So it seems this is the summer where all the problems start showing, leaking p.s. pump, passenger axel seal leak,  front brakes, and now tie rod ends. Not enough time in a day to adress it, but will be making time here pretty quick.

 

So I know there is a 4th gen conversion I can do for the t style setup, but is it worth it? I still have 16s on my truck, so I'd have to grind off a knuckle or two for it to fit right?

 

What's the price for one and who would be a reputable vendor for it? 

 

And are there any problems to worry about with the 4th gen setup? Like recalls and such?

 

Other wise I saw Luke's links has all four greasable ones I can install for about 255 bucks.

I'm sure napa has some cheapy garbage, but I've about had it with cheap parts not lasting at all.    (just replaced water pump again 2 years after  already fixing it with a new one, not rebuilt, Napa brand(gates))

 

Still running 265s on my truck too, nothing oversized that would be hard on the front end. I would like to upgrade to 17s 4th gen wheels, but that's someday in the future.

Does the first link you posted require a bit of fabricating? Or bolt right up

you have to trim to length and weld the ends on...possibly bend the crossover to clear the pumpkin.

https://www.xtremediesel.com/moog-ds800981a-tie-rod-assembly

 

What about something like this for the 01? Anybody do moog parts at all?

@Bojon, is this the one you used? It's for 2009 and up tho

2 minutes ago, Alexio Auditore said:

Anybody do moog parts at all?

 

Moog is no longer USA made. The company was bought out and moved over seas.

 

Did mine with Moog about 8 years and 250k ago and they are still good. For how long is anyone's guess. This was pre federal mogul buy out though. I have no experience with their products today.

That's the one. 

 

@Mopar1973Man I've always used moog, was brought up that way. Shame they moved.

I have replaced the track bar once since install all those years ago. Have about 100k on the replacement.

Wheb you shortened the drag link, you just cut an inch off or did you have to do any welding? Any other fab work?

 

@dripley did you do just the track bar? I have one also on the dodge, seems to have worked ok, but its bigger than my stock one and shifted the truck a bit. Had to adjust the steering wheel actually.

Just cut about an inch of threads off one side of the drag link. It worked without doing so, but the steering wheel was off 45°. After cutting I had plenty of space to adjust

BIG NOTE HERE....

 

certain parts are easier to replace if need by the parts house...i remember calling a couple to see what was more readily available...then i cut the other side. that way if i ever needed to replace the part on the road, it would fit.

 

some have had to trim the crossover (pre-00) and others the drag link ( stock height usually), some have had to do nothing.

Edited July 31, 20195 yr by Stormin08

Theres reports of track bar lengths varying from bar to bar to manufacture depending on who made it etc. Even varying in the same manufacturer 

 

Our 07 work truck eats all track bars moog mopar autozone. Itl eat them in a month.

 

My heim bars now been on now for a few months I'm watching it close.

My OEM tie rod ends lasted till 350k miles. Replaced with greasable NAPA and so far still doing great. Steering is still tight and still straight. Almost to 390k miles. Still running 1,000 miles a week. I know there is no reason to chase the upgrade ends (T vs Y steering) nor attempt to chase down the OEM original that lasted 350k miles being its no longer manufactured and I've got no lift or leveling kits so the geometry of my front axles is still correct. I'm running 30 inch tires (254/75 R16) and it reduces the stress on the joints just a bit. 

Edited July 31, 20195 yr by Mopar1973Man

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My OEM tie rod ends lasted till 350k miles. Replaced with greasable NAPA and so far still doing great. Steering is still tight and still straight. Almost to 390k miles. Still running 1,000 miles a week. I know there is no reason to chase the upgrade ends (T vs Y steering) nor attempt to chase down the OEM original that lasted 350k miles being its no longer manufactured and I've got no lift or leveling kits so the geometry of my front axles is still correct. I'm running 30 inch tires (254/75 R16) and it reduces the stress on the joints just a bit. 

Ya, I know what you mean, but my front end was rebuilt just before i bought the truck with 180k miles, with greasable tierod ends, no over sized tires ( actually had 235s on it for a while) I grease it, I dont have a lift, its mainly highway miles, and I'm now at 256k miles, with bad tie rod ends and other problems( suchbis life)

No garuntee the moog will do much better, and I may not go that route. I'm just tired of cheap crap, NAPA is just like any other auto parts store, they care less about quality parts, they just want my money. I may get OEM tie rods still, havent yet decided. No matter what route I go, I'll be getting taken advantage of one way or another, be it expensive parts, or lifetime warranty cheap parts. USA made or not, no garuntee it will be better than what else is out there. But what can you do but try it one way and hope for the best.

 

22 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

 

 

@dripley did you do just the track bar? I have one also on the dodge, seems to have worked ok, but its bigger than my stock one and shifted the truck a bit. Had to adjust the steering wheel actually.

This my 3rd track bar. The OE and 2 Moogs with the larger stud on it. The latest one has about 120k and holding up still. I did have to adjust steering wheel a bit on this last one. Truck seems centered over the cab just fine. The first Moog replacement went on with a full replacement of all the steering joints and all had adjusted. When this goes I will most likely get another Moog.

 Rebuilt the whole front end with Moog 8 or 9 years ago and it is still going strong for now.

 

This was just prior to federal mogul buying them out.

Edited August 1, 20195 yr by dripley

i understand someones desire to save cost, using lifetime warranty parts...and i agree on certain parts, but take the balljoints for example. i dont have the time to swap out bad joints for warranty...i have run the synergy balljoints for 100k miles and no issues...this is a lifted front end, with a 34" tire. i am certain overall height may add some wear, but the wheel backspacing is what kills the BJ and steering.

 

i think the scrub line of a tall tire, narrow or tucked wheel helps keep things happy.

So I thought I'd give an update.

I went with moog for tierod and drag link. 

Finally getting around to installing,  just difficult when i work and have to go to parents to work on it because of living in an apartment, so I spend a couple hours working on it here and there. I decided to check the ball joints since front end is in the air, and to my wonderful surprise, they have play (lateral) on driver upper and much worse on passenger, both upper and lower. I definitely see some of the wear on the passenger tire especially. When it rains, it pours I guess.

 

What ball joints do you guys recommend?

Spicer? Synergy? Raybestos? I don't want to be replacing these often. I've heard some aftermarket ones are bigger than stock, and require reaming them out, which I dont want to do. 

 

I went with the cheapest junk on RockAuto YEARS ago still tight. I think it was AC Delco. Got over 200k miles on them now.

Have about a year on napa ball joints. Driver side lower is getting loose. Not sure how many miles on them 30k maybe.

They are warranted but not something I'm just gona whip in the shop and change.  In a few minutes.

 

Carli ball joints might be a better option but cost alot more though saving labor/time expense.

I do all my wrenching and right now I cant afford to stop working and change ball joints. That means a machine or truck isnt worked or I'm falling behind on maintaining and repairs in other areas. 

 

 

 

My 7/8" heim track bar is holding up so far. When they do wear out its minutes to toss new joints in.

Arent Carli's 3rd gen and up?

 

Were the napas the cheaper ones they have or more expensive ?