@Dynamic This one is seeking your advice. I can't afford one of your valve bodies or a converter right now so its time for a shift kit. Transmission was rebuilt to factory specs by Cottman Transmission about 25,000 miles ago, before i bought it. Works fine, no slipping or other issues. I use it for a daily driver with occasional hauling/towing, max load of 10,000lbs. I have installed Sonnax accumulator piston, second gear super servo, billet band strut and anchor, Rostra transducer & OD/TC solenoids, Borg Warner pressure solenoid, LPW deep pan, and adjusted bands and TV cable. I do not like how these transmissions shift. To me they shift too soft. I like a trans that shifts firm to hard. In my toys i always run a manual reverse valve body or a trans brake. I don't want a manual VB in the truck but i would like much firmer shifts. What shift kit and/or other mods would you recommend? Please keep in mind funds are limited. Can't do a VB or converter at this time. Trying to stick with pan off stuff. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

I sent dynamic a message but haven't heard from him.

Probly snowed in the shop

Not in a big rush who knows when ill find time to do anything. Still need to get the lock up switch installed, air pressure gauge is hanging by the air hose in cup holder, new dash bezel sitting in garage and trying to get new fenders doors bed and tailgate painted.i really need to finish 1 thing before i start 3 more things.

Read through this

 

Why do you want a lock up switch?

 

I did the lock up switch cause all the cool guys were doing it. What I found is it was cool to play with but didnt benifit me

Youl here guys say thevtranny runs cooler with switch locked in 3rd pulling grades. I found locked is locked wether computer locked it or I switched it locked. My tranny locks at like 35 so I'm always locked pulling a grade in 3rd.

I try not to pull slower than that because 2nd doesn't lock unless the passage in valve body is blocked.  

 

So yes a switch would benifit me when I'm in 2nd towing heavier than I should be otherwise it's just a switch I never use. I actually unhooked it when my girlfriend drove the truck alot. I told her never ever flip this switch ever. 

 

Just something to think about

Edited September 20, 20195 yr by Evan

I have heard the benefits of towing locked in 3rd and also want to do exhaust brake in the future and hear it helps with that. Plus i like to tinker with things. If i don't like it or use it i can take it off. 

I read a discussion on TDR that using the lock switch without increasing line pressure wears it out faster if you are towing heavy..... that without increased pressure your still getting slippage with a side effect of greater than normal wear, since its actually designed to slip.  Oh well....what can I say except bolts go back in easier when the parts line up.

@dave110 read it thanks. This is the kind of stuff im looking for. I want to know why and how something works (or doesn't) before i do it. I want to understand the reason for the modification. I have built some 3 speed autos mostly 727 and 904, a couple 700r4's, A4LD, and my 47rh. Done quite a few shift kits. For the 727 & 904 i liked using manual reverse pattern VB or a trans brake better than any shift kit. When doing the 47rh i read a lot and asked a lot of questions and at the time the Transgo came out on top. That was 10 years ago and things change. I want to know if there are better options out there now. Thanks for the link.

I always get the impression guys think the switch makes it lock harder and be some kind of cure all.

 

I'd like to buy the transgo kit just above the tfod just to get the directions.

Switch only commands the lockup its not going to change anything other than when it happens. 

If you look around you can find the instructions for a lot of the kits online. 

I'm not sure i want to do anything thats going to prevent me from using this VB as a core. Goal is to eventually get a good VB and converter for this pig. Mayde exhaust brake also.

 

You need to drill holes and mod a few passages installing the plate and springs without modifying lock up and shifts I dont think will gain much.

 

If your tranny is healthy and shifting well you could just do springs and bump pressure without a full kit and probly increase holding power.

 

Heck throw some tractor transmission fluid in it to. Will tighten up shifts and increase holding on its own 

6 hours ago, Gregturley said:

@dave110 read it thanks. This is the kind of stuff im looking for. I want to know why and how something works (or doesn't) before i do it. I want to understand the reason for the modification. I have built some 3 speed autos mostly 727 and 904, a couple 700r4's, A4LD, and my 47rh. Done quite a few shift kits. For the 727 & 904 i liked using manual reverse pattern VB or a trans brake better than any shift kit. When doing the 47rh i read a lot and asked a lot of questions and at the time the Transgo came out on top. That was 10 years ago and things change. I want to know if there are better options out there now. Thanks for the link.

You sound a lot like me.

Now on a personal note I have a Transgo TFOD and I'm very happy with it.Sure I'd love a full built auto but 5k + another 1k to ship it across the country is hard for me to swallow. My slippage problems are gone and have been ever since I installed it in like 2011. I also have a lockup switch and would not go without. I use it for towing but like it also for pulling out to pass another vehicle. Yoy know that sinking feeling when you pull out, mash the pedal, and truck unlocks and drops a gear and falls on it's face? Push the lock button ( i use a momentary push button), roll on the pedal, and I'm gone. See Ya! IBMOBILE's idea is ingenious but way to complicated for what I use it for. But then nobody else drives my truck either. Sounds like you got a lot of work to do. Have fun! 

To say that I've been busy in the shop would be the understatement of the year! This month has been a bunch of Fords, a TON of 68RFE's, a few 48RE's, and @IBMobile's 2WD 47RE thrown in for good measure. (Shipped it out yesterday for those scoring at home...) Crazy towns...

 

There are some parts of the Transgo kit that work pretty well, and some parts that don't. There are some parts of the Superior kit that work pretty well, and some parts that don't. Transgo is usually the popular one because they've marketed it well to the DIY crowd. If I were to recommend an off-the-shelf setup, it would be a combination of Transgo (with some steps in the instructions omitted) and Superior (again, with some steps omitted), with a little Sonnax sprinkled over the top. But without the right separator plates, you just won't get all of the benefits.

What's the expected release date on your dynamic kit.

Is @Dynamic going to put out a kit? If not a kit maybe a write up with pictures, part numbers and some good instructions. Download for a fee? Sounds like a plan.

Edited September 20, 20195 yr by Gregturley

Haha well see.

 

May just a plate a instructions on a napkin

I wouldn't hold my breath on that one... 

Hey I tried

I'm willing and able with a carbide burr

On 9/20/2019 at 1:49 AM, JAG1 said:

I read a discussion on TDR that using the lock switch without increasing line pressure wears it out faster if you are towing heavy..... that without increased pressure your still getting slippage with a side effect of greater than normal wear, since its actually designed to slip.  Oh well....what can I say except bolts go back in easier when the parts line up.

If this is true has anyone tried or heard of using a solenoid to pull the TV lever open to increase line pressure? Mount solenoid to trans and use a cable or small chain to go between lever and solenoid. When the lock up switch is activated the solenoid pulls cable. That should still allow factory cable to move TV lever freely. Thoughts?

I don't know anything about it as it is just something that I read. I also ask how anyone could possibly find out that this is true without always towing heavy under lock up and then tear down the trans due to premature wear. I would still only be a clue.

 

The post went on to say that its wise to use lock up only on slowing not accelerating.