Ever since I got the truck 3 years ago it’s always had a bad rumble while 4x4 was engaged. It hasn’t effected any performance of the 4x4 but it just doesn’t sound good. I believe it’s the double cardan in the front shaft but I’m unsure. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of play but I plan on removing the front shaft this weekend to see if the rumble goes away with 4x4 engaged to see if it’s the t-case or the shaft. I’ve heard that the from double cardan is a bear to replace but I’d much rather do it myself than spend $300 on a new shaft. Any tips to replacing this joint? I plan on doing all spicer joints so I hopefully won’t have to do this again for a while. 

@Mopar1973Man rebuilt his and has article about it but as usual I cannot find it. Did not look that difficult to me. Lets see what he says.

I’ve read a couple write-ups on it and half the people say it’s a nightmare and the other say it’s pretty easy. The u-joints are no issue just the ball and socket is the only thing I’m not familiar with 

Lets see if Mike will post up the article. From reading it and talking to him it does not look difficult. I guess that would depend on what you want to tackle. 

I think it depends on how bad it is as far as rebuilding it or buying new. At the minimum you will need 2 u-joints and a ball socket, Spicer parts will run about $120. If you need the ball stud yoke, another $80, plus a drive line shop to R&R, you would be better off to buy new. Generally the ball stud is toast.

 

I assume you have already changed fluid in the t-case and all appears okay there?

Edited November 27, 20186 yr by NIsaacs

9 hours ago, Youngblood24v said:

I’ve read a couple write-ups on it and half the people say it’s a nightmare and the other say it’s pretty easy

Half the people are experienced and a half are not, I've done it before and it's not bad once you figure out what to do. If in neutral the double joint feels tight up and down then the ball socket is fine, probably just need to put a new ball on it. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Plan on 2-3 hours that way you're not in a hurry trying to break something. Mark everything so it all goes back in same line. I would use a non greasable Spicer joint that way it's non-directional of where the grease zerks go and more likely will last longer anyway unless you're driving in the swamp everyday, even then the seals on non greasable are so much better, water should not be getting in there regardless.

9 hours ago, dripley said:

@Mopar1973Man rebuilt his and has article about it but as usual I cannot find it. Did not look that difficult to me. Lets see what he says.

 

A piece of cake... Less than one hour.

 

Edited November 27, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

Rock auto does have rebuilts and new on there site. A new one from Standard Gear is $310 + shipping.

7 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

 

I assume you have already changed fluid in the t-case and all appears okay there?

 

My t-case has a gradual leak front the rear seal so it is constantly being topped off with new fluid. When I first got the truck I drained and checked it and everything was normal. Not burnt and no shavings in the fluid or on the magnet