I'll start at the top auto to nv5600 swap still has auto ECM

a few months ago I did fuel filter change went to prime filter realized I had no power to lift pump I needed a truck in a hurry as I use this truck for hotshotting so I hot-wired my lift pump straight to fuse block comes on with the key the grid heater has also been intermittent when it does come on it seems to cycle way faster than it usually does

Next day I drove about 80 miles to pick up a load truck was sluggish the entire way got there and then truck did not want to start unhook lift pump fired right up so from what I could tell I had a bad vp44 I also had a weeping head gasket  by the time Ipulled it into the garage it was shaking and sputtering very bad I tore it down  head was cracked so I picked up a completely remanufactured factory Cummins head from d&j machine Presed in exhaust valve seats brand new dap 50 horsepower injectors remanned vp44 new power steering pump new gearbox set intake valves at .010 exhaust valves at.020 when I was done truck started relatively easy it seems to have a Miss at idle but doesn't seem bad enough to call it a dead cylinder when I drive it down the road it seems to smooth out and run fine but I do feel like it's lacking a littlethe only codes it's throwing are Auto tranny codes because I still have the automatic ECM in it with an nv 5600 the miss that it has is almost unnoticeable at an idle you can just feel it but when you let the clutch out it gets worse and gets shaky along with the miss my intake sounds only to be described is like a helicopter thumping

Please help 

 

I feel like I'm having a ECM issue because both heater grid and lp get there feed from the ECM ¿?????¿?? I think ¿?????¿?? So I'm thinking vp could be getting bad info causing the miss

And is there any way to have a ECM tested other than the dealer

sorry for dumb questions I'm new to the diesel engine any help is appreciated 

 

Edited December 9, 20186 yr by Bgtransport624

I wonder if MYbe you need to put the 6 speed ECM in? Air in fuel and low injector pop pressures can cuase a slight miss. I’m dealing with those issues right now. 

The lift pump gets its power thru the ECM. The grid heaters get there power straight from the batteries. I am not sure whether the ECM or the PCM commands them to turn on. I think it is the ECM.

 The ECM controls idle and the VP takes over off idle from that point on. A miss can caused as mentioned above by old injectors, or air in the fuel, a leaky injector line. How many miles on those 50's? I too have slight miss that is almost unoticable, pretty sure mine is the injectors or leaky injector line. If your miss is as week is mine I would think it is in the fuel system not to include the VP.

 If the ECM is not turning your pump on that is a fault with the ECM not booting up properly. You can send the ECM off to be tested. You might check into having reflashed for a manual truck if possible. Here are some places to look at.

One thing you need to do is get the 12v power for the lift pump off of the ECM. It could be the reason your ECM failed and is not powering your lift pump.

Thanks for the reply sorry about the late response apparently I'm not getting notifications for this post so I will answer you all at once

I spoke with a guy at blue Chip diesel said that the ECM being for the auto should not make a difference she will just throw me some BS tranny codes which it does I have no engine codes all trans codes with a believe a 1693 companion code

 

 I did have another symptom today I was at a drive-through and they could not hear me through the speaker so I shut the truck down took probably 10 to 15 cranks before it hit when it did hit I got a pretty good puff of white smoke that is the only time it is done it do you think it is possible that I have a injector hanging open loading up a cylindercausing a Miss from too much fuel rather than not enough (is flooding even possible on a diesel?) I do not have any hazing while driving no excessive smoke white or black

 

and to answer your question  + 50 injectors are daps and they are brand new along with rebuilt vp44 new head gasket factory Cummins head casting reworked by d&j machine new valve guides springs seals and titanium exhaust seats the works all have less than 75 miles on them

 

If it is a bad brand new injector is there an easy way to pinpoint which one it is I have an appointment to take it in on Monday but I would rather save my hundred dollars if I can

 

Thanks for the help guys I am new to diesel I know my way around a gasoline engine but I feel partially retarded working on this diesel?

 

I did check my exhaust manifold where it hooks to the head at each cylinder with a laser thermometer as you can expect the readings were all over the place first 5 cylinder seem to be within about 10 to 15 degrees of each other number 6 was about 40 low so I'm going to guess that's my problem child but is this reliable?

 

This is the description for the injectors and pump I just installed if it helps

 

Set of 6 Diesel Auto Power 50HP Aftermarket Performance Injectors for Dodge 24 valve Cummins.  7 hole (0.008 inch holes) VCO style. Compatible for years 1998.5-2002.  Installation kit included: (Injector connecting tube removal tool/nut, copper sealing washers, and o-rings for connector tube).  new copper washers

 

Edited December 11, 20186 yr by Bgtransport624

All I can say is you need to start reading up as much as you can on these 24 valve vp44 trucks. Lots of things to learn. 

Do you have any gauges? Need to know your fuel pressure at the minimum. If you still have your lift pump on the key, you need to get it off from that source point. You need to do a relay mod, that most of aftermarket pumps come with. Or just simply buy a better pump, I'm guessing the one you have is a cheaper version. I would personally go with a mechanical one, like fuel boss. You do not want any fuel pressure above 7 PSI when cranking an engine to start. Having full pressure vp44 when cranking, will result in longer start times and possibly white smoke that you are seeing. In fact for testing purposes, put your lift pump on a toggle switch. Leave the lift pump off until the engine starts then kick it on. See if it starts easier without smoke. 

