I’m leaking fuel from a plastic line connected below and to the right of the fuel filter. I took out fuel filter but can only get one hand by the leak. I’ve tried getting at it from underneath and can’t. I took the wheel well plastic guard off and there is no room. My only option that I see is cutting the metal out of the wheel well big enough to get my hands at the problem. Would there be an access through the fire wall I don’t see. I think I put my fuel gauge in the wrong place because it aways maxes out at thirty and never goes lower. Besides the fuel leak I’m worried about my injector pump because my truck aways started right away and now I have to crank it multiple times pumping the petal to get it going. And that seems to me like no fuel. I think the plastic line that’s leaking might be a return to tank line. Could all the extra cranking to get it running harm my injector pump?

If fuel is leaking out some where, air is getting in and that will cause your hard starts. No amount of pedal pushing will help on a 24v. The pedal is only connected to the TPS sensor. There is the return fuel line from the VP and the back of the head that join at the back of the engine in a tee and  somewhat behind the fuel filter. It is pain to get to but you dont have to cut any holes to get to it. Any way you ca get picture of the line you speak of?

 

What year truck do you have?

Edited October 6, 20186 yr by dripley

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 

I assume you mean the black line that comes in from the upper center of picture and has a drop fuel on it. That is definitely after market. I am not sure what it is connected to. I have an after market fuel system but the return lines are still in stock configuration.

 

Seems to be some more of it looped around and hanging by zip ties. Is that fuel line also? Supply line maybe?

 

Best I can tell you is follow line and see what all it is attached to. The return has a line off of the VP and one line off the back of the head joined a tee as mentioned above. That tee has grommets that do wear and start leaking. But not knowing what is that was done is going to make advice a bit difficult. Seems to be a lot lines just run helter skelter in there. 

The cable with twist ties is a manual for the front wheel 4x4. The vacuum wasn’t reliable. The line with the drip goes to that t I think your talking about. I can get a 5/8 wrench on the connection but no other hold so would just break something. I can see the leak connection but just can’t get to it. It’s frustrating.

If the tee is in the stock position you need to remove the filter canister, 2 bolts and let lay towards the fender well, and that is the way you get too it. Not fun by any means but the only access you have. That is how I redid mine. The return on the back of the head is even more fun. The only way to see it is with mirror. It has 2 sealing washers that are most likely shot also. Matter of fact that could the leak. The fuel will just run down the line over the tee to lowest spot. Both the tee and/or the sealing washers leaking are the cause of the hard starts. When air gets in the return lines it lets the fuel run out of the high pressure lines. Next time you try and start it bump the starter, no engine start, and the lift pump should run for 20 or so seconds. That will help get some back up to the VP. Might have to do it more than once depending on how bad its leaking.

If there is one guy I would trust to help me fix a fuel leak it would definitely be a guy named 'dripley'...  I'm sorry dripley...I couldn't resist.  All kidding aside...very good info on your posts.

2 minutes ago, Bullet said:

If there is one guy I would trust to help me fix a fuel leak it would definitely be a guy named 'dripley'...  I'm sorry dripley...I couldn't resist.  All kidding aside...very good info on your posts.

Very funny. Most folks dont put the d and ripley together like. I noticed it when I got that name at AOL. Now we will see how crap I can from this nick name.

 

I appreciate the compliment and the laugh.

Maybe I should change my to dripless???

2 minutes ago, dripley said:

Very funny. Most folks dont put the d and ripley together like. I noticed it when I got that name at AOL. Now we will see how crap I can from this nick name.

 

I appreciate the compliment and the laugh.

Hahaha...that's good stuff!  I won't rib you anymore about it but I can't speak for the others.  But if I do get a fuel leak I'll be looking for you! ?? 

3 minutes ago, Bullet said:

Hahaha...that's good stuff!  I won't rib you anymore about it but I can't speak for the others.  But if I do get a fuel leak I'll be looking for you! ?? 

The kidding is all taken in stride around here. I get to dish out my fair share wnen the opportunity arises.

Well you owe me one for sure.  This forum is much better than the others I've sampled.  Glad I found this place...lots of good info on here and some pretty smart dudes!  I'll be seeing you around on the forum Mr Ripley...?

1 minute ago, Bullet said:

Well you owe me one for sure.  This forum is much better than the others I've sampled.  Glad I found this place...lots of good info on here and some pretty smart dudes!  I'll be seeing you around on the forum Mr Ripley...?

You too Mr. McQueen.

Hahaha...I wish! 

2 hours ago, James merritt said:

The cable with twist ties is a manual for the front wheel 4x4. The vacuum wasn’t reliable. The line with the drip goes to that t I think your talking about. I can get a 5/8 wrench on the connection but no other hold so would just break something. I can see the leak connection but just can’t get to it. It’s frustrating.

I need to add some thing to what I told about removing the filter canister. My fuel system has flexible 1/2" lines and will lay over out of the way. I dont know what fuel pump you are using nor how it is plumbed. That will dictate what you have to do the move canister out of the way.

It’s cold out, but I will give it a try. My garage is a parking lot. I need to improve my gas mileage. Thanks for the help. I will send a picture from the top once I get in there.

I moved all the wires out of the way and can at least see the T. Without running the engine I don’t know which line was leaking? The lines look kinda fragile and I don’t know what parts to actually change. Any suggestions? I’d like to have necessarily parts on hand before I disable the truck. Thanks for your thoughts.

I have two of these trucks and often wondered how I would get to that Tee if it ever leaked. I often think about making a plank scaffold that allows me to lay belly down over the engine. Maybe getting some 2x10's or 12's with four step ladders used for support. I would hate the thought of someone doing all this though and find it did not work out at all. Maybe something simpler perhaps 

 

• Hang glider harness and bag attached to the shop above  

Edited October 7, 20186 yr by JAG1

12 hours ago, JAG1 said:

 

• Hang glider harness and bag attached to the shop above  

I'd buy it  

 

@James merritt

 

Here is a view from a different angle in regards to that area of the fuel system and also a link regarding replacement.

 

Edited October 8, 20186 yr by sooxies
grammar

1 hour ago, sooxies said:

I'd buy it  

 

@James merritt

 

Here is a view from a different angle in regards to that area of the fuel system and also a link regarding replacement.

 

That is a very good view. Sure would be nice if you get to it as easy as  you can see it.

Dipley, I thought I remember that you got back there once and changed the sealing washers. Is that correct? 

Yep, did it when I did the return tee. Pretty much all by feel and laying on the engine. I hope the never leak again but they might be already. Get a hard start myself every so often.