Hey there I just hooked up an OBDLink to my 24v and noticed some strange boost readings. At idle I’m getting 12.4 and at full throttle about 22.4. Is this the app not reading boost correctly or should I be checking my map and wastegate? It’s an 01 HO

On 11/8/2019 at 9:50 AM, Me78569 said:

you could troubleshoot the calculation in the app to make it right.  

 

I found what it is for a 98-00 trucks, but I didn't have a 01-02 to test the calc with. 

 

 

now how do you change calculations within the app? 

 

Also I'm gathering the parts to do a BHAF install. Coming from powerstrokes its pretty standard to use a piece of 4" pipe as a coupler and then guys install the filter minder in the that section of pipe. I see on dodges most guys drill a hole in the end of the filter. Would one route be safer than the other or just 2 ways to skin the same cat?

 

use google to look up  a custom pid setup for whatever app you are using.

35 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

use google to look up  a custom pid setup for whatever app you are using.

Gotcha! ill have to keep digging, seems like most the links to pdf and such in previous posts are dead now. 

 

Sweet thanks! I plowed through that one and a couple more. I tried one of your formulas and another one of (a/6.89747)-25.something. Both hooked up and read zero at idle but would max at 2psi

5 hours ago, Remington92 said:

Coming from powerstrokes its pretty standard to use a piece of 4" pipe as a coupler and then guys install the filter minder in the that section of pipe. I see on dodges most guys drill a hole in the end of the filter. Would one route be safer than the other or just 2 ways to skin the same cat?

 

If something broke off of the end of the filter minder, then it might be safer to have the filter minder located at the end of the air filter as it would have less of a chance for a piece to be drawn into the intake tube.  

 

 Also, you will probably have a noticeable pressure drop with the filter minder located in the tube as opposed to being located at the end of the air filter.  As the air flow accelerates in the tube, the pressure will fall, even with a clean air filter.  My '02 Dodge has a 3" pipe connected to the BHAF with an in-cab mounted analog air filter restriction gauge sensing from the 3" pipe connection at the air filter.   I see 10" of water at 2200 rpm and 27 psi boost with a new air filter  (When the gauge was located at the end of the filter housing, the needle barely moved.)  If and when I see 20" of water under the same conditions, I will replace the air filter.

 

- John

Is it normal to get an overboost code on stock tuning? I notice sometimes when I get after the truck I’ll get p0234 and a freeze frame from the OBDLink 36.85psi intake manifold absolute pressure. 

sounds like you have a map sensor that is giving up a ghost.  The stock fueling wont allow for that much pressure.  

 

however if your wastegate is stuck closed it could in theory build that much boost.

I’m headed to test the waste gate at a buddies but I’m leaning towards map cause I’m pegging at that 36.84 running empty at 80mph. Also reading 22.34 psi supposedly on the OBDLink but we know that’s wrong 

Ok dumb questions when testing a waste gate with a psig gauge is the point at which the waste gate open still 20 ish?

Stock waste gate opens near 20 psi. My after market Banks opens near 32.

Alright I turned it up to near 35 with no movement or leaks. There any good way to work on it without pulling the turbo?

Without exhaust pressure, I'm not sure you will get an accurate indication of when it will open. I dont know what the correct procedure is for doing this though. 

You can pressure thru the little hose that opens it with compressed air. I have mine a few times over the years. Should work whether you use the hose or pressurise the whole system. Fresh air and not exhaust gas pressure operates the waste gate.

 

Sounds like yours is rusted shut. Could be the actuator ormthe pivot point in the exhaust housing. You could try grabbing the shaft on the actuator and see if you can move it. If it ,ovesmwork it back forth and you ,ight be able free it up.

33 minutes ago, dripley said:

Fresh air and not exhaust gas pressure operates the waste gate.

 

Not entirely true. Exhaust drive pressure definitely aids in opening the wastegate.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

You can pressure thru the little hose that opens it with compressed air. I have mine a few times over the years. Should work whether you use the hose or pressurise the whole system. Fresh air and not exhaust gas pressure operates the waste gate.

 

Sounds like yours is rusted shut. Could be the actuator ormthe pivot point in the exhaust housing. You could try grabbing the shaft on the actuator and see if you can move it. If it ,ovesmwork it back forth and you ,ight be able free it up.

Best way to get at it to break it loose would be removing the 2 bolts on waste gate or the eclip? 

Edited November 18, 20195 yr by Remington92

1 hour ago, kzimmer said:

 

Not entirely true. Exhaust drive pressure definitely aids in opening the wastegate.

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something.

1 hour ago, Remington92 said:

Best way to get at it to break it loose would be removing the 2 bolts on waste gate or the eclip? 

The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled. 

13 minutes ago, dripley said:

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something.

The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled. 

I went out and put a set of small vice grips on the actuator rod and couldn’t get it to budge. Guess I better start hosing everything down with penetrating oil and prep to pull the turbo 

8 hours ago, dripley said:

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something.

The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled. 

Exhaust flow drives the exhaust side which compresses air on the intake side, intake air is piped to the wastegate actuator which dumps intake pressure to the exhaust side after the impellor when intake pressure gets over a set point, so exhaust only produces the power to drive the shaft it plays no part in the wastegated psi of the intake

I have, in the past, completely blocked off my wastegate boost reference hose and blown the gate open with exhaust drive pressure. Exhaust drive pressure will absolutely assist in opening the gate.