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  • Staff

 Is there a way to dry these out for good? It's been very damp around here lately, plenty of rain/fog and these have gotten worse. Don't have the funds to replace them at the moment so if there is something I could do with these for the time being to get by for a while.

 

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  • Doubletrouble
    Doubletrouble

    Right, I already figured I'd be readjusting once I replace the entire assembly anyway. Usually they aren't adjusted properly from the manufacturer. I don't like blinding people, I drive for a living a

  • Doubletrouble
    Doubletrouble

    Covering as many miles as you do you know what I'm talking about. It gets very annoying. I work night shift so my entire work day is in the dark covering anywhere from 200-500 miles a night.  I a

  • I agree that there is a good chance there is a problem with sealing.  But, headlight housings are manufactured with a vent, usually with a tiny screen covering the vent and usually located in a very i

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You will need to park your truck in a dry garage for a few hours. Pick a day when humidity is low.  Remove the bulbs and set up a fan to blow at an angle into headlight openings.  The angle is important because some dry air needs to enter the headlight assembly, evaporate some moisture, and then exit the same hole.  It will take a few hours, but it works.  If the moisture returns right away, then the lens has a leak. 

 

I have used this procedure a couple of times and it works quite well.

 

- John

Simple answer is no, the lights are cracked or are not sealed in some way. You can dry them out as posted above, but the condensation will return. The non sport headlights are pretty cheap online.

6 hours ago, Scarecrow said:

Simple answer is no, the lights are cracked or are not sealed in some way.

 

I agree that there is a good chance there is a problem with sealing.  But, headlight housings are manufactured with a vent, usually with a tiny screen covering the vent and usually located in a very inconspicuous place.  So, it is possible for moisture to get in under some unusual wet conditions even if the headlight assembly is in good condition.  If that is the case, drying the assemblies could be worthwhile.  Doesn't cost anything but time.

 

- John

  • Owner

Actually just need to replace them with better clear housings. The vents on the housing might be faulty or there is a leak in the lens face, or even a possible crack. I would just replace them if there is moisture leaking in. 

If you're on a budget, and who isn't these days, you can buff the lenses clear and try to get the moisture out of the housings. The trick to buffing them out is by cleaning the lenses, you just took off the UV protection, and they will turn yellow and cloudy that much quicker. After you buff them out, give them a coating of clear spray paint for UV protection, and they will last longer.

Just a couple of body shop tricks learned over time.

 

Mark

  • Author
  • Staff

 Have been looking at those same lights. Going to have to wait until I'm back to work though. I was thinking those assemblies with silver Star ultra bulbs.

  • Owner

All I can say is it will still suck. I've got these in my 1996 Dodge now with SilverStar bulbs and very poor lighting. I'm going to be playing with LED bulbs next to see if I can improve this. Still in all a Silverstar bulb is roughly 860 lumens and the LED's are 3,000 lumens. 

 

Just for fun... PIAA LED driving lights... These are brighter than my Morimoto D2S lights.

http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

  • Author
  • Staff

 I have considered those assemblies with an LED bulb I believe I read somewhere that LED's need a certain type of reflector or something.

 A buddy runs LED's in his factory housings on a '14 Chevy truck and likes them but I've never been in it at night myself to tell.

  • Owner

Problem is the stock housing tend to be poor pattern of light and requires a full readjustment with fresh LEDs they can be made to to work as a few here have managed to do. It is not just change bulbs and roll... You MUST readjust both headlights after the change to LEDs prevent blinding people. 

  • Author
  • Staff

Right, I already figured I'd be readjusting once I replace the entire assembly anyway. Usually they aren't adjusted properly from the manufacturer. I don't like blinding people, I drive for a living and it is one of my biggest pet peeves. I don't mind that someone has great headlights, nice and bright but put them down so I can see to! Lol

  • Owner
Just now, Doubletrouble said:

Right, I already figured I'd be readjusting once I replace the entire assembly anyway. Usually they aren't adjusted properly from the manufacturer. I don't like blinding people, I drive for a living and it is one of my biggest pet peeves. I don't mind that someone has great headlights, nice and bright but put them down so I can see to! Lol

 

I clear 1,200 miles a week. Yup I spend a good part of my morning in the dark. Like I'll be leaving here at 7:15am and heading south. I wont see good light till about council, ID. Then on my way home typically its just getting dark about the time I'm heading past Council, ID north.

 

LEDs do work there is several seal beam solutions in LEDs. It's the dumb Ford guys that retro fit the LEDs and assume the pattern is still good without adjusting. Typically they end up with the cab full lit up from my Morimoto D2S HIDs.

  • Author
  • Staff

 Covering as many miles as you do you know what I'm talking about. It gets very annoying. I work night shift so my entire work day is in the dark covering anywhere from 200-500 miles a night.

 I also live in the country so I want good lights on the way home to avoid animals. Deer vs. truck is never good.

  • Owner

Morimoto HID's... I cast light at least 40 to 50 feet in either ditch along a 2 lane highway. On hi beam I can cast light as tall as 50 feet. 

 

 

I did a swap to LED's a couple months ago in clear housings, not the ones Mike linked. The reflectors are much different. Housings and bulbs $110. So far so good.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.