I think I've got some electrical issues. My main problem is the apps. It probably needs to be replaced..but I'm trying to properly diagnose it, or if it's something bigger. 

 

Back story. The truck at all speeds has what I think is "dead pedal". 47re. When I'm taking off, the truck seems to go, then cut, then go..like it's not certain where the pedal is, even though I haven't moved my foot. 

 

The biggest problem for me is highway driving. I can't maintain speed with cruise control. If I reset the apps by unplug, key on reset, it'll work for a while, then fall off. If I set cruise control, at say, 65mph..rather than keeping a steady engine load of say, 20%, to maintain 65 on flat road..it will shoot you to 30% for a second, then drop to 0, then jump up to 25, then zero, etc..it's like it can't properly use or calculate what the appropriate engine load needs to be. 

 

I've tried cleaning grounds: pcm strap, passenger body, I've deleted and hard wired passenger battery ground disconnect, I've installed a bd noise isolator, mounted to that clean passenger side body ground. 

 

So ohm testing. I'm no electrician, but here's what I've found. I have a digital mm, on screen it sets m infinity symbol..I guess that is milliohms? (Is that even a thing)..when the truck is off, putting neg on pass battery neg, pos to alternator case, I get 0. However, on the body grounds, firewall pcm strap, and body ground with bd iso, I get 0.03. 

 

With the truck running..alternator case / block, it's still 0. However, body grounds and firewall ground to pcm go up to..0.16. Is this within spec, and what could cause such huge increase?

 

I have a nation's alternator, because my old one was leaking ac noise..this one however, is not. My black / tan is routed out to radiator, then around to battery. It is not wrapped in tin foil. 

 

I had my battery terminals replaced with military terms. (I asked for new cables too, but they retermed old..). Anyway, I've noticed some battery spill on both batteries. Passenger side new pos term has a tiny bit of corrosion, but the term itself has turned dark gray. I never had any corrosion on my old terms..and I did notice my voltage, temporarily in the morning, was higher than usual..not grid heater fluctuating, but constant. I felt the battery cables when I got home that day, they weren't warm at that time..but I feel like I've got some intermittent electrical issues I don't know how to identify properly. 

 

Oh, and my radio stopped working completely. It started off occasionally, then it would randomly turn back on once n a while..now it never turns on. It has power, lights, hitting volume turns clock on for a few seconds, then turns off again.

 

My blinkers, both sides, randomly stick on. I think that has to do with gauge installation tho..probably unrelated.

 

Jesus, sorry for long winded post..I hope someone can skim and help lol. 

Batteries are from 2015..had them load tested at an interstate battery store..said they were fine

 

 I have a couple of pencil torches for soldering and no iron. I also use a plumbers torch on occasion but those are like using a flame thrower to light your cigarette. @Tractorman uses a bit finesse than I. Definitely not a bad thing.

Edited November 4, 20186 yr by dripley

Thanks guys. I am using a soldering iron, not sure of wattage..but I was definitely doing it wrong, by just touching iron to solder and dipping and spreading. 

 

I now know what you meant about crimping, I think. You crimp opposite of the split on the inlet. I didn't understand what you meant, because mine weren't flat. 

 

I'll go buy some flux, didn't know what this was..but do now and that definitely seems necessary. 

 

I'm assuming if I apply iron to crimp box, that once the terminal and wires are properly heated, when I touch solder to the wires, it'll travel towards the heat, into the inlet crimp, where heat is being supplied? 

 

I hope my iron gets hot enough..I think it's like 30 watts? It's a cheap one if I recall

I dont know about the wattage you need but once you see the solder flow you will be surprised how easy it is to do. Get you some shrink wrap with adhesive like @Tractorman mention for the permanent joint you will do. Good insurance.

Well, I went to get some flux, ended up buying a 60w iron kit for 15$ more tart came with it..let it sit on a test terminal for like 5 minutes..still wasn't hot enough to melt solder. The thing claims to get 1300 degrees..the metal on it turned blue..I could feel the wire was definitely heated through the rubber case..but wouldn't melt solder. I'm pretty skeptical about space and hazard of firing a torch in the engine bay..but I just don't know why I can't get this to work heh. 

Will the solder melt on the tip of the iron? You only need about 400* to melt it, IIRC. A plumbers torch deep in the engine bay is not a good thing. The pencil torch puts out the same type of flame only much smaller. Still have to be careful where you point it.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Will the solder melt on the tip of the iron? You only need about 400* to melt it, IIRC. A plumbers torch deep in the engine bay is not a good thing. The pencil torch puts out the same type of flame only much smaller. Still have to be careful where you point it.

It'll melt solder..really confused here. Could it just be dissipating heat too fast? So odd. I'll have to look into a pencil torch tomorrow..I have one more day :/

It's definitely just not conducting heat for some reason. I held it on there for a while, then touched it..nothing. I hate electricity. Need fire.

