This is very long winded, but I figured it would save a bit on questions in the comments, plus I tend to ramble. 
I’m not sure if this is the right place for this or not, if it is not I will be happy to move it. 
 

In late 2018 I bought a 2002 3500 with an NV5600 more out of necessity than want(wrecked mine and had to leave for a job)
it had 160xxx on the clock. A few scratches   here and there nothing crazy. It drove decent typical 2nd gen problems that I knew of non existent dash top, ac was questionable , small but noticeable oil drip. The money was right 10k I bought it. Now
I’ve always been a Powerstroke guy not a Cummins fan. So I knew little and less and didn’t care at the time as I always have a company truck and never drive my personal but on the one day off a week I get. Only to a state and home when it’s over. Plus I was just gonna get rid of it when I got home to get my Powerstroke.
I started to try and get this thing a little more reliable to make it home as this job is finally winding down. I’m averagely mechanically inclined. I knew my Powerstroke inside and out. However I quickly realized that the 98.5-2002 Cummins was as a whole a completely different animal. 
I took it to a shop for some bucking and dying with white smoke and dead pedal. 
put a 44 and a fass signature series 100gph. Problem solved except for my water in fuel light came on which sparked the last month long dive into information and knowledge to fix this truck the right way and made me fall in love with this motor and truck. I want to see it running right and fixed so I can keep it.  I finally have had time to start going through this truck(only 60hrs a week instead of 90-100) the shop did a half assed job of installing the fass system. I’ll delve into that in the comments if anyone cares. The person before me half assed everything. List of parts added that I know of. Afe cold air, Banks Monster Intake horn gasket(manifold gasket leaks).smarty set on SW9 and Revo at 4-4-4 I’m assuming he thought that was max(since changed after reading pespi71oceans write up) and mangled together 4inch muffler delete welded to the 3in stock exhaust.

I started at Cumminsforumn.com reading countless articles, write ups, and basically anything I could find as to how these motors should be cared for fixed and upgraded(the right way) which led me to finding this site, and the amount it has helped in endless. 
I have finally started to order performance parts to replace failing parts as I have found them and me being a hp junkie and don’t want to replace with stock just to turn around and buy again.
I said all of the above to ask if you all have a shop or a vendor that you order your performance products from,if you have a list not just one or two things, that will work with you as far as giving you a decent price not just Msrp of each individual piece. I do plan to order all at once not just one thing here and a month or when “I get my taxes or have some extra income coming in”. I have money in hand and know that Performance and basically anything diesel related isn’t cheap. 
 

Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks, The New Guy

 

 

Edited June 19, 20204 yr by That1Guy02
Terrible spelling and grammar fixed to make a little easier reading

1 hour ago, That1Guy02 said:

??

I really like the idea of a mechanical pump. Is it a pain to install? I need to do a little more research into because I don’t know much about them. 
I’m digging the shorty conversion. I got a buddy who is in the process of making a shorty out of a 2019 F450 single cab I’m curious to see how it turns out. 

Install is easy...hardest part is routing and securing all fuel lines to where they are safe from sharp edges, heat and/or other moving parts.  You mount the pump and crank pulley, install a coupler in your fill hose and then build the rest of it how you want it.  You're given a supply of connections and a roll of fuel line that you cut to fit how you route your lines.  You can plumb it 2 different ways...in conjunction with your current electric pump (a little more install work, unnecessary and $50 more) or straight mechanical with no electric pump in the mix (easiest and best).  I went straight mechanical so I have no electric pump on the truck.  Fuel pressure is a rock solid 18lbs and actually increases with throttle instead of decreasing like electrics do.

 

Re shorty conversion...thanks I really appreciate it!  It was alot of work but I wanted something cool and different.  What's funny is I drive it fairly often and almost nobody notices it...which is kind of a compliment in itself.  I've had maybe 5 people approach the truck at the gas station and start staring at it with a puzzled look on their face and then ask me questions like 'is that a diesel?' or 'did you build that?'  It's funny cuz I'm just as shocked at them noticing as they are about the truck.

Edited June 21, 20204 yr by Bullet

5 hours ago, Bullet said:

Install is easy...hardest part is routing and securing all fuel lines to where they are safe from sharp edges, heat and/or other moving parts

So this might be a stupid question. Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow. 

8 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

I’m on the interstate and trying to maintain a constant 75-80 and I just cringe to see the tach setting so high for hours on end.

 

I run...

• 3.55 axles
• 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inches)
• NV4500 transmission

With this combo I'm 2,450 at 80 MPH but twisting out 20 MPG. Then at a prefect 66 MPH I'm at 2,000 RPM still doing 21 MPG. Running up to 2,500 will not harm the engine. I've done it over 100k miles now and seen way better MPG from the change up. The 245's tires change the final ratio to 3.69:1 on the 3.55 gear axles. This give way more torque, so much in fact I can break the tires loose pulling my 8,000 pound RV that is 31 foot long. I'm in 4th gear (direct by 25 to 30 MPH). Even towing the RV I had a hi mark of 14.7 MPG. Avg 12.6 MPG for the trip down. The trip back from AZ was 10.5 MPG bucking harsh head winds. 

 

Even better yet @IBMobile is running the 245/75 R16 on his truck with 4.10 gear but his truck is typically strictly used for towing his RV.

 

 

Bliss, Idaho - Winds had forced me to stop for the night. 

Edited June 21, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

5 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

So this might be a stupid question. Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow. 

Yes you could but it's not needed. 

