questions to understand the Dodge and how to make it drive better and have good traction without 4WD as an option. Again, Thanks everyone.

 

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

I don't know much about the clutches or if a single wheel differential would have them

If yours is an open diff it has no clutches. Wasnt thinking. My 02 has a sticker in the glove that says mine came with. Dont know about your 98 though.

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

Well I am thinking and wondering how in the world you do it. When you say a Standard Differential in the rear is it one wheel pulling or an LS? Thanks

 

One tire fire differential. No clutches. No limited slip. No locker. Just good 'ol differential with 80w-90 gear lube. Run most the winter in 2WD rarely do I lock in 4WD. I've got a brand new set of chains that are 15 years old and never used yet. Both truck are standard differential no clutches. 

 

The chains on the left are my set of chains from my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon which are nearly 30 years old rarely used. Now retired to the 1996 Dodge Pickup which I've never used chains on that truck yet. The chains on the right have never been on the ground yet are 15 years old. I've got to buy another set of rubber bands for those chains. The rubber bands have long gone rotten and broke. Again never used. I've carried a set of chains every year but never used them. I've never been stuck in the snow yet. 

 

 

Edited September 30, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

28 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

One tire fire differential. No clutches. No limited slip. No locker. Just good 'ol differential with 80w-90 gear lube. Run most the winter in 2WD rarely do I lock in 4WD. I've got a brand new set of chains that are 15 years old and never used yet. Both truck are standard differential no clutches. 

 

The chains on the left are my set of chains from my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon which are nearly 30 years old rarely used. Now retired to the 1996 Dodge Pickup which I've never used chains on that truck yet. The chains on the right have never been on the ground yet are 15 years old. I've got to buy another set of rubber bands for those chains. The rubber bands have long gone rotten and broke. Again never used. I've carried a set of chains every year but never used them. I've never been stuck in the snow yet. 

 

 

I have found that chains are mostly used in deep snow. When I hunt at high elevation is the only time I have chained up. For the most part 4x4 will get you anywhere. There is no doubt that pizza cutters are the ticket for traction. The issue I see is that us owners with 4:10 gear ratios need a fairly tall tire to suit or needs and with every height gain u get width gain with it. Like I am running 265s right now and I'm just fine with the width but I need a taller tire to get the optimal gear ratio of 3.73 without regearing. My next tires will likely be 285s for this reason. 

1 hour ago, Greenlee said:

Do you think the 35s would help with traction in the rain?

 

No. Makes the truck hydroplane more. 

 

The only time wide tire is a good idea is offroad in mud. Now a wide tire will float on top of the mud spreading the axle weight across your "wide snowshoes" and allowing you to travel without sinking. The rest of the time narrow tire provide better traction than wide tire because even in a panic stop a wide tire will break free and skid sooner because again your weight is spread out over more cubic inches. Where a narrow tire will dig in and bite and rarely slide because the amount of weight per square inch is much greater.

 

Hence why on the 2002 Dodge the front axle is 4,440 pounds and the rear is 2,860 pounds. This means a single front tire is holding 2,220 pounds. now measure the patch of the tire and square inch and calculate the pound per square inches for the downward force. This is why with the 245's I'm not losing a bunch to width. 

 

This is why I opted for the 215's on the 1996 Dodge its even lighter truck and only 5,500 pounds roughly. So the weight on each tire is even lower this means I need even narrower tires to gain better winter tractor and push down through the water and slush.  

24 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I have found that chains are mostly used in deep snow. When I hunt at high elevation is the only time I have chained up. For the most part 4x4 will get you anywhere. There is no doubt that pizza cutters are the ticket for traction. The issue I see is that us owners with 4:10 gear ratios need a fairly tall tire to suit or needs and with every height gain u get width gain with it. Like I am running 265s right now and I'm just fine with the width but I need a taller tire to get the optimal gear ratio of 3.73 without regearing. My next tires will likely be 285s for this reason. 

You can go taller without getting wider. Quick comparison 265 85 16 is 2" taller and no wider than 265 75 16.

5 minutes ago, dripley said:

You can go taller without getting wider. Quick comparison 265 85 16 is 2" taller and no wider than 265 75 16.

 

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

One tire fire differential. No clutches. No limited slip. No locker. Just good 'ol differential with 80w-90 gear lube. Run most the winter in 2WD rarely do I lock in 4WD. I've got a brand new set of chains that are 15 years old and never used yet. Both truck are standard differential no clutches.

I'm lost on this, sorry, the rear differential is one wheel pulling and the front is two wheel pulling? So in 4WD it's actually 3WD? 

42 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

This is another degree of education all by its self. Not dealing with ice or snow but possibly a 5th wheel way down the road would 35s be a good way for me to go with the manual 24 valve I plan on driving? I saw the thread on going from a 35 to another size tire, maybe I should stop and read what's going on to get a better understanding????? I plan on reading soon anyway

No.

 

Front axle is always an "open differential". Only the rear is optional of "open differential" or "limited slip". As for pulling power, it done on both wheels on that axle but when a tire loses traction it will continue to spin. Where a limited slip uses a clutch pack to lock the axle solid and give traction to the other tire possibly. It doesn't mean it can but that is the concept. 

 

In 4WD my truck pulls straight on all four tires. But since I use smaller / narrow tires my traction is better so the whole slip part is rare for me hence why "open differential" still works just fine. Now for guys with wide tires or duals now this is a whole another story where traction is lost easily and "limited slip" would be a good band-aid for this case. Guys will duals you basically taking 2,860 pounds dividing by 2 giving 1,430 pounds per dual set. Now since the contact patch is much wider and spread of weight of larger amount of cubic inches traction is lost really easy. 

 

No clutches...

 

Limited slip Dana 80... As you can see the clutches. 

14 minutes ago, Greenlee said:

I'm lost on this, sorry, the rear differential is one wheel pulling and the front is two wheel pulling? So in 4WD it's actually 3WD? 

This is another degree of education all by its self. Not dealing with ice or snow but possibly a 5th wheel way down the road would 35s be a good way for me to go with the manual 24 valve I plan on driving? I saw the thread on going from a 35 to another size tire, maybe I should stop and read what's going on to get a better understanding????? I plan on reading soon anyway

 

Towing and daily driving optimal you want 3.55 to 3.73 final gear ratio to the ground. So like in my case with the factory tire size is 265/ 75 R16 with 3.55 axle gears now change up to 245/75 R16 (the other factory tire size) now my final gear ratio to the ground is 3.69:1 which is darn close to 3.73 ratio. This puts me at a perfect 2,000 RPM's at 66 MPH in 5th gear on NV4500 transmission. At 85 MPH your twisting nearly a perfect 2,400 RPM's.