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ofelas

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Everything posted by ofelas

  1. You missed the point. Men don't bend men over, and then brag about taking advantage of a fellow enthusiast.
  2. Both elements draw the same. Both come on initially, then just one during the second cycle, and then they’re both off. You can see whether both or one are active via a voltage gauge. I wire both to the momentary, and let my index finger determine how long the pair is active before the starter cranks the engine. Once the engine is started, there’s no need for both/either one to cycle.
  3. 58mm 24v with bypass disc, 190 degrees - 190F thermostat fully open at 207F, fan kicks in at 215F - Mopar 05015708AC Cummins 3946849 Both the above correct stats have a single jiggle pin, installed at 12 o'clock, as well as a rubber sealing ring around the flange.
  4. I'm generally not one for stacks at all on a street truck, but I think regular bed mounted stacks would look nicer than those right angles popping out from under the frame.
  5. Make sure all connectors & grounds are clean & tight. Test for continuity in the wiring. From a 2001, should be similar to a 2000.
  6. His site is performance oriented, but give him a holler (sales@dieseltuff.com) & ask him, he seems to always have stuff that's not on the web site. Ask him about spray angles/piston bowls & POP pressures for your application/intended use. Having said that, the RV275s are a Bosch injector off the slightly higher HP motorhomes, I feel they're the best stock type injectors available for the 98.5-2002 24v.
  7. It is definitely worth spending more money for a quality injector; pays off in the long run, which is what Cummins are all about. I will give Mark @ DieselTuff.com a shout out. He has Genuine RV275s in stock (there's plenty out there who sell aftermarket RV275s) as well as higher HP units in whatever flavor you want. Hand built & POP'd to your specific application, unlike the middlemen resellers who I don't care to name for the sake of civility; turnaround with Mark is barely a couple days before he builds & ships. And yep, Weston is great at what he does as well
  8. Interesting. I’m in Canada. All my 12v injectors - VE as well as P have always been POP’d 10% higher, both stock and larger/worked units. No issues starting in 0F without grids. The slightly higher POP does help with atomization. Timing, injection event and duration all play a role.
  9. I will take a gander at my tickle trunk & see if I have one. @Mopar1973Man what's the number off your PCM.
  10. Ouch. Hopefully it's just the charging circuit in the PCM rather than the entire PCM.
  11. Well, looks like AH64ID & I both took the plunge & replaced the CI+ oil with a fill of CK4 oil. LOL.
  12. Glad you tried it. Some say they have experienced better mileage; never noticed the mileage increase personally, as locked hubs + winter diesel likely negate the fan/clutch removal effect.
  13. I’m sure you meant 255/85R16 (sidewall being 85% of tread width), rather than the “80”.
  14. I find adding a second turbo muffles a straight piped exhaust quite nicely.
  15. Speaking of pizza cutters...I'll be changing the 285/75R16s on my first gen back to 255/85R16s when I have some spare time next month; in the brands I have, they're both right at 32.8". I'm right at 1800rpm unloaded on a flat at 70mph with converter locked. Stock tires were 235/85R16. There's torque galore to overcome any minor differences in diameter from 30-33", and I can't seem to keep rubber on the rear tires regardless of how wide/skinny they are
  16. Check for boost leaks, an unrestricted air filter & verify fuel pressure/a clean fuel filtration setup first.
  17. Did it come with the 1.5 DIN adapter plate & do the two factory plugs fit right in?
  18. Today I decided to replace my stainless custom exhaust with these high flow Type R Acura tips -
  19. Not as critical with a mechanical gauge as with the EV2 electronic sensor, but that write up was one of the reasons I joined this site :-)
  20. I've had good luck with the cheap $19 Summit 1/4" NPT mechanical liquid filled gauges. The 100psi gauge screwed on to the filter port has been going strong for 4 years. I killed the 30psi gauge in 2 years, despite using an Autometer snubber; Summit sent me out a brand new replacement no questions asked, even though I mentioned it was 2 years old. A short length of grease gun hose between the gauge & the snubber is what I ended up with, still going strong, here it is with barely any needle flutter when I was testing a couple different 30mm lift pump springs, a 14psi unit in this instance (I usually run 20psi on my modded VEs) - IMG_8933.mov
  21. I like running clutchless/fanless; warmup is quicker due to no air flow over the block, and vent heat is maintained nicely. I run about 200f in GA summer, and about 190f in Canuck winter. I do know folks who tow medium loads fanless, they are comfortable running 220-225f. The heater core in winter makes for a nice added system heat removal point.
  22. Interesting; I cannot contribute to info on grill covers in summer, as I only run them in winter. In winter, I find the ambient/rad air not high enough to lock the fan clutch when needed, unless there's air flowing through the center of the rad. On my first gen, I remove the clutch/fan/shroud from approx Nov 1 to Apr 1, and don't run a grill cover at all.
  23. Looks good, nice job. I'd consider making a small opening directly in front of the fan clutch, so hot air from that part of the rad can activate the clutch if needed. Go ahead & block the lower openings after you make an access flap.
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