As for your ECM, I would send it in and have them fix the lift pump circuit along with whatever else could be wrong with it, be specific on what's wrong with it when you send it in. Also have them reflash it to manual transmission software that would still work with your year/make, there is some gray areas of what ECM works on what vehicle, I know that 01,02 ECMs are preferred for programming. While you at it have them enable cold idle, good feature to have but not needed especially in warm climate. 

Another important thing to check is your alternator for excessive AC current, more than likely you have some. Along with that, there is a WT ground mod tha is higly recommended to be done. 

2 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

All I can say is you need to start reading up as much as you can on these 24 valve vp44 trucks. Lots of things to learn. 

Do you have any gauges? Need to know your fuel pressure at the minimum. If you still have your lift pump on the key, you need to get it off from that source point. You need to do a relay mod, that most of aftermarket pumps come with. Or just simply buy a better pump, I'm guessing the one you have is a cheaper version. I would personally go with a mechanical one, like fuel boss. You do not want any fuel pressure above 7 PSI when cranking an engine to start. Having full pressure vp44 when cranking, will result in longer start times and possibly white smoke that you are seeing. In fact for testing purposes, put your lift pump on a toggle switch. Leave the lift pump off until the engine starts then kick it on. See if it starts easier without smoke. 

As for your ECM, I would send it in and have them fix the lift pump circuit along with whatever else could be wrong with it, be specific on what's wrong with it when you send it in. Also have them reflash it to manual transmission software that would still work with your year/make, there is some gray areas of what ECM works on what vehicle, I know that 01,02 ECMs are preferred for programming. While you at it have them enable cold idle, good feature to have but not needed especially in warm climate. 

Another important thing to check is your alternator for excessive AC current, more than likely you have some. Along with that, there is a WT ground mod tha is higly recommended to be done. 

What he said. 

X 2 on the above. Especially the key on hot for the lift pump.

Edited December 11, 20186 yr by dripley

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

X 2 on the above. Especially the key on hot for the lift pump.

The fuel pump relay is something I haven’t done. At least I don’t think. How to do and what is it?

No I do not have gauges yet

 

The fuel pump is on a toggle switch that helped with my hot start ever so slightly the pump I am running is the fast DRP series 

 

And now that you mention it my volt gauge did Spike all the way to the top for abt 30 sec or so then dropped to norm and has been fine ever since but that was after I got it back together so I just figured it was a flukesince I'd had a lot of stuff unhooked while doing the head will the ground mod help with that

5 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

The fuel pump relay is something I haven’t done. At least I don’t think. How to do and what is it?

The Fass should have come with one.

5 minutes ago, dripley said:

The Fass should have come with one.

I bought it used. Theyre is a in-line dude near the battery that came with it. Is that the same as the protective relay? 

15 minutes ago, Bgtransport624 said:

No I do not have gauges yet

 

The fuel pump is on a toggle switch that helped with my hot start ever so slightly the pump I am running is the fast DRP series 

 

And now that you mention it my volt gauge did Spike all the way to the top for abt 30 sec or so then dropped to norm and has been fine ever since but that was after I got it back together so I just figured it was a flukesince I'd had a lot of stuff unhooked while doing the head will the ground mod help with that

The ground mod helps with stray AC voltage the alternator can produce. This can also hurt your electronics. Has nothing to do with DC out put.

 

5 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I bought it used. Theyre is a in-line dude near the battery that came with it. Is that the same as the protective relay? 

My AD came with an inline fuse and a relay. The fuse for the power to the pump and the relay to control the power to the pump. It is NOT the protective relay @IBMobile mentions. I think you can just swap the relay for the protected one.

I am looking at this ground mod right now seems to be pretty easy and straightforward do you think my voltage Spike could have trashed my ECM

I was having problems well before that when I lost power to my fuel pumps 

ECM has no protection to the lift pump so if the pump locks up and the amperage rises sharply the ECM will fry. Kind of like I learned about the PCM field lead which my alternator shorted the field +12V to ground and the PCM fried internally. 

 

AirDog or FASS fuel system are a good idea. Then The W-T ground mod is another good idea.

 

 

 

So just to clarify a little bit my factory acorn lift pump locking up probably  killed my ECM 

 

 the voltage Spike could kill my PCMbut if the voltage hurt my PCM it would fry the regulator that's inside of it which would give me no volts on my gauge (correct?) So I'm guessing that my PCM should be okay

 

and this is also the reason the people are putting a 140amp fusible link on the alternator charging wire while doing the ground mod?

 

The fuse on the charge would not have stopped Mike's issue. His shorted thru the field wiring and not the charge wire. His problem could have happened with or without the ground mod.

 Your pump locking up could have caused the problem with the ECM loosing that function. Stray AC voltage can do it also. This is what the ground mod is about, reducing the ac voltage and getting the charge wire out of the harness with signal wires. It also shortens all of computer grounds and makes a better ground for them. My AC voltage dropped from .035 ACv to .01 ACv. The AC voltage can damage your electronics. To much of either voltage is not a good thing.

I am definitely going to be doing this ground mod