On here there are 2 camps, electric and mechanical, both work. I'm mechanical and I love it ...... rpm increases psi increases, electric goes the other way

I have had 2 AD pump failures. Thru both failures the truck still drove and the VP pulled fuel thru the AD. I can's see why the pump could not be left in the system. If the VP can pull the mechanical pump should not even know it's there. Just my thinking any way. 

5 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

So this might be a stupid question. Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow. 

Yes you can run both at the same time...without pulling any fuses.  Your electric pump will spin up before starting and will shut down once you start the truck and the mechanical pump starts making pressure.

 

But it's completely unnecessary to have both...you are just adding complexity to the setup and to the install and $50 more to the purchase price of the mechanical pump for the cost of a Hobbs pressure switch to make it all work together.

 

My truck is straight mechanical pump only...no electric pump at all.  Starts and drives just the same as when I had only an electric pump...except with no buzzing sounds.

5 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow

I think it's best if you T off the fuel line before the Fass when you run the fuel line to the mechanical pump. The installation instructions show it not going through the electric pump.  

 

Well I was mainly thinking of the added filtration, and it’s already there. I get free fuel for my personal truck but they don’t always buy the best ?. I know I know just spend the money on diesel at a station, but I have a big enough transfer tank that I can usually make it 16-1700 miles without touching a fuel station. So that’s an added bonus on the lay off and going home usually saves you 4-500 dollars. However I like the water separator of the fass and the filtration it provides. I guess I could buy a housing and make my own but it’s already there ?

Could take the innards out of the fass

Another argument for leaving the electric pump in the mix is for priming during a filter change and in case you throw a belt on the mechanical pump then the electric pump will immediately take over.

 

Those are pretty good arguments in theory...but in reality it only takes a few minutes to prime a mechanical by hand after a filter change and the belts are rated at 75k miles and spin at a very slow rate compared to the serpentine belt.  I have never heard of someone either throwing a belt or having pump problems.

 

The only mechanical pump complaint I've ever heard is trash in the check valve keeping it open.  But that only happens with extreme filtration negligence or from trash in the newly installed lines that weren't blown out properly before connected. 

I guess it’s a more of a piece of mind thing with the filters so I suppose I will decide when I make the purchase. However the the shop that put the fass in took all of my factory lines filters and lift off the block back to the tank. Only thing they didn’t do was plug off the factory wiring harness so water didn’t get into it. Called them oh we threw that away yeah sure you did you got it on a shelf gonna sell it to someone needing it.

A pump does not push, it sucks.   By this I mean as the impellers of a pump turn to expel a fluid a vacuum is formed right behind them , this is what draws the liquid to the pump.  This is also why when the vent tube on the tank get blocked with dirt/mud the fuel doesn't flow because a vacuum is created in the tank equal to the vacuum at the pump.   Most pump manufactures say to install a strainer type filter (120 microns} between a fuel supply and the pump and a finer filter (2-10 microns)  after the pump. 

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Most pump manufactures say to install a strainer type filter (120 microns} between a fuel supply and the pump and a finer filter (2-10 microns)  after the pump. 

So I’m guessing probably not? 
I could see if the fass could free flow when off where it would work unless the filters were clogged. Does the check valve keep fuel pressure from bleeding off (returning to tank)? I’m sure all of this isn’t worth the amount of effort I’m putting into figuring it out lol but now it has peaked my interest. 

4 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

Does the check valve keep fuel pressure from bleeding off (returning to tank)?

Yes it does.  This is what is under my truck.  I have the fuse fuse for the electric pump pulled and just use the Fuel Boss.  When I want to prime the system the fuse is installed and terminals #30 and #87 are jumped; this turns the pump on without turning the key to the on position.

 

  

So essentially I just need to see if the fass will free flow when not powered on? Which it should being that gdp gives you the option of leaving your fass ddrp in place and functional(shouldn’t be a difference in base design). Run the “to engine” line from the fass to the GDP pump. Then the return from GDP pump to the return on my tank. Throw a plug in the return port of the fass leave it wired up kicks on runs for a few seconds Hobbs switch kicks it off, or just leave the fuse out in the junction box in cab throw in if I need to prime the system.

29 minutes ago, That1Guy02 said:

Run the “to engine” line from the fass to the GDP pump.

No,  lower fuel line at the T fitting goes to the mechanical pump and the upper fuel line goes to a check valve then the electric fuel pump.  

This installation diagram might make things clearer.

 

I don’t have either of those. My fass runs straight to the injection pump. The shop took all of my stock stuff out and not the right way either. The sending unit is still in the top of the tank. However the put a sump in and ripped out the block mounted lift pump and filter housing. I had to plug the lines and plug off the factory wiring harness. 

Essentially my fass is my lift and sending unit, but I get what your saying I will use that fass as the “factory” system 

We have a few of the Assassin pumps on sale if you want a Mechanical pump, but not spend big $$.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dtt-assassin-mechanical-fuel-pump-with-plumbing-98502afp

 

1 minute ago, dieselautopower said:

We have a few of the Assassin pumps on sale if you want a Mechanical pump, but not spend big $$.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dtt-assassin-mechanical-fuel-pump-with-plumbing-98502afp

Check your pms I also emailed your website. 

19 hours ago, wil440 said:

electric goes the other way

 

For me only drop about 2 PSI from Idle to WOT. Set for about 17-18 PSI and stops at about 14 to 15 PSI. Very very stable. 250k miles on my first AD 150 pump after 13 years. Lots of idle time!

Edited June 22, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man