 

Just for shits..I held it under a candle..it definitely got hot..but did chill pretty quickly. 

Edited November 4, 20186 yr by Exalted85

Make sure tip is not loose in iron and a sharp tip will work better than a rounded tip. If you melt a little solder between tip and terminal it will heat terminal up faster. 

3 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Make sure tip is not loose in iron and a sharp tip will work better than a rounded tip. If you melt a little solder between tip and terminal it will heat terminal up faster. 

 

I'm at a loss at this point..the 60w iron sat on it for minutes..so did the 30. They're both rounded..neither brought it up to temp. I saw the flux melt..but no solder. I tried filling down a spot on the terminal to copper and tapping in there..no go either. 

 

I did tighten both the one I just bought and the old one. 

 

If it was conducting properly..just how long should it take to heat the wire? Minutes? Hours? Did I just not let it sit long enough? I can't imagine it needing longer than a few minutes..but I could be wrong, hell, I'm more than likely wrong. I tried applying as much surface area as I could as well. 

 

Is it possible the terminal itself is incapable of transferring heat? I tied setting it in direct wire and terminal too..nothing. 

 

I'm doing something wrong..I've never heated a terminal up before..so I'm certain it's me

What type solder are you using?

Heck I just used a normal propane torch and heated the crimp up good and hot and touch the solder to the crimp instant flow. Let cool and I was done. No soldering iron used. As for shrink tube I'm not worried being I've NEVER had battery terminal corrosion yet. Yeap, still got my factory battery cables and terminals in perfect condition yet... Just use a bit of engine oil that's all.

 

 

Heck, you can even see the burn spot that my propane torch produced on the air tube. 

I got a small piece of sheet metal to use as a heat shield to prevent damage, but that was with the big flame thrower type plumbers torch. Really want to get the pencil torch. I think that would be a nice tool. 

 

Exalted85, I have one of those soldering irons like yours. I never have gotten it to work properly.

 

You hold the flame to the crimped portion of the terminal while holding the solder to the wire ends and it will flow thru nicely. Once it flows it is enough, you don't want to damage the wire insulation.

 

You can clamp on any kind of wire jaw or clamp to the wires to act like a heat sink so your less likely to melt the insulation while soldering, but shrink tubing with adhesive is good stuff and a little bit of insurance if you do degrad it a bit.

Edited November 4, 20186 yr by JAG1

What tape did you guys use for looms across the front of the motor? I only seem to find electrical tape 176f tape at auto parts stores..does the front of the engine exceed that?

 

I found "loom harness tape" on Amazon..but I'm trying to find something local to finish this today. 

I taped after I put on the  black flexible conduit pieces, using two different sizes, on the ends and some of the middle sections.

I just use good 3-M electrical tape that you should be able to find locally and use it on the outside of conduit like jag did

Edited November 4, 20186 yr by Royal Squire

5 hours ago, Exalted85 said:

What tape did you guys use for looms across the front of the motor? I only seem to find electrical tape 176f tape at auto parts stores..does the front of the engine exceed that?

 

I found "loom harness tape" on Amazon..but I'm trying to find something local to finish this today. 

I know the tape I pulled off of mine is not regular electrical tape. I used some super sticky electrical tape on mine and it does not like the under hood temps. I would have a mind to try that stuff you found. Sounds like it might be better suited for the job. Of course I do not know that personally and if they want 20 bucks a roll I might not be interested.

Okay guys..I'm about wrapping this up..but I have one more problem. The black and tan wire..I didn't re use it. I previously had an auto shop "delete" the gray quick connect..but what shall I do with it? I'm abt

About spent..I was gonna clip it and cap it..but I'm not sure if that will create problems or not

I'd cut and cap it with about a 3"  tail left incase you ever need to add a battery ground for something.  It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Well..it definitely took me more than two hours..but I got it done right, I think / hope. 

 

Instantly I noticed when I started it..it idled at exactly the same rpm, rather than bouncing around. I was excited. Drove highway to get gas, no cruise control hiccups. When I started it back up after fueling up, the rpm was bouncing again..It ran home fine with cc again..so I'm hoping the rpm at idle bounce isn't an indicator that the apps is losing control again..so I'm still a little skeptical on that point. Usually when I reset, it takes a couple days to degrade. 

 

All in all, super stoked, learned a lot, and really appreciate the help along the way. Definitely not a two hour job for a rookie, haha. 

So I have a question for those that have modified the charge wire from the ALT going straight to the passenger battery. You aren't using any type of fuse circuit breaker? Just running it from the positive post on the ALT straight to the positive post on the pass battery correct? This is not going to fry the ALT?

Wired straight to battery, no fuse. The fuse does not protect the alternator any way. But I would have to to defer to electrically smarter than I to explain.