All my attempts to explain the 53 casting number from Brazil that affected about 100,000 blocks that are prone to crack under stress of towing seems to have failed. I have been trying to sell my 1999 Cummins but one questions that shuts down the sale is the 53 Casting Number. The original owner towed a bumper pull RV from coast to coast for the first 150K miles, NO CRACKS. I have explained that it's not just the 1999s that cracked but some 12 valves with 53 blocks and 24 valves all the way to 2001. Some blocks that cracked were 54 castings and 55 castings according to what's online. Maybe there has been more castings, who knows? Are all 53s subject to cracking? If that's true then most second generation trucks are going to crack under towing conditions. is there any light at the end of the RAM TUNNEL? Is there any information out there that I can share with a buyer that would put the 53 casting to rest? Any advice at all on the 53 block castings that would help me? Here is my add for my truck, I forgot to add that the Carrier Bearing was new and a few new parts that I couldn't remember without pulling out the mountain of receipts and going through them again. I didn't mention that the original owner towed a RV out to Oregon, Florida, Utah, and other places.          ADD: 

This Dodge is in excellent condition inside and out with 206,355 miles. Paint is great. It's a SLT Laramie. I am selling my truck because I can no longer drive it. It has a camper top included with locking rear window and tailgate. It is accident free in excellent condition inside and out. The dash is perfect. Everything works as it should. It gets great fuel mileage approx 18 mpg city and 22 mpg highway. Fill ups for the past 2 years. I have the maintenance records since new and my records since 2013 when I bought it. A/C is ice cold; power driver seat; heated power mirrors; sun visors with vanity mirrors/lights; premium factory radio; cruise control; no tears in the seats. Head liner excellent. Work done: upper and lower ball joints; gas shocks; ceramic disc brakes; bearings; rotors; new shoes; HD Aluminum radiator; new hoses; new alternator; water pump; sensors replaced for reliability; rebuilt turbo (Midwest Turbo) with upgraded compressor wheel; high torque starter; Fluidamper ($400) replaced the harmonic balancer; rebuilt ECM; fuel lines rebuilt; Interstate batteries; Blue Chip VP44 injector pump; Raptor 150 lift pump; new draw straw in the fuel tank. It cranks immediately. It is a strong running Dodge Diesel that would make a great Hot Shot Truck or a family truck for towing. I have a new Borgeson Hi Flow power steering pump ($195) and a new spare in the box PureFlow Raptor 150 ($400) frame mounted lift pump but no brackets, Call Eric at Vulcan Diesel performance online for brackets. Simply put I am physically not able to finish what I have started. It does not use oil and is seldom below a half quart low at 7,000 miles. You buy USED and begin fixing what they don't tell you, I have $20K in parts and Labor, The BUYER is way ahead of the game buying this truck. 2 items don't work, passenger side overhead light and overhead trip computer. The Bezel at the steering wheel has a crack that I put epoxy on. I've put 140 miles on it since August of 2018. GREAT DEAL

I don't see a big deal with this truck, I think it would have already cracked by now, am I not thinking straight on this? Thanks for the help

On ‎5‎/‎31‎/‎2019 at 9:08 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Not all 53 blocks will crack as @cajflynn about his 1.3 million mile 53 block and hauling boats.

 

 

Thanks Mike, I think some buyers get off base considering the number of blocks made that were 53 castings, they were found in the 12 valve Cummins and all the way up to 2001 and I saw an article where a 2002 said he had one in his truck. The thing is if you had one and let's say it's going to crack or already has, do you pour gasoline on it and lite it up or do you start looking for ways to repair it. I started out welding cast iron in 1972 with Oxy/Acetylene but in the late 1990s McKay had some cast rods that made it easy to repair cast. You need to peen it with a dull chipping hammer, good insurance. I'm sure there are some reasonable places that can do this. I've seen some individuals poor in the stop leak and keep driving it until they get a used block. What I'm trying to get across is it's not the end of the world, you deal with it. Hope you are doing great Sir and thank you for this Forum

57 minutes ago, wil440 said:

Ok.... I in a fit of madness.... after a few beers put my 2500 on ebay.uk about a month ago when I was hitting a brick wall with the seatbelt solenoid it is 4x4 but auto, my drunken plan was to weigh it in and get a 40's/50's Dodge job rated, minimum electrics, no seatbelts, no ecu's, no nowt, I was only half serious and put £15k as a starting price, within 15 minutes of hitting the button I'd had 2 messages from 2 different people wanting more info and I'd listed it as it was and not bigged anything up, I chickened and cancelled the listing straight away, yes those 2 could have been wasters who knows

£15k is just under $20k

 

4x4 here would be worth shipping over..... not sure on 4x2

Most want a 4x4 and I think it would already be sold if it was a 4x4 but some are happy on the road with 2x4 depending on application. Considering the price I STARTED at, $13,780.00 and all you don't have to deal with buying a used truck I thought it was fair

 

I think it depends where you live as well as what you will be using it for, and what your driving conditions are. For example, I live in an area that have some of the most extreme winters in North America. I drive my truck year round. For this reason, a 2wd isn't worth anything to me. But, that doesn't mean it isn't worth something to the right buyer.

Damn ... that truck is beautiful! That’s literally what I just bought except red and no camper shell. Unfortunately 4x4 is what most people go after but such a flawless truck like that should still fetch a nice price. Your not far from Florida,  specifically Ocala. The horse capital of America. Trucks like ours were made for areas like that. To pull trailers on the highway. I know people want to go mudding and what not but that’s such a rare activity compared to doing work and pulling a trailer . I’m in flat west Texas and all my trucks are 2wd. They ride better, weigh less and get a little better fuel economy. I don’t understand how accept for obvious mountainous and high frequency bad weather areas people don’t favor a 2wd . 

I have to agree with both the previous 2 posts, horses for courses but to be fair where you are and the condition of your truck I wouldn't drop the price at all that is stunning and about where I'm at price wise for my 4x4 auto and I have by no means finished fixing it, cost me £7K spent £3K and nowhere near done so converted into $ mine is high and it's still rough but we do get bad winters here every so often so 4x4

I understand you are having difficulty driving it but that truck is a keeper and a future show truck... it's even still got it's jack

2 hours ago, wil440 said:

it's even still got it's jack 

So I can get extra $1k just because I still have the jack?

 

Kidding aside that is good looking truck. Mine is not even close. I think I would stick to your price.

Edited June 6, 20195 yr by dripley

My truck still has it's jack. It sits behind the steering wheel. It's not the original jack though. Probably not worth $1000 either.

Edited June 7, 20195 yr by dave110

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Edited June 7, 20195 yr by Dieselinmyblood