Jump to content

ofelas

Member
  • Content Count

    72
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

21 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location
    True North & True South

Recent Profile Visitors

212 profile views
  1. Not as critical with a mechanical gauge as with the EV2 electronic sensor, but that write up was one of the reasons I joined this site :-)
  2. I've had good luck with the cheap $19 Summit 1/4" NPT mechanical liquid filled gauges. The 100psi gauge screwed on to the filter port has been going strong for 4 years. I killed the 30psi gauge in 2 years, despite using an Autometer snubber; Summit sent me out a brand new replacement no questions asked, even though I mentioned it was 2 years old. A short length of grease gun hose between the gauge & the snubber is what I ended up with, still going strong, here it is with barely any needle flutter when I was testing a couple different 30mm lift pump springs, a 14psi unit in this instance (I usually run 20psi on my modded VEs) - IMG_8933.mov
  3. I like running clutchless/fanless; warmup is quicker due to no air flow over the block, and vent heat is maintained nicely. I run about 200f in GA summer, and about 190f in Canuck winter. I do know folks who tow medium loads fanless, they are comfortable running 220-225f. The heater core in winter makes for a nice added system heat removal point.
  4. Interesting; I cannot contribute to info on grill covers in summer, as I only run them in winter. In winter, I find the ambient/rad air not high enough to lock the fan clutch when needed, unless there's air flowing through the center of the rad. On my first gen, I remove the clutch/fan/shroud from approx Nov 1 to Apr 1, and don't run a grill cover at all.
  5. Looks good, nice job. I'd consider making a small opening directly in front of the fan clutch, so hot air from that part of the rad can activate the clutch if needed. Go ahead & block the lower openings after you make an access flap.
  6. Only seen it a couple times; both on Jeeps that have been "modded with all the latest accessories" - winch, dual batteries, one wire alternators & some real questionable internet inspired power cabling. My buddy's 93 W250 fell victim to it too; previous owner replaced the fusible link with a piece of spliced in straight 6ga, the very tired alternator's positive diodes shorted to ground, and the resulting under hood fire took out all AC wiring, the serp belt, the AC hoses, and part of the plastic fan shroud. Fixed all the above stuff & did his KDP/case bolts/freeze plugs early this morning, just waiting on new AC hoses before I button it all up & weld up a front receiver so he can put a quick detach plastic blade on it to plow his driveway.
  7. ofelas

    Axle shaft u joints

    I think I've seen spray cans of the stuff at hardware places, or Amazon or such, but they are inordinately pricey.
  8. ofelas

    new radio yaaay!

    looks good CUMMINSDIESELPWR
  9. Picked up a Mopar branded Group 34 battery a few days back to replace the missus' 5yr old battery on her winter beater, as one cell was flaky, and desulfating the battery didn't help. Pleasantly surprised; static voltage was 12.75v on the dealership counter, & it was cheaper than the WalMart/Costco equivalent. The OEM 15yr old Denso alternator charged at approx 14.2v with all vehicle accessories on, showed an AC ripple of .035v at the battery (.033v at the alternator posts), so I took it out on a 30 minute highway drive. State of charge the next morning was 12.95v
  10. ofelas

    Axle shaft u joints

    It's some weird anti rust developed by Boeing that dries clear & needs chemical or abrasive stripping to get rid of it. The seaplanes up here use it on their floats, sometimes they lose a 55 gallon drum at the hangar. Ideally sprayed through a mist wand like any other commercial rustproofing; drilled holes then plugged after spraying, in door sills, roof skins, bed sides etc., as well as inside the frame rails, underbody, brake/fuel lines, springs/hangers etc etc.
  11. ofelas

    Axle shaft u joints

    100% agreed. I find a sprayed mix of T9 BoeShield & used Hygard works wonders, I drive my truck all winter with nary a rusted part.
  12. ofelas

    Engine stumbles

    I have a couple sets of new nozzles for 98-2002 24v by Mark Wilson (from the original PDR outfit) laying around somewhere. Every set of nozzles/sticks (close to 2 dozen across various generation trucks) I've run/installed made by him have been outstanding. Shoot him an email via his website dieseltuff.com and get his advice on nozzles/mods/POP pressures. Very competitively priced, pretty much a next day turnaround, and he is not a middleman but a builder. Couldn't be happier.
  13. Picked up -56f rated (-49c in French) washer fluid to pour down my defrost vents...
  14. ofelas

    Axle shaft u joints

    Those Spicer Life non greasable non cross drilled joints are the cat's meow. Important to reinstall the caps on their corresponding cross yokes as they have a pre-measured amount of grease in all 4. Wouldn't use anything else, even though I'm the type that lubes greasable U-joints well ahead of schedule.
  15. ofelas

    New guy.

    Welcome from another newbie.
×