ofelas

The shrouded torches work very well, especially deep inside the engine bay close to other wiring/paint.

Picked up batteries for a couple vehicles yesterday....

1factoryradio has the flakiest head units out there, and severely lacking customer service even within the warranty period. Been there, done that.

Pop it into a pot of simmering water & see at what temp it opens & closes. Use a laser temp gun aimed at the wax pellet or a drop in thermometer with the tip not touching the pan.

I'm in the same boat.

Forgot to get back to this issue. Check AC ripple for a failing alternator diode, and use something like a Mopar Performance P4529794 VR. Continuity & voltage drop checks on all existing cabling are a must before replacing hard parts.

MTG would meet & exceed the OE spec as posted above.

Any of you still have your factory head units? I'm looking for one.

https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/198-ofelas/ Posted to the garage, didn't want to clutter the thread up.

So we can conclude that JefflsOld's observed oil pressure is absolutely nothing to worry about, as long as those readings are verified on a known good mechanical gauge. Worth noting - as long as the minimum HOT idle oil pressure is observed, its flow across the bearings, rather than pressure, that works best for engine longevity. Kinda like boost vs airflow, but that's a whole different topic, along with the co relation between head gaskets, timing & EGTs An easy way to verify for domestic engines, whether gasser or diesel, is to pop the oil filler cap for those fortunate enough to have a fillable valve cover - if mild splash is observed at the top of the valve train at hot idle, you're good to go.

As Haggar posted above, malfunctioning/high resistance grids (would still be less draw than a correctly functioning starter) would not affect the alternator diodes, as long as the battery is in good working order & able to sustain a temporary, heavy, normal amperage load. I have a few 26 year + grid elements/solenoids on their original engines/cabling/terminal ends, and they all function rather reliably. No engine oil coated terminals either; just a light coating of Ox-Gard on metal to metal connections. I would point to bad diodes and/or substandard cabling/ends.

On the 6BT I'm driving today, cold idle pegs 80psi gauge with 5w30, 15w40, 0w40. It's 30F this morning. Hot idle at 800 rpm in D at 32F ambient, I'm at 30psi with 0w40, coolant temp 193F. In summer, 90F ambient, with 5w30, still pegs the gauge at cold startup idle, and is at about 25psi hot idle in D. FWIW Cummins specs the 6BT to have a minimum of 10psi at hot idle with 15w40.

A cost effective way to get a better alternator with 12 diodes & a 6 phase stator is the 160amp "Police package" unit used on some early 2000's Durangos & LEO vehicles. You'll need to swap it's 7 groove pulley with the 8 groove diesel pulley, and use the newer OEM style 2 prong field connector in place of the bolted on field terminal/power block. With the higher idle of a Cummins, mine was right at around 122amps at idle, and the lower end of 180amps at max load.

JD, I tried to update my user pic & signature, but can't find the options.

Good stuff; I like 14cm/.80ARs on Pee Pump engines & overvalved engines like yours, but I chose to go with a 12cm (.70AR) on my humble VE truck ;-)

2000Ram2500 - if your existing canister holds boost pressures, I would simply add an adjustable turnbuckle to the existing Holset actuator. Along with fuel limiting to your desired unloaded EGT, this would be the easiest, most cost efficient option.

JDH - thought so; those turbos work great on a 12v as well, but you chipped fellers have it good :-)

The spring gate is a good way of controlling boost on a single IF your canister turbo is non adjustable. An s300g has more flow, period, and any waste gate won't get you to it's flow levels. I'd go SXE357 in the 57/65 size, if you somehow think that a 351 won't work for you.

Hows the SXE62 working out for you?

A shout out to Ryan at BlueTop. Good product, the QR box is great, and he provides fast, Canada friendly shipping. I've pointed a few folks towards him.

Ideally, use a brass NPT plug rather than steel.

I couldn't have said it better. I'd put a locknut on there too, once I got it adjusted to where I wanted.

If you guys are using single turbo's, it would need a heavier spring than what's used on a compound turbo application. Judging by memory, go with a 60 to 100 thou coil wire thickness, and don't focus on "spring rate". Thats what the threaded rod adjustment is for. The springs I use on a Borg single/compound application are about 2-3/4" uncompressed length; not sure about a Holset application, been a long time since I used one as a wastegated secondary. I believe Fastenal may have different thickness springs available, if not, a local Tractor Supply usually has assorted springs in their discounted sale box. Right along with the Danish butter cookies. Since it works off drive pressure, either a drive pressure gauge or a finely calibrated butt dyno would give you the adjustment range needed.

First genners are real people too

Excellent info, but not applicable in the original posters case. 89-91.5 12v trucks used a grounded VR stock. No PCM controlling the voltage regulation.