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Extended crank to start

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Developed a new issue. Usually my truck will start with half a revolution. It has started taking 4 sometimes more to start. What’s going on? No codes truck runs good. Good fuel pressure. 

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  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Never hook the fuel pump to the battery. Hook it up in the power stud in the PDC.    I wish both AirDog and FASS would remove that from the manual. That is the dumbest thing I've heard was t

  • dave110
    dave110

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    IBMobile

    That's as close to stock as you can get.   Make sure they are the Bosch RV275 and not some cheap knock off junk.  I bought mine from DAP last spring.

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On 12/20/2018 at 10:24 AM, Tractorman said:

From the switch, I ran a light gauge wire to one of the exposed coil terminals.  I ran a jumper wire from that terminal to the other exposed terminal.

Do you remember what you used for a push on stud connector on coils

  • Owner
2 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Is it worth sending my sac style injectors in and repopping or buy different ones that are vco? 

 

If it budget minded I would just re-pop what you got. 

 

If you got funds to burn then change the nozzles up. 

  • Author
5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

If it budget minded I would just re-pop what you got. 

 

If you got funds to burn then change the nozzles up. 

I don’t have funds to anything honestly but I got to do something. We will see how things play out with front end cost etc...

  • Owner
21 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I don’t have funds to anything honestly but I got to do something. We will see how things play out with front end cost etc...

 

Trust me I know the feeling. I still got to do my injectors yet. After all that I spent on the PCM, alternator, and misc parts I'm having fairly empty Christmas. Might get to the injectors by January or February. :duh:

    • Like 1
    • Owner

    Seems like both of us keep making three good steps towards our goals and then get kicked back two steps with another problem that empties the funds out and now leave you hanging. Yeah, we will get there eventually. 

    • Like 1
    5 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

    Do you remember what you used for a push on stud connector on coils

     

    Those studs are threaded - I just don't remember the diameter and pitch.  I do believe they are metric.  I have a used bolt / nut / washer bin and I just sorted through the nuts until I found two that fit.  You could probably find a nut on your truck that fits (not the one behind the wheel) and then match that nut to a couple of them at a local hardware store.

     

    Let me know how it works out and what you think.

     

    - John

    • Thanks 1
    On 12/21/2018 at 10:11 PM, Tractorman said:

     

    Those studs are threaded - I just don't remember the diameter and pitch.  I do believe they are metric.  I have a used bolt / nut / washer bin and I just sorted through the nuts until I found two that fit.  You could probably find a nut on your truck that fits (not the one behind the wheel) and then match that nut to a couple of them at a local hardware store.

     

    Let me know how it works out and what you think.

     

    - John

    Got it all done, works great. Got it on a regular push in momentary switch and ordered this one,

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/19MM-12V-Car-Push-Button-Switch-Momentary-Engine-Start-LED-Waterproof-Red-/173468423487?txnId=1953091987007

    so it lights up when being pushed or if somehow switch gets shorted light should come on letting you know grids are on. Idk just an idea. 

    My question to anyone that knows is, 

    There are 2 grid heaters, are they both same or one is more powerful then the other. And I'm pretty sure one comes on all the time and depending on temperature the other one comes on. So which one comes on first and which one is second. I just don't think both need to be turned on all the time, so I was just going to pull negative contact on coil off and only put it back on when really needed. 

    Both elements draw the same. 

    Both come on initially, then just one during the second cycle, and then they’re both off.

    You can see whether both or one are active via a voltage gauge. 

    I wire both to the momentary, and let my index finger determine how long the pair is active before the starter cranks the engine. 

    Once the engine is started, there’s no need for both/either one to cycle. 

     

    Edited by ofelas
    "voltage" rather than auto correct's "vintage"

    • Like 2
    49 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

    Got it all done, works great. Got it on a regular push in momentary switch and ordered this one,

     

    Great - glad you like it.  I noticed that the switch you ordered is waterproof.  I have a windshield on my truck, so I don't need waterproof switches inside.

     

    Actually the switch you ordered is a good looking switch with the illumination around the push button.  I am jealous.

     

    - John

     

     

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