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Just finished fitting a Isspro  mechanical fuel pressure gauge, this took 1 1/2hrs, removed the factory ash tray and the two top small bolts/screws behind were the same width apart as a cheap gauge mount I had so easy mounting and away from the pillar which I want to keep free for 3 other gauges I also slipped some Cat fuel line hose over the small plastic line for added protection in the engine bay and under the dash all the way from gauge to FP, still got to Zip Tie it all up but had to run it to check for leaks.

FP sits at 15 to 16psi at idle, I haven't driven it yet as it's behind my work van, to swap them around my work van has to go onto the road  for a minute or two so seeing as I'd had well over a UK gallon of American IPA in a craft pub last night  I'll do that tomorrow.

I did a torque stall and FP drops to 7 or 8 psi, now I think thats too low but last week when towing 9k + I did check temps of the VP and it was what I'd call warm but no where near hot. In hindsight I should have checked the tank temps and I had a DMM that has a laser temp deal on it with me DOH

 

I think I have two options here.

1. Truck has a Fass stock replacement that is in the stock position with stock lines, I could 1/2" line kit it and relocate LP to the frame next to the tank and it be not much better

OR

2. DTT Assassin which removes the LPFP from the ECM and adds reliability, this kit from DAP comes with a big line kit and draw straw

 

I am leaning towards a mechanical LPFP anyway but I'd want to be looking at the whole fuel system to figure out how to get more fuel going back to tank whilst keeping good FP and also route this through fuel coolers IF the tank was getting warm, I have a Cat fuel filter complete on the truck and I can't remember if any fuel returns go back to FF housing or tank or both but intend checking tomorrow, It's too hot here at the moment, my garden temp sensor say 44C in full sun... mad dogs might but this Englishman won't

The only downside of option 2 I can see is It hangs off of the front of the engine low down so deep water/mud etc might be a problem but then again here in the uk would I be offroading a 21 year old truck made in another country thats the size of a small house and at best parts take a while to get here.... most likely not

 

Is anyone using a DTT ???

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  • Owner

This why I love the ISS Pro EV2 series gauges. Fuel stay on the engine side of the firewall. Then just wires heading into the cab. 

 

Like my last install for @mr.obvious his turned out awesome. No fuel in the cab and no ferrels to crimp on plastic tubing all PTC fittings and ZERO leaks.

IMG950400.jpg

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16 hours ago, KATOOM said:

JIC fittings and braided stainless lines

I have all this but it was quicker to use the plastic as it Isn't permanent

16 hours ago, KATOOM said:

The plastic line is not so much the problem but the compression fittings.  Compression fittings on fuel lines is a bad idea.  Compression on metal isnt too bad but compression on plastic is never going to make a solid seal and can easily leak.  I'd rather deal with a leak in the engine bay long before in the cab because you'll never get the smell of diesel out of there and...its just to be clear that its illegal.  Like I mentioned, I did but I use JIC fittings and braided stainless lines.

It was always just temporary just to check FP.... which I now know is too low so I now won't use it unless I really have to while I get parts together to fix the problem and I won't be hard on it until fixed

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/31/2019 at 5:38 PM, KATOOM said:

Compression on metal isnt too bad but compression on plastic is never going to make a solid seal and can easily leak. 

True, sometimes you can get brass inserts so line doesn't get crushed. 

I'm using 8th air brake line tubing and push in connectors,  been working fine for 4-5 years now.

https://www.google.com/search?q=push+in+fittings+npt&oq=push+in+npt+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.12887j1j7&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

 

Edit

I ran my line in cab but used 1/2 fuel line over the fitting that's on the gauge, 8th " line is inside of it. 1/2" line is conduit. it goes out of fire wall, so if there is a leak it will leak outside 

Edited by Dieselfuture