What do you guys think?

Does one have an advantage over the other?

@IBMobile is right about Amazon. I order all my filters and oil from them. Usually buy 2 or 3 packs but be sure to check because sometimes its cheaper to order multiple singles.

 When I installed my fittings i used a small drop of hydraulic brake assembly lube. 

Got started on the Fuel Boss this evening.

Very straight forward.

 

The hardest part of the installation for me is to get those harmonic balancer bolts broke loose.

Holding the alternator pulley doesn't help. Still slips.

Anyone ever try holding the torque convertor ring gear with a bar or screwdriver?

49 minutes ago, Octafish said:

Got started on the Fuel Boss this evening.

Very straight forward.

 

The hardest part of the installation for me is to get those harmonic balancer bolts broke loose.

Holding the alternator pulley doesn't help. Still slips.

Anyone ever try holding the torque convertor ring gear with a bar or screwdriver?

The best way to do that is with a ratchet or breaker bar on the balancer bolts that is long enough to hang down far enough to smack it with a mini-sledge.  I didn't even have to hold the alternator nut when I did that...the weight of the rotating assembly was enough to keep it from turning between blows.  You'll find that they break loose fairly easily doing that.  In a sense you are shocking the balancer bolts loose rather than a constant pressure on them.

 

I had the same problem and Richard gave me that advice.  All 4 of them broke loose with no problem once I did that...worked like a charm. 

Edited December 9, 20195 yr by Bullet

Finished the install this evening.

Bullet, your suggestion worked great BTW.

I appreciate everyones input on The pump and installation.

 

Fuel line routing was a bit of a challenge if you want things to look orderly.

The only thing I might regret is doing 3/8" line instead of the 1/2".

I'm not even sure if going to 1/2" is recommended with the Fuel Boss.

With my DDRP, I had 1/2" line from the strainer forward.

12 minutes ago, Octafish said:

Finished the install this evening.

Bullet, your suggestion worked great BTW.

I appreciate everyones input on The pump and installation.

 

Fuel line routing was a bit of a challenge if you want things to look orderly.

The only thing I might regret is doing 3/8" line instead of the 1/2".

I'm not even sure if going to 1/2" is recommended with the Fuel Boss.

With my DDRP, I had 1/2" line from the strainer forward.

That's good to hear.  I wouldn't worry too much about the 3/8" vs 1/2"...3/8" is plenty for any VP powered Cummins.  The main thing is that you get away from the very restrictive banjo fittings.  I run the 3/8" too with twins and a fuel box that will dump fuel into the motor and my fuel pressure is a solid 20 psi under full throttle...18 at idle.  What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing? 

Edited December 13, 20195 yr by Bullet

I agree the 3/8 line is fine, 1/2 would be way over kill, the fuel boss will keep the supply no problem. Upgrading the small 5/16 line from the fuel filter to VP is a good thing. 

Fuel pressure at idle is 17 on my ISSO gauge.

I really haven't stomped on it to check it under power.

 

Thanks for the replies on the fuel line size.

I am running 1/2" from filter to VP. 

Got rid of the banjos long ago.

 

I have notice start up sounds a little different.

It fires instantly but RPM drops for a split second.

Didn't do that with my DDRP so I'm guessing it's the nature of the beast.

Takes maybe 12 seconds for fuel pressure to hit 17psi. Normal?

 

One thing that surprised me was the FLAT on the pump shaft didn't go back far enough for the Allen screw to really seat into.

It was right in the edge - if it caught, it barely did.

The pulley and shaft shaft were flush on the outside.

Used thread locker on the Allens but I'll keep an eye on it.

Edited December 13, 20195 yr by Octafish

4 minutes ago, Octafish said:

Takes maybe 12 seconds for fuel pressure to hit 17psi. Normal?

Do you have a niddle valve to reduce water hammer, if so it may be shut off to the point where it takes that long for pressure to rise. Which is a good thing, but if you want to crack it open just to see if pressure comes up quicker, then I would turn it back to how it is now. 

If not then maybe you're draining back while truck is not running and that's why your rpm takes a bit to build up. Double check all your connections. 

I'm using a non adjustable snubber.

Probably need to replace with a needle.

When I was running the DDRP before, pressure came up very quickly - 2 or 3 sec maybe.

I kinda expected that.

 

I'm pretty confident the supply and return lines are well sealed. 

A few months back I had a siphon problem that ended up being bad injector O-rings so everything has been triple checked.

 

I noticed that slight start up RPM drop this morning as it was parked in the garage.

When I finished the install last night, I started the truck and let it run for a minute to check for leaks then shut if off - no test drive.

Maybe I didn't get all the air out of the line.

 

I'll point it uphill tonight and see how it does in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 20195 yr by Octafish

8 hours ago, Octafish said:

 

 

 

 

 

Didn't do that with my DDRP so I'm guessing it's the nature of the beast.

Takes maybe 12 seconds for fuel pressure to hit 17psi. Normal?

 

 

No, not normal, let it idle for awhile and take it for a good ride, Possable you got air in the system. It should build up pressure within a second or so.

Mine shoots up to 18 the very second that it starts...yours should too.  I agree that you might have some air in it still and just need to drive it.  Give it some rpms on your test drive so that you can test that the check valve is working properly too.

 

Another thought is that some of the air might have made its way into your fuel pressure gauge line which would give you a lazy reading.  Might need to get you a needle valve so that you can bleed it properly. 

Interesting.

I've put around 20mi on the truck so far and still get the slow pressure build.

After it builds, it stays there as long as the engine is running.

Might try bleed the fuel pressure sending unit hose tomorrow and see if that helps.

Bled the line to the pressure sending unit.

No change really.

When the weather improves, I'll remove the snubber and see what effect it has.

 

As for the snubber, strange that pressure built quickly with the old DDRP and slow with the fuel Boss.

 

Richard at Glacier Diesel has been more than helpful on this.

Their customer service has been spot on!

Edited December 17, 20195 yr by Octafish

I wonder if the bypass valve is hanging open a little, maybe a small piece of debris, just a small micro size piece of debris can course that valve to give you trouble, Just take it off your return line and take it apart and inspect and clean real good with brake clean. 

You might also check pressure with a mechanical test gauge to verify your gauge reading 

Great suggestions!

Thanks.

Bled the pressure line at the sending unit.

Pressure takes a second to build now.

 

Everyone, thanks for your help on this.