So to save some time I did install the rear main first ***the first time*** but due to some dunce from Oklahoma, the rear main housing had a hole that was stripped, so obviously I had to replace it. At this point I had already installed the oil pan so I tried to reinstall another rear main housing without messing up the oil pan and what do you know, the gasket slipped inside of the pan and now the pan won't come off. Instead of using RTV on the pan I used this Permatex spray gasket and it seals pretty well apparently! Any tips on how to remove it without damaging the gasket or anything? I'll leave some pics of what the oil pan gasket looks like under the rear main. If I can just forget it since it's sealed up so nice apparently that'd be cool, or just throw some RTV in there . Anything helps! Thanks!

The only thing I can think of is some sort of the putty knife. Can you just unbolt the rear part that you're trying to take off, tilt it away cut section of gasket out and use RTV only on that section

3 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

The only thing I can think of is some sort of the putty knife. Can you just unbolt the rear part that you're trying to take off, tilt it away cut section of gasket out and use RTV only on that section

It's stuck pretty good cause of that spray but idk if I I have a small putty knife but I can try a bigger screw driver or something. My plan yesterday was to just drop the rear of the pan and fix it but it wasn't cooperating.

I mean, your best bet is probably to try to carefully pry it off and get it all right, use a little bit of RTV in there and she'll be fine. 

1 minute ago, LifeRunner said:

I mean, your best bet is probably to try to carefully pry it off and get it all right, use a little bit of RTV in there and she'll be fine. 

Well I found out oriellys warranties gaskets so I ripped it up and got another for free 

Good boy

Got to remember all gaskets and seals are installed on these engines without sealant or gasket tack. This is a big mistake most people do is assemble parts and then use RTV or other products where its should not be used. The only thing on these engines that takes silicone is the gear case cover. 

Edited April 11, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Got to remember all gaskets and seals are installed on these engines without sealant or gasket tack. This is a big mistake most people do is assemble parts and then use RTV or other products where its should not be used. The only thing on these engines that takes silicone is the gear case cover. 

I only used RTV where the front and rear cases meet the block and used that tacky spray for the rest. Trying to stay away from RTV as in the past it's a hit or miss with working for me...

Edited April 11, 20196 yr by TheGreatWhite

In all the shops I've worked in they used RTV on lots of stuff and typically it comes back leaking. Like Myself I replaced the tappet cover gasket without sealant, no leak.

 

Now on my intake gasket, I used gasket tack. Bad choice. It took hell and high water to scrap that gasket off when I pull the head. Nope. I'm not going to use that again. The old OEM gasket was laid down without sealant or tack. It was baked hard and stuck to the intake but it came off with a bit of work and scraped off with a putty knife.

 

 

4 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

In all the shops I've worked in they used RTV on lots of stuff and typically it comes back leaking. Like Myself I replaced the tappet cover gasket without sealant, no leak.

 

Now on my intake gasket, I used gasket tack. Bad choice. It took hell and high water to scrap that gasket off when I pull the head. Nope. I'm not going to use that again. The old OEM gasket was laid down without sealant or tack. It was baked hard and stuck to the intake but it came off with a bit of work and scraped off with a putty knife.

 

 

I've never used any RTV on my tappet nor intake gaskets. I've seen threads of people saying to use it on the tappet on other forums, but to me that sounds like a bad idea. Only places ice ever used it, has been rear main (I've switched to the spray), oil pan on my 01 (spray now on 99 motor), and of course front case cover.

I once got an engine into my shop where the owner had used loads of RTV and it had amongst other things, clogged the oil feed to the turbo so I kinda try to stay away from it, but when I do use it it's just a thin layer. 

1 hour ago, LifeRunner said:

I once got an engine into my shop where the owner had used loads of RTV and it had amongst other things, clogged the oil feed to the turbo so I kinda try to stay away from it, but when I do use it it's just a thin layer. 

I feel like that's the case of not knowing to drag your finger along it after dispensing it and removing excess to get that thin layer you're talking about. 

Edited April 11, 20196 yr by TheGreatWhite

You get clean and dry for the sealant to stick. We use a lot silicone in resteraunts and I try to get sll the caulking done prior to the cleaning crew. Moisture gets in corners then someone caulks it and the next day I can grab it a pull the whole bead out. That aint nothing.

 

By the way, am I the only one that seals his diff covers with silicone?

Just now, dripley said:

You get clean and dry for the sealant to stick. We use a lot silicone in resteraunts and I try to get sll the caulking done prior to the cleaning crew. Moisture gets in corners then someone caulks it and the next day I can grab it a pull the whole bead out. That aint nothing.

 

By the way, am I the only one that seals his diff covers with silicone?

Haven't done one before but if it's a paper gasket I'll try that Permatex spray stuff, seems to work extremely well from my oil pan experience 

Just now, TheGreatWhite said:

Haven't done one before but if it's a paper gasket I'll try that Permatex spray stuff, seems to work extremely well from my oil pan experience 

Mine came sealed silacone IIRC.

 My intake was sealed with a gasket, not paper, no sure what it's made. Went back on the same way. Also a new tappet cover gasket installed dry on clean surfaces. Put a Felpro on it 6 years or so ago and it was leaking a smidgen. Easy to do with the head off.

Just now, dripley said:

Mine came sealed silacone IIRC.

 My intake was sealed with a gasket, not paper, no sure what it's made. Went back on the same way. Also a new tappet cover gasket installed dry on clean surfaces. Put a Felpro on it 6 years or so ago and it was leaking a smidgen. Easy to do with the head off.

Both the motors I built I haven't used anything with the plenum gasket and the intake/grid heater gaskets and they seem to be doing fine? My gaskets have held up to 29psi so hey I'm doing something right. My tappet leaks a smidge too but once I get money I'll probably get a Keeting Machining Tappet

Grey RTV here for the rear diff.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Grey RTV here for the rear diff.

I used different color on mine a long time ago, dont remember what kind and the darn thing was leaking in less than week. So I bought some gray wondering if it was better. I put bead on there and stuck the cover up there and realized the bolts were out of reach. Had to let go of the cover to get them and when I looked back the cover had not moved. Thats some sticky s#&t.

Grey is good stuff, a lot of Hondas, Toyotas use it, I had good luck with it. Black rtv gasket maker is also good. 

 

5 hours ago, dripley said:

By the way, am I the only one that seals his diff covers with silicone?

I use black on diff covers, water pumps, Volvo v/c gaskets.

I use the gray to make oil pan gaskets

 

6 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

removing excess to get that thin layer

Most people don't read the directions and glob it on thinking more is better or they don't let it skim over.  

22 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

I feel like that's the case of not knowing to drag your finger along it after dispensing it and removing excess to get that thin layer you're talking about. 

Yeah, or just overusing